Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces NW

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gritstone gorilla, E3, Keith Phizacklea © the clamp

Access Advice

 Choughs are nesting here again in 2019, so the seasonal restriction will be in place on the whole of  Lower St Tudno's crag until July 15th. Signs are in place on the approach path to advise of this.

The approach path and belays at the base of the routes are very exposed and on a steep grass slope above a considerable drop - make sure the belayer is tied on (there are belay bolts along the base of the crag) and that the rope is long enough as many routes are longer than 30m. There have been very tragic accidents here in the past due to belaying/rope length issues.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal restrictions are in place until July 15th for 2019.

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Guidebooks

Bring super-glue. The old guide book recorded most of the routes on the upper tier as loose, and they weren't joking!
Pete_Frost - 20/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Tier
2 I'm Spartacus 6c ** 4
3 The Strange Man
-
E3 6a  
4 No, I'm Spartacus 6b+ ** 15
5 The Groove
-
S 4a 5
6 Rachael 6a+ * 11
7 The Corner
-
VS 4b 5
8 Ankle Attack
-
E3 6a 2
9 The Ramp
-
S 4a 2
10 Julie's Jump E3 6a  
11 Chimney Crack
-
HS 4b 8
12 Human Erosion
-
HVS 5a 3
13 Noggin the Nog E2 6a 3
14 Paws
-
E1 5b * 8
15 So long and thanks for all the fish E5 6a/b ** 1
16 Gritstone Gorilla
-
E3 5c *** 49
17 Gritstone Gorilla Direct
-
E4 5c ** 10
18 Limestone Lemur
-
E2 5c ** 22
Climb name Grade
19 Goliath
-
E3 6a * 3
20 Tales Of Future Past E4 6c *  
21 Puerto Rican Harlem E4 6c * 1
22 Project "Stupid" Project  
23 Fatty 7c+ * 1
24 Rest and be Thankful 6b * 22
25 And All Hell Broke Loose 6b * 13
26 Fool's Paradise
-
E2 5b 1
27 Pile Driver
-
6a * 27
28 Thank You Johnny 6a+ 16
  Lower Tier - Main Cliff
30 Weird Blue Fish
-
6c * 2
31 The Hanging Flake
-
6b+  
32 Frack Off
-
6a+ 3
33 A Night to Remember
-
6b * 11
34 A Grand Day Out
-
6a+ * 12
35 Youf
-
6b 6
36 New Tricks
-
6b * 11
Climb name Grade
37 Old Dogs
-
6a+ * 13
38 Ivy Wall
-
E2 5b * 1
39 Ivy Wall Direct E5 6a *  
40 Man on the Run
-
E4 6a  
41 Freudian Slip
-
E1 5c  
42 Freudian Slip Direct
-
E3 6a *  
43 The Paranoid Schizoid
-
E5 6c  
44 Fugitive E2 5c * 2
45 For Girls Who Grow Plump in the Night
-
E5 6b **  
46 Trail of Tears
-
6b+ * 7
47 Boys Dont Cry
-
6c+ * 4
48 Crying Game
-
7b  
49 Red Orange Glow
-
7a  
50 The Thick of It
-
6c+  
51 Oceanside
-
E2 5c ** 8
52 Red October E3 5c * 2
53 Speed Livin'
-
E2 5b 4
54 Life in the Slow Lane 6a+ 2

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