Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces NW

gritstone gorilla, E3, Keith Phizacklea © the clamp

Access Advice

 Choughs are nesting here again in 2017, so the seasonal restriction is now in force on the whole of  Lower St Tudno's crag . Signs are in place on the approach path to advise of this.

The approach path and belays at the base of the routes are very exposed and on a steep grass slope above a considerable drop - make sure the belayer is tied on (there are belay bolts along the base of the crag) and that the rope is long enough as many routes are longer than 30m. There have been very tragic accidents here in the past due to belaying/rope length issues.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal restrictions are in place for 2017.
Bring super-glue. The old guide book recorded most of the routes on the upper tier as loose, and they weren't joking!
Pete_Frost - 20/Nov/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Tier
2 I'm Spartacus 6c ** 3
3 The Strange Man
-
E3 6a  
4 No, I'm Spartacus 6b+ ** 9
5 The Groove
-
S 4a 5
6 Rachael 6a+ * 8
7 The Corner
-
VS 4b 2
8 Ankle Attack
-
E3 6a 1
9 The Ramp
-
S 4a 2
10 Julie's Jump E3 6a  
11 Chimney Crack
-
HS 4b 4
12 Human Erosion
-
HVS 5a 3
13 Noggin the Nog E2 6a 2
14 Paws
-
E1 5b * 7
15 So long and thanks for all the fish E5 6a/b ** 1
16 Gritstone Gorilla
-
E3 5c *** 46
17 Gritstone Gorilla Direct
-
E4 5c ** 10
18 Limestone Lemur
-
E2 5c ** 18
19 Goliath
-
E3 6a * 2
20 Tales Of Future Past E4 6c *  
21 Puerto Rican Harlem E4 6c * 1
22 Project #1 Project  
23 Project #2 Project  
24 Rest and be Thankful 6a+ * 9
25 And All Hell Broke Loose 6a+ * 3
26 Fool's Paradise
-
E2 5b 1
27 Pile Driver
-
6a * 17
28 Thank You Johnny 6a+ 6
  Lower Tier - Main Cliff
30 Weird Blue Fish
-
6c * 1
31 The Hanging Flake
-
6b+  
32 Frack Off
-
6a+ 3
33 A Night to Remember
-
6b * 8
34 A Grand Day Out
-
6a+ * 8
35 Youf
-
6b 3
36 New Tricks
-
6b * 6
37 Old Dogs
-
6a+ * 10
38 Ivy Wall
-
E2 5b *  
39 Ivy Wall Direct E5 6a *  
40 Man on the Run
-
E4 6a  
41 Freudian Slip
-
E1 5c  
42 Freudian Slip Direct
-
E3 6a *  
43 The Paranoid Schizoid
-
E5 6c  
44 Fugitive E2 5c * 1
45 For Girls Who Grow Plump in the Night
-
E5 6b **  
46 Trail of Tears
-
6b+ * 3
47 Boys Dont Cry
-
6c+ * 1
48 Crying Game
-
7b  
49 Red Orange Glow
-
7a  
50 The Thick of It
-
6c+  
51 Oceanside
-
E2 5c ** 7
52 Red October E3 5c * 2
53 Speed Livin'
-
E2 5b 3
54 Life in the Slow Lane 6a+ 2
  Moved climbs
56 Teal
-
E2 5c 13
57 The Tern
-
6c+ 5
58 Silent Voices
-
E2 5c 8
59 The Unforgiven
-
7a 1
60 The Torch E4 6a ** 5

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ally Smith