Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

The ever grinning Steve Monks enjoying the entertaining and tubular Magic Flute - a fun little route on Scoop Wall © Emma Alsford

Crag features

Fantastic little bay with some really quirky routes - very tidal but with some great little adventures up scoops and tubes, with a good coverage of grades.

Approach notes

Take the coastal path from Lydstep Bay, or from the east (penally army camp) take the signed footpath that goes under the railway line just east of the camp, following its perimeter to reach the coastpath - then head east.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1CrashXS 5c 1
2Whetstone WhistleE2 5b 1
3Magic Flute
E1 5c *23
4The Scoop
E3 5c **4
5Loud, Proud and Well Endowed
E2 5c 1
6The Hampden Roar
E2 5b *1
7Marmite Cave TraverseV3 **2
8BatmanE2 5b **1
9MutleyE3 5c **2
10Buckets of FunE1 5b 2
11We are the lucky onesV4 *1
12ApolloV1 *1
13HardwellV3 *1
14Scalloped TraverseV3 *1
15Greg's RoofV7 ***1
16CerseiV5 **1
17XanaduV5 **1
18Parisella's Obsession ClubV1 *1
19Still GivingV4 *1
20Beck Arete
HS 4a 1

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