Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces NW

gritstone gorilla, E3, Keith Phizacklea © the clamp

Restricted Access

 Choughs are nesting here again in 2016, so the seasonal restriction is now in force on the whole of  Lower St Tudno's crag . Signs will be placed on the approach path to advise of this.

The approach path and belays at the base of the routes are very exposed and on a steep grass slope above a considerable drop - make sure the belayer is tied on (there are belay bolts along the base of the crag) and that the rope is long enough as many routes are longer than 30m. There have been very tragic accidents here in the past due to belaying/rope length issues.


Bring super-glue. The old guide book recorded most of the routes on the upper tier as loose, and they weren't joking!
Pete_Frost - 20/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2I'm Spartacus6c **2
3No, I'm Spartacus6b+ **6
4Rachael6a+ *6
5the groove
S 4a 5
6the corner
VS 4b 2
7the ramp
S 4a 2
8chimney crack
HS 4b 4
9human erosion
HVS 5a 3
E1 5b *6
11So long and thanks for all the fishE5 6a/b **1
12Gritstone Gorilla
E3 5c ***41
13Gritstone Gorilla Direct
E4 **6
14Limestone Lemur
E2 5c **18
E3 6a *2
16Tales Of Future Past
E4 6c * 
17Puerto Rican Harlem
E4 6c *1
18Rest and be Thankful
E2 5c *3
19And All Hell Broke Loose
E2 5c * 
20Fool's Paradise
E2 5b 1
21Pile Driver
E1 5b *10
23Weird Blue Fish
6c *1
24Frack Off
6a+ 3
25A Night to Remember
6b *8
26A Grand Day Out
6a+ *8
27Life in the Slow Lane6a+ 2
28The Hanging Flake
6b 3
30New Tricks
6b *6
31Old Dogs
6a+ *10
32speed livin'
E2 5b 3
33Red OctoberE3 5c *2
E2 5c **5
 Moved climbs 
E2 5c 10
37The Tern
6c+ 4
38Silent Voices
E2 5c 5
39The Unforgiven
7a 1
40Ivy Wall DirectE5 6a * 
41The TorchE4 6a **6
42FugitiveE2 5c *1
43Ankle Attack
E3 6a 1
44Trail of Tears
6b+ *3
45Boys Dont Cry
6c+ *1
46Crying Game
47Red Orange Glow
48The Thick of It
49The Paranoid Schizoid
E5 6c  

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