UKC

Climbs 319
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces all

Under the Great Roof © Grahame N

Crag features

Along with its neighbouring islands, this is one of the best rock climbing destinations in Britain, as well as one of the most remote. Big, steep cliffs of immaculate gneiss in a stunning location, with some convenient smaller crags as well.

Although plenty of lower grade climbs do exist, it is generally recommended to be leading or at least pushing E2 in order to access the best of the place.

Approach notes

By boat!

The island has been uninhabited since 1912 and is now owned by the National Trust. There is a designated camping area next to the ruins and above the bay on the east side of the island.

Access to some sectors (Great Arch, Pink and Grey Walls) requires 100m abseil ropes.

Guidebooks

The Outer Hebrides offer the best climbing in Britain.
Ian Jones - 30/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lengeigh Point
2 Seal Wall VD 1
3 Too Hard for the SMC S 1
  Rosinish Wall
5 Lottie
-
HVS 5b  
6 Taxi for Tam
-
E3 6a *  
7 More Training Required
-
E1 5b  
8 The Ethics Police
-
E3 5c * 2
9 Rising Damp
-
VS 4c 2
10 Thuggy Crystal
-
HVS 5a 4
11 Squeak
-
E2 5c 1
12 The Whoop of the Aviator
-
E1 5b *  
13 No More Ticks
-
HVS 4c  
14 Ticks Too
-
VS 4c  
15 The Trouser's Last Stand
-
S 4a  
16 Oh No, Not Another Tick!
-
VS 4c 1
17 Wing 'n' Prayer
-
E2 5c  
  Evening Wall
19 Stalking the Corncrake
-
VS 4c * 2
20 Pleasant Rib
-
VD *  
21 Beach Bums
-
VS 4c * 1
22 The Loneliness of the Long Distance Toker HVS 5a * 4
23 Lazybeds HS 4b * 5
24 Late
-
VS 4c * 6
25 Early
-
HS 4b * 1
26 Later D * 3
27 37th Tick
-
S 4a *  
28 Far From the Funicular HVS 5a ** 3
29 Dice Onions or Die HVS 5a * 5
30 Sand Flies
-
HVS 5a * 2
31 Serious Smooching
-
VS 4c *  
  Small Buoys Geo
33 Time for a Cormorant
-
VD *  
34 Reprieve
-
VD *  
35 Re-tyred
-
D *  
36 Spare Rib
-
S 4a *  
37 First Groove
-
S 4a 7
38 Wildlife on Two
-
VS 4b * 1
39 Third Groove
-
VS 4b * 1
40 Spicy Mayhem
-
E1 5b *  
41 Designer Rib
-
E1 5a 2
42 Deceptive Corner
-
S 4a *  
43 Easy Over
-
E1 5b *  
44 What Doing?
-
E1 5b ** 2
45 Friends in Tibet
-
VS 5a *  
46 Lobstered Ross
-
VS 5a  
47 Left Crack
-
VD *  
48 Right Crack
-
D *  
  Big Block Sloc
50 Let Sleeping Storks Lie
-
E5 6a ** 11
51 Lifeline
-
E3 5c *** 16
52 Immaculate Conception
-
E2 5c *** 26
53 Head-Bred Ian
-
E2 5c ** 6
54 Put a Sock in It
-
VS 4c 1
55 Ammonia Topping
-
VS 4c  
56 Maverick Phenomena
-
HVS 5a ** 3
57 Wee Bairns
-
VS 4c  
58 Two Skulls in the Sunset
-
VS 4c *  
  The Bay Area
60 Rum, Sodomy and the Lash E3 5c * 17
61 Dogs of Law
-
E4 6a * 5
62 Honorary Curbar
-
E1 5b * 9
63 The Roaring 40s
-
E3 6b * 4
64 Rebel without a Porpoise
-
E5 6a ** 1
65 Rebel without a Porpoise Direct Finish
-
E5 6a *** 4
66 Rebel without a Porpoise Pegmatite Finish
-
E5 6a **  
67 The Herbrudean E5 6a *** 26
68 The Herbrudean Direct Finish E6 6a 1
69 The Herbaloner
-
E6 6b *  
70 Every Cormorant is a Potential Shag
-
E7 6b *** 1
71 BART
-
E5 6a ** 1
72 Jesus Don't Want me as a Shelf Stacker E1 5c ** 10
73 Sea An-Enema E1 5b *** 29
74 Starboard Grooves HS 4b * 3
75 It's Not the Size that Matters...
-
VS 4c  
  Shag's Geo
77 Up Before the Beak
-
E3 5c **  
78 Deflated Flight
-
VS 4c *  
79 Shags with Attitude
-
E3 5c **  
80 Cracking Corner
-
S 4a **  
81 Truly Stunning
-
VS 4c *  
82 Quartz Waltz
-
VS 4c *  
83 Butterfly Kisses
-
VS 4c **  
84 Wok on the Wild Side
-
HS 4b  
85 Stealing Beauty
-
HVS 5a *  
86 Mussel Crack
-
S 4a *  
87 Sweetness
-
E1 5b **  
88 Hunting the Gripper
-
VS 4c *  
89 Groovy Attitude
-
VS 4b *  
90 Splitting the Growler
-
S 4a *  
91 Barnacle Belay
-
VS 4c *  
92 Now It's Freda's Turn
-
VS 4c *  
  The Pink Wall
94 What the Eagle?
-
E3 5b **  
95 The Tomorrow People
-
E4 5c *  
96 Tickled Pink
-
E2 5b *  
97 Aukward Escape
-
E4 6a ** 1
98 Where Seagulls Dare
-
E3 5c ** 12
99 Raiders of the Lost Auk
-
E4 5c ** 12
100 Fondue Macpac
-
E6 6b ** 1
101 In Profundum Lacu
-
E5 6a *** 23
102 The Bonxie
-
E6 6b *** 10
103 Huffin' 'n' Puffin
-
E6 6b ***  
104 Huffin' 'n' Puffin Direct E6 6b *** 2
105 What! More Puffin
-
E6 6b *** 1
106 I Suppose a Cormorant's Out of the Question Then?
-
E5 6b *** 7
107 The Ancient Mariners
-
E5 6a *** 28
108 What! No Mariners E5 6b *** 2
109 What! No Puffin
-
E6 6a *** 2
110 Guga
-
E5 6b *** 7
  The Grey Wall
112 Amber Nectar
-
E5 6a *** 8
113 Elysium E4 6a *** 18
114 U
-
E4 6a *  
115 E-up
-
E2 5c * 1
Climb name Grade
116 Oi
-
E3 6a *  
117 Bravura
-
E7 6b ***  
118 Spit in Paradise E4 6a *** 16
119 More Steam McPhail!
-
E6 6a ***  
120 U-Ei E2 5b *** 71
121 Pirates in Paradise E2 5c ** 1
122 U-TH E3 5c *** 24
123 Mixmaster Snipe
-
E1 5b ** 24
124 Paradise Regained
-
E4 6a *** 8
  Yellow Wall
126 The Three Mantras of Hesitation
-
E3 6a *  
127 Dopes on a Rope
-
E1 5b *  
  The Cave
129 Redemption Ark
-
E6 6b ***  
  Banded Wall
131 The Swabber HVS 5a 1
132 The 36th Chamber
-
E4 6a * 1
133 No Midges My Arse E5 6b 1
134 Chockarockaholic
-
E2 5b ** 3
135 Fools Rush Out
-
E2 5b *  
136 Flight of the Wibble-Wibble Bird
-
E2 5c *  
137 Unnamed
-
E2 5b **  
138 Geomancer E6 6b *** 5
139 Parting Shot
-
E5 6a ** 1
140 Jonny Scuttlebutt
-
E5 6a *** 4
141 Vomtanion and the Three Punterneers
-
E5 6a **  
142 Strawberry Jellyfish
-
E2 5b *  
143 Archipelago
-
E3 5c ** 1
144 Ug-Spudchucker
-
E3 5c *  
145 Fat Les
-
E3 5c *  
146 Ship of Fools E5 6a *** 17
147 At the Drop of a Hat
-
E3 5c *  
148 Blue
-
E2 5b *  
149 Fuhrer of the Sausage People
-
E3 5c *  
150 Shambles E3 5c * 2
151 Endolphin Rush
-
E3 5c *** 80
152 Endolphin Direct E3 5c *** 2
153 Adenosine Tri-Harder E4 6a * 1
154 Spring Squill
-
E1 5b *** 135
155 Stealing a Seal's Gaze E1 5b * 16
156 Oh No, Norman's in Reverse!
-
HVS 5a * 3
157 Corncrake Corner
-
HVS 5a ** 3
158 Spooky Pillar
-
HVS 5a * 13
159 Oatcakes for Lunch E1 5b ** 3
160 Wee Hottie
-
E1 5b *  
161 Hyper Ballad
-
E2 5c ** 11
162 Mollyhawk
-
E1 5b ** 13
163 The Posture Jedi
-
E2 5c ** 7
164 A Horizontal Desire
-
E2 5c *  
165 Stretch It Out
-
VS 4c *  
166 Warm Up
-
S 4b *  
167 One Foot in the Grave
-
VS 4c ** 1
168 Run Daftie Run
-
E1 5b **  
169 Squat Thrust
-
HS 4b *  
170 Squat Thrust (Right Finish)
-
HVS 5a **  
171 Prominent Nasty-Looking Offwidth Groove
-
E2 5b **  
172 Blo' na Gael HVS 5a * 4
173 Wind Against Tide
-
E1 5b ** 1
174 Wind Against Tide (Right Start)
-
E1 5b **  
175 Tide Race
-
VS 4b ***  
176 Cup Final
-
VS 5a *  
177 Stiff Upper Lip
-
VS 4c *  
178 Stiff Briese
-
VS 4c **  
179 At Last
-
VS 4c *  
180 Bald Eagle
-
VD *  
181 Partial Bastard E3 6a * 4
182 Raindance E1 5b * 1
183 Beast It Like a Kipper
-
VS 5a *  
184 Silver Fox
-
HS 4b ** 6
185 Treasure Island
-
VS 4b *  
186 Grey Cossack
-
VS 4c * 3
187 The Curious Bulge
-
HVS 5a 7
188 Yob and Yag go Climbing - Part 2 E2 5b ** 8
189 Shags and the City HVS 5b * 3
190 Shags Direct E1 5c ** 1
191 The Elephant of Surprise
-
HVS 5a ** 5
192 Redundancy Man
-
HVS 5a *** 27
193 Bye Bye to the Widows
-
HVS 5b *** 25
194 Shipping Views
-
E1 5c * 4
195 Off Wid Emily's Bikini
-
E2 5b ** 4
196 Cereal Killer
-
HVS 5b ** 3
197 Geovah's Tickness HVS 5b 1
198 Ice Box Prose
-
HVS 5a *  
199 Wine Box Chimney
-
E1 5b *  
200 Corn Choked Corner
-
HVS 5a ** 2
201 Apathetick VS 4c 1
202 The Dip of Doom HVS 5a 1
203 Refrigerator Poetry
-
HVS 5a **  
204 Muses from Afar
-
VS 4c * 2
  The Galley
206 Washed Out Yummicks on the Road to Transition HVS 5a ** 2
207 Squidge
-
D  
208 Squiggle
-
S 4a  
209 Absolution
-
E1 5b ** 2
210 The Hatman
-
VS 4b  
211 Retreat Unthinkable!
-
E1 5a  
212 Yob and Yag Go Climbing
-
HVS 4c * 2
213 The Complete Works
-
S 4a * 8
214 Anthology Arete
-
HVS 5a * 2
215 The Abridged Version
-
S 4a * 3
216 Wiggly Wall
-
HVS 5a *** 41
217 Wu-Tang Forever
-
E1 5b * 6
218 Conch Corner
-
HVS 5a * 1
219 Winos in a Barren Land
-
E3 5c **  
220 Wu-Tang Will Survive
-
HVS 5a * 3
221 The Engine Room
-
VS 4c  
  The Poop Deck
223 Poop
-
VD * 4
224 One Last Look
-
E4 6b **  
225 101 Damnations
-
E7 6b ***  
226 The Raven
-
E5 6a *** 27
227 Thursday's Setting Sunrise
-
E5 6a ** 8
228 Don't Fool Yourself Girl
-
E4 6b * 1
229 Bogus Asylum Seekers
-
E3 6a *** 17
230 Corncrakes For Breakfast
-
E2 5c *** 84
Climb name Grade
231 The Stowaway
-
S 4a * 4
232 Incommunicado
-
E2 5c * 20
233 Pause for Jaws
-
E2 5c ** 22
234 Human Cargo HS 4b * 38
235 Geovannie E1 5b ** 42
236 Pabbarotti
-
E1 5b ** 33
237 The Immigrant
-
HS 4b * 14
238 Notorious BIG
-
E3 6a *** 30
239 Wetter Than a Day at the Beach
-
E1 5b *** 71
240 Who Shot RJ
-
E2 5c ** 39
241 Illegal Alien
-
HVS 5a ** 65
242 The Craik
-
E3 6a *** 38
243 In the Pink
-
E2 5b ** 8
244 Castlebay Castaway
-
VS 4c * 4
245 Party Kitchen
-
E2 5c ** 1
  The Great Arch
247 Full Fathom Five
-
E2 5c * 1
248 Northumbrian Rhapsody
-
E5 6b ** 1
249 Child of the Sea E5 6b *** 5
250 Hebridean Overtures
-
E5 6b ***  
251 Sturm und Drang
-
E5 6b *  
252 The Priest
-
E1 5b *** 81
253 Prophecy of Drowning
-
E2 5c *** 134
254 The Breath of Life E3 6a *** 1
255 The Great Arch
-
E8 6c ***  
256 Crash Course
-
E6 6b *** 1
  Bouldering Cliff
258 The Obvious Line VD * 1
259 Not So Obvious S 4a * 1
260 Stating the Obvious HS 4b ** 1
261 The Thumbler E2 6a ** 1
262 The Shrinking Men E1 6a * 1
  The Headwall
264 Leftie
-
VS 4c ** 1
265 Das Ist Doch die Situation Heir
-
S 4b *  
266 Es Gibt Reis Baby
-
HVS 5b ** 2
267 Katzenklo
-
VS 5a 2
268 Geniestreich
-
S 4b *  
269 Chilly Dick
-
VS 5a * 2
270 Telephonmann
-
S 4a *  
271 Pat and Patachon
-
S 4b *  
272 Orang Utang Klaus
-
S 4b *  
273 Snipe Corner
-
S 4a  
274 Shortbread Fingers
-
S 4b * 1
  An Cearcall
276 Nothing to Declare
-
VD *  
277 Customs and Exercise
-
E1 5b *  
278 Prophecy of Paddling
-
E1 5b *  
  Palm Tree Wall
280 One Armed Bandit
-
VS 5a  
281 The Missing Arm
-
VS 4c  
282 Afternoon Showers
-
E1 5b *  
283 Thirty Metre Cheese Course
-
HVS 5a *  
284 Barra Crack
-
VS 5a  
285 The Frailty of Life E2 5c ** 1
286 Ta Mo Chridhe
-
S  
287 Black Guillemot
-
VS 4b *  
288 Mr Dressup
-
S 4a  
  Allanish Walls
290 15 Minutes of Fun
-
E1 5b ** 2
291 Zen Left-Hand
-
E2 5b **  
292 Zen and the Art of Corncrake Management
-
E3 5c **  
293 Zen Direct
-
E4 6a **  
294 Wee Free
-
VD ** 2
295 Corncrake Chorus
-
HS 4b ** 1
296 Escape from Allanish M ** 2
297 The Cruel Sea
-
VS 4c **  
298 Ripple Slab
-
S 4a **  
299 Un-named
-
VS 4c **  
  Hoofer's Geo
301 Wee Bill
-
S 1
302 More Whine and Whiskey
-
HS 1
303 Tick Tack Toe
-
VS 4c * 1
304 Boosh
-
E5 6a ** 1
305 Harry Hoofter
-
E2 5c * 1
306 Bint There Dun It E1 5b ** 39
307 Hoofer's Route
-
E1 5b *** 56
308 The Ramp
-
HS 4b ** 18
309 Skuaed HS 4b * 1
310 Cast and Shadow
-
HVS 5a * 4
311 Right Chimney
-
VD *  
312 Hypnotise
-
HVS 5a ** 34
313 Ankle Wrapper E2 5c 1
314 Fracture Clinic
-
E2 5c ** 40
315 Squeeze Job
-
HVS 5a * 9
316 Rite of Passage
-
E4 6a * 2
317 Honey Trap
-
E6 6a **  
318 More Lads and Molasses
-
E5 6a ** 6
319 Fear an Bhata
-
E4 6a ** 1
320 As Sound as Mr JA
-
E2 5b ** 26
321 JA's Maelstrom
-
E4 5c * 4
322 Sugar Cane Country
-
E4 6a *** 66
323 Brother Ray
-
E5 6b ** 3
324 Vitrified Cinders
-
HVS 5b ** 7
325 Buckets for Breakfast
-
HVS 4c ** 20
  Hoofer's Headland (The Box)
327 Tick-tack
-
VS 4c 1
328 Another Tick
-
HVS 5a 1
329 Double Tick
-
E1 5c 1
  Small Box Geo
331 Midget Gem
-
D * 1
332 Just a Tick
-
HS 4b * 1
333 Windy Corner
-
HS 4b *  
334 Sudden Squall
-
E2 5c *  
335 Riff-Raff-Roof
-
HVS 5b * 1
336 Headless Duck
-
E1 5b *  
  Squall Wall
338 Squall Wall
-
HS 4b *  
339 Tempest
-
VS 4c * 1
340 Eliminator
-
HVS 5a *  
341 Zephyr
-
HVS 5a *  
342 Soggy Cornflakes
-
E3 5c 1
343 Organised Band of Showers HVS 5b ** 1

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