Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

The ever grinning Steve Monks enjoying the entertaining and tubular Magic Flute - a fun little route on Scoop Wall © Emma Alsford

Crag features

Fantastic little bay with some really quirky routes - very tidal but with some great little adventures up scoops and tubes, with a good coverage of grades.

Approach notes

Take the coastal path from Lydstep Bay, or from the east (penally army camp) take the signed footpath that goes under the railway line just east of the camp, following its perimeter to reach the coastpath - then head east.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1CrashXS 5c 1
2Whetstone WhistleE2 5b 1
3Magic Flute
-
E1 5c *36
4The Scoop
-
E3 5c **4
5Loud, Proud and Well Endowed
-
E2 5c 1
6The Hampden Roar
-
E2 5b *1
7Marmite Cave TraverseV3 **2
8BatmanE2 5b **1
9MutleyE3 5c **2
10Buckets of FunE1 5b 2
11We are the lucky onesV4 *1
12ApolloV1 *1
13HardwellV3 *1
14Scalloped TraverseV3 *1
15Greg's RoofV7 ***1
16CerseiV5 **1
17XanaduV5 **1
18Parisella's Obsession ClubV1 *1
19Still GivingV4 *1
20Beck Arete
-
HS 4a 1
 Jackdaw Slab 
22Don Canute *
-
VS 4c *1
23The Jackdaw *
-
HS 4b *4
24Chunky Bunky *
-
HVS 5a * 
25Central Route *
-
S 4a *3
26The Link *
-
S 4a *1
27Resonance *
-
HVS 4c *2
28The Last Time I Saw Nat Allen *
-
VS 4c *3
29Jackdaw Pinnacle *
-
S 4a  
30Tubeless *
-
VD  
31Sea Tube *
-
VD 4
32Left Crack *
-
S 4a  
33The Reacher *
-
VS 4c  
 Rusty Slab 
35Mepic *
-
VS 4c  
36South West Ridge *
-
VS * 
37Ferric Slab *
-
VS 4c  
38Ferrous Rib *
-
VS 4c  
39Rusty Corner *
-
HS 4b 2
40Rusty Crack *
-
S 4a  
41Late Groove *
-
HVS 5a  
42Cave Route *
-
HVS 5a  
43Chocolate Brownies *
-
S 4a 1
44Rain Fall, Tide Rises *
-
D  
45While the Cat's Away *
-
VS 4c 1
46Pollock *
-
D  
47Sea Bass *
-
S 4a  
48Whiting *
-
D  
49Rusty Slab *VS 5a *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed morris