Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NW

James working the cave roof project at the Toll Road Crags. © Beastly Squirrel

Crag features

Toll Road crags are a selection of limestone buttresses, walls caves and overhangs found in several small sectors spread out along the Weston Super Mare to Sand Bay coastal Toll road. The rock is solid and often pleasingly wave smoothed, and provides a variety of powerful and interesting problems. The locations are surprisingly secluded with great views out to sea. The majority of the bouldering is only affected by 9m+ tides, the 2nd highest in the world.

Credit should go to Dan Savory for discovering and developing the area.

Thanks to EsotericBouldering.com for the info!

Approach notes

Drive to Weston-super-mare and head for the sea front and keeping the pier to your left,follow this road for about three miles past a newsagents on your right and a row of hotels on your left. Past these hotels the road bends to the right and up a small gradient about twenty yards to a t junction. turn right at the junction and about thirty yards down on the left is a little cafe,parking is a bit awkward so try to park safley as possible.

Cafe Sector: Park by cafe. Walk through cafe gardens down to beach.

Metal Steps Sector: Park in the first obvious lay bye on and walk down to fishing ledge, then down metal steps.

Fisherman's Ledge Sector: As for metal steps sector but walk east along the beach to the caves (5mins walk)

Lone Cave/Paul's Wall: Either access from metal steps and walk east (about 15-20mins walk) OR park in large wooden lay bye further up the road, walk along path along road then scramble down to another fishing ledge and walk west.

Little Cove: As for Lone Cave but walk east for 5mins.

Vector Slab: As for Lone Cave but walk east for 10mins.

ADVICE: It's easier and quicker to walk on the sand 10m away from the rocks then right up close to the rocks. Check the tide times before heading out.

Guidebooks

I have driven a lot of miles ,to a lot of crags and this is the worst one I have been to !! couldn't really locate one decent route. unless you live 5 miles away don't waste your time going here !!
chudders1 - 31/Oct/16
A little too esoteric for me. Lots of bugs and crabs along with wet rock. Maybe visited at the wrong time. Shame though a few problems looked good but take more than one boulder mat for bad landings!
megamonkeyman - 16/Sep/14
No problem, just organised the problems and added some access notes to each section. Also tweeked the grades so all should be accurate now, anyone wants them changed just message me via email/facebok/twitter/blog or whatever.
Beastly Squirrel - 23/Jun/13
Thanks for becoming the moderator James, I am sure we will get a more accurate order for the problems etc. now its under your stewardship.
tombeasley - 18/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cafe Sector
2 Salt and Vinegar f6A+ * 1
3 Bacon and Chips f7B *** 1
4 Fish and Chips f7B ** 3
5 Egg and Chips f7A+ * 1
6 Block Party f6A+ * 2
7 Forced Entry f7B * 1
8 Tide of Screams f7C 1
9 The hand of Justice f6A * 3
10 Sloper Magic f6C * 1
11 Cider Press f6C  
12 The Erection
-
f4+ * 5
13 Death or Glory f6C+  
  Metal Steps Sector
15 The Tunnel Roof f6A+ 1
16 Castle on a cloud f6B+ ** 1
  Fisherman's Ledge Sector
18 Guiness for Strength f6B+ *** 1
19 London Pride * f4 1
20 Spitfire f7A ** 7
21 Spitfire SDS f7B+ ** 3
22 The Tigers Nose f6A+ * 7
23 King Cobra f6A ** 8
24 Special Brew
-
f3+ 3
25 Golden Glory
-
f6A 1
26 Old Peculiar f6A+ * 1
27 Out of the stink and into the pink f6B * 1
  The Lone Cave / Paul's Wall
29 Blood, Sweat 'n Tears f6C * 4
30 Paul's Problem f6A+ 1
31 Fifty Per Cent Pain f6C ** 3
32 One Hundred Percent Pain f7A+ *** 5
33 Lone Ranger f7C+ * 3
34 The Pillar Project f7B *** 1
35 Cloudy f6A+ *  
36 Cloudy Left f6B  
  Little Cove Sector
38 My Religion f7B *** 7
39 Desperate Dan f7A * 6
40 Double Chin f6A * 4
  Vector Slab Sector
42 Vector f5+ *  
43 HMS Vectory f7B * 3
44 HMS Vectory - Portside f7B+ 1
45 Newquay Brown * f5+ 1
46 Ker Chang * f6A * 1
47 Tanglefoot * f6B+ * 1
48 Attack of the Silverfish * f6A 1
49 Lilo * f5 1
50 The Prow * f5+ 1
51 A Quest to Far * f6A 1
52 Bird on a Wire * f7C * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Beastly Squirrel