Climbs 102
Rocktype Limestone

How a friday should always be spent © kieranrex

Crag features

Two walls of solid limestone (30m high), one clean, high-quality solid overhanging, full of sportroutes, the other slightly more dirty and vegetated. A convenient bridge spans the Gorge, useful for photography.

There's a small crag below the gorge right next to the river with a few easier pitches.

Approach notes

Start at the T-junction at the west end of the village of Pantymwyn (SJ192646); follow the farm access road down to the west, marked as a public footpath. Go through a gate to the bottom of the hill, then leave the road at the sharp left hand bend and continue straight across a stile. Follow the path for 50 meters and the Gorge will come into view.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
The lovely fence is still there! Right in the way!
Jamie Taylor - 18/Jul/16
Went there at the weekend to boulder but they have put a fence up it doesn't say you can't boulder, but the fence is right where you want your pad
GouldHarry - 04/Jul/16
A large piece of rock with a jug for Firestarter on it has become loose and visibly moves when weight is put on it, my advice is steer clear.
Alastair McWilliam - 14/Jun/15
"The BMC have been in contact with the landagent over access to the gorge. The current position is that the owner permits a commercial abseiling company to use the gorge, but has not banned access for recreational climbers." Taken from BMC RAD 12MAY09
dafrob - 12/May/09
Further to Allanís comments: Access has been lost to the Gorge. The situation is currently in the hands of solicitors who are acting in the interests of the land owner. At this stage, the potential for climbers gaining access in the future is unclear. Until all the legal angles have been addressed and possibilities for potential climbing access discussed, please don't aggravate the situation by climbing / trespassing within the fenced area. No developments are expected within the next 1 - 2 months. Check here or the BMC website for updates. The lower bouldering areas adjacent to the river are un-effected by the restrictions. Note: The Gorge and surrounding area form part of a SSSI.
John Elcock - 01/Sep/07
please note the local landowner has now restricted access to the crag and all the caves along the river they are all fenced and gated you have to contact a solicitor in chester to gain access cheers allan shaw
ashaw - 10/Aug/07
About one and a half miles NW if you follow the Leete path toward Rhydymwyn, crosssing Trial hill,(road) there is a disused quarry - good for abseiling. TK (Ex Pantymwyn.)
Anthony King - 28/Jun/06
Don't go there at weekends unless you like competing with massive groups of abseilers!
CENSORED - 05/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wall
2 Ladywriter HS 4
3 Portobello Belle HS 4
4 A Brown Shade of Lime VS 4c 4
5 Single Handed Sailor HVS 4c 3
6 Follow Me Home E1 5a * 5
7 Angel of Mercy E2 5a * 4
8 Grey Tripper E2 5a  
9 News HVS 4c 2
10 Where We Going HS 7
11 Great Slab Girdle HVS 5a 4
12 Cave Wall E4 6a 2
  Main Wall
14 Echoes 7a+ * 28
15 Echoes Extension Project  
16 The Mark of Zorro 7b * 3
17 Underworld 7c ** 17
18 Hades 8a+ *** 6
19 Born Slippy 7c+ *** 3
20 Cerberus 8a *** 5
21 Grand Canyon 7b+ *** 109
22 Canyonlands 8a *** 12
23 Beetroot & Creatine 8a *** 2
24 Devil's Haircut 7c *** 20
25 Broccoli and Ice-Cream 7b ** 61
26 An Ivory Smile 7c * 2
27 The Ten Year Fog 7c ** 7
28 Ten Year Banana 7b+ ** 2
29 Bananas and Coffee 7a+ * 62
30 What's in a Word 7a+ * 2
31 Fairtrade 7b+ * 4
32 Trade Fair 7b+ * 1
33 Uhu 6b 10
34 Communique
-
E4 5c 1
35 La Porte de l'Enfer 7b+ * 7
36 Comfortably Numb 7a+ 2
  Under the Bridge
38 Proctor Tribute Traverse f7B+ ** 1
39 Under the Gate f6B+ ** 10
40 Under the Bridge SS f7C ** 1
41 Under The Bridge f7B+ *** 17
42 La Porte de l'Enfer SS f6C * 6
43 Broken Bones f7B ** 2
44 Spearfish f7A ** 5
  Robert Duvall Buttress
46 Wheel Of Strife f7A+ ** 1
47 Caress The Marmot V5 * 2
48 Front Range V7  
49 Robert Duvall (Lefthand) V6 * 2
50 Robert Duvall V6 ** 37
51 Duvall Warm Up V3 5
52 July Rain V6 *** 33
  Main Bouldering Cave
54 Owl's hollow V2 7
55 Owl Eliminate f6B 5
56 The Healer f6B+ ** 24
57 Faith Healer Variation f7A * 19
58 Faith Healer f7B+ ** 4
59 Spinal Tap V11 *** 1
60 Under Pressure V11 **  
61 Fat Bottomed Girls V11 **  
62 Be Ruthless V9 * 31
63 Be Ruthless Sit Start V10 ** 16
64 Join The Dots f8A ***  
65 Sunset Sit Start f7C+ **  
66 Panty's Down f7A+ ** 98
67 Pantys Down Sit Start f7B ** 43
68 Thug Mentality V8+ ** 26
69 Thug Mentality Sit Start
-
V9 ** 10
70 Mental Extension V8 * 14
71 Mental Extension Extension V8+ ** 4
72 Guth Mentality V8 ** 6
73 Thug Mental Sit Start f7C+ 1
74 Thug Mental f7C+ *** 6
75 The Pantymwyn Traverse V11 ** 3
76 Yellow Finish V10 ** 1
77 Spark's V10 ** 8
78 Sparks Stand-Start f7A+ 9
79 Ignition V10 ** 1
80 Grinnin' in your Face f7B ** 2
81 Pyrotechnique V8 ** 9
82 Flamethrower f7B ** 4
83 Fire Breather f7C 3
84 Gasoline Straight Up V8+ ** 10
85 Gasoline sit start V8+ ** 27
86 Gasoline Stand-Start f7A+ * 47
87 Gasoline Sit Start (Fire Breather Finish) V8+ ** 1
88 Straight Up Arson La! (Stand) f7B 1
89 Straight Up Arson La! f7C 1
90 Desperado SitPosition V9 ** 1
91 Desperado Disposition V8+ 2
92 Firestarter into Sparks Finish V7 ** 65
93 Firestarter Direct into Gasoline f7C ** 1
94 Firestarter Direct V7 21
95 Fire Starter Direct into Sparks Finish V8 4
96 Firestarter Sans Pocket V8 ** 1
97 Firestarter V6 ** 142
98 Twisted Firestarter f7A+ * 1
99 Innuendo Bingo f8A *** 1
100 The Arsonist V7 * 2
101 Singed Possum f7A * 25
102 Embers V5 ** 69
103 Ashes f7A+ *  
104 Problem 8 V2 5c * 36
105 Problem 9
-
V4 6b * 21
106 Possum passion * VE *  
107 Possum passion V6 * V6 * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens