Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces all

The ever grinning Steve Monks enjoying the entertaining and tubular Magic Flute - a fun little route on Scoop Wall © Emma Alsford

Crag features

Fantastic little bay with some really quirky routes - very tidal but with some great little adventures up scoops and tubes, with a good coverage of grades.

Approach notes

Take the coastal path from Lydstep Bay, or from the east (penally army camp) take the signed footpath that goes under the railway line just east of the camp, following its perimeter to reach the coastpath - then head east.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Crash XS 5c 1
2 Whetstone Whistle E2 5b 1
3 Magic Flute
-
E1 5c * 46
4 The Scoop
-
E3 5c ** 5
5 Loud, Proud and Well Endowed
-
E2 5c 1
6 The Hampden Roar
-
E2 5b * 1
7 Marmite Cave Traverse V3 ** 2
8 Batman E2 5b ** 1
9 Mutley E3 5c ** 3
10 Buckets of Fun E1 5b 2
11 We are the lucky ones V4 6b * 1
12 Apollo V1 5b * 1
13 Hardwell V3 5c * 1
14 Scalloped Traverse V3 5c * 1
15 Greg's Roof V7 6c *** 1
16 Cersei V5 6b ** 1
17 Xanadu V5 6b ** 1
18 Parisella's Obsession Club V1 5c * 1
19 Still Giving V4 6b * 1
20 Beck Arete
-
HS 4a 1
  Jackdaw Slab
22 Don Canute *
-
VS 4c * 1
23 The Jackdaw *
-
HS 4b * 4
24 Chunky Bunky *
-
HVS 5a *  
25 Central Route *
-
S 4a * 3
26 The Link *
-
S 4a * 2
27 Resonance *
-
HVS 4c * 3
28 The Last Time I Saw Nat Allen *
-
VS 4c * 3
29 Jackdaw Pinnacle *
-
S 4a  
30 Tubeless *
-
VD  
31 Sea Tube *
-
VD 8
32 Left Crack *
-
S 4a 1
33 The Reacher *
-
VS 4c  
  Rusty Slab
35 Mepic *
-
VS 4c  
36 South West Ridge *
-
VS * 3
37 Ferric Slab *
-
VS 4c 4
38 Ferrous Rib *
-
VS 4c 2
39 Rusty Corner *
-
HS 4b 4
40 Rusty Crack *
-
S 4a 1
41 Late Groove *
-
HVS 5a  
42 Cave Route *
-
HVS 5a 2
43 Chocolate Brownies *
-
S 4a 5
44 Rain Fall, Tide Rises *
-
D  
45 While the Cat's Away *
-
VS 4c 4
46 Pollock *
-
D 1
47 Sea Bass *
-
S 4a 3
48 Whiting *
-
D  
49 Rusty Slab * VS 5a * 10
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed morris