UKC

Climbs 44
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Tom leading the dog © gd303uk

Crag features

Solid, popular crag with the main focus on cracks and pockets. Mainly easier, single pitch routes.

Approach notes

Take the A494 from Mold towards Ruthin, passing through the village of Llanferres. After passing the Druid pub (approx. 200m) you'll come to a lay-by on the left. Park here and cross over the stile and follow the track (public footpath) towards the bridge over the river. Follow the river upstream until a small tributary stream joins the main river from the left. Follow this, passing two more stiles, and the quarry can be found another 100m further on (5 mins walking).

The crag is situated on sheep grazing land, so the owner has requested that dogs be kept away from the area during the month of April, and on leash at all times. Lighting fires and leaving gates open strictly forbidden.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
It's a terrible shock to everyone who knew him. Adrian Bridge was immediate past President of the Yorkshire Rambler's Club, a very competent rock climber and a rel gentleman. Words fail...
CHAMPIONARTHUR - 14/Apr/11
FATAL ACCIDENT AT POT HOLE QUARRY - On the evening of 08/04/2011 a 65 yo male was climbing by himself and suffered a 12m (40ft)fall - unfortunatly the fall was fatal and he was pronounced dead at the scene - Condolences go out to all his family and friends
christopher bate - 13/Apr/11
stay off the main wall if your leading and you plan on doing sub HVS. top ropers have polished it to hell... obvious good holds = crap. like climbing on ice without crampons and axes
adam06 - 28/Jun/09
Beware of quantities of broken glass if climbing at the far right hand end of the crag. We were there last week and it looks as if the drunken youths have returned and been throwing bottles down from the top. We paid our rope out from a bag to avoid damage and had to pick our way carefully at the bottom of the crag. Also there are glass shards and splinters in cracks and hand holds so please take extra care.
snowcat - 15/Aug/06
Beware the highly polished easier routes at right end - often used by groups for top roping beginners, also if more than 1 minibus in layby better to give it a miss. Can be a warm sheltered suntrap in spring/autumn and great for strengthening fingers and improving footwork. The "Dog" is a classic with more interesting routes and variations on either side.
peteraccre - 07/May/06
Why does the database say VD to E2 when rockfax shows for example two E3's on the main wall? One or other has been updated?
Glyn Jones - 01/Apr/06
A great little place - the rock is real nice to climb on and one can get plenty of mileage around the mid-grades. Didn't spot much litter and there isn't much polish on the HVSs.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
The crag can get very busy in the summer as it is a sun trap, the routes are all very polished and can seem a bit desperate at times
bludger - 05/Jul/05
we were at pot hole quarry 3 weekends ago. the fire and all the beer cans/bottles were from a bunch of about 6 lads from Liverpool wild camping and generally running amock nothing to do with climbers.
Paul Bowen - 13/May/05
Some of the easier climbs are becoming very polished, which means some of them are becoming pretty serious. However, the E1s and above are spot on!
Ben Davies - 04/Dec/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Wall
2 Sunset VD 117
3 Blindfold HS 4a 109
4 Once Is Never Enough VS 4c 32
5 Burning Bush VS 4c 64
6 Tosa HVS 5a * 67
7 Cima HVS 5a 38
8 Lower Girdle Traverse V2 * 1
9 Badger disco E2 5b 3
10 Sideswipe HS 4b 6
11 Howlers * HS 4b 3
12 Owl Wall (P1) HS 4a *  
  Main Wall
14 Owl Wall (P2) HS 4a * 135
15 Mango HS 4a * 260
16 Chutney VS 5a * 121
Climb name Grade
17 Droggo VS 4b * 175
18 Epitaph HVS 5b * 121
19 Horndog HVS 5a 33
20 Talking Legs E1 5b * 30
21 Talking Fingers HVS 5b * 45
22 Roger Rabbit E1 5c 12
23 Right Angle HS 4b 94
24 Silly Lilly E1 5a * 28
25 Id E3 5c * 14
26 Right Wall E2 5c ** 50
27 The Dog HVS 5b *** 396
28 Canine Meander E2 5b ** 52
29 Ceba E1 5b *** 215
30 Ego E3 5c * 36
31 Vetta E1 5a ** 146
32 Vetta Variation E3 5c * 17
Climb name Grade
33 Major HVS 5a ** 205
34 Grizzly HVS 5a * 231
35 Un-Aided VS 4b * 280
36 Tre-Fynnon VS 4b 78
37 The Watzmann VS 4b * 164
38 Murren HS 4b * 314
39 Cristallo VS 4b * 206
40 Selva VS 4a 165
41 Sesto HVD * 270
42 Mestre S 4a 266
43 Diagonal Route E1 5b 9
44 Main Wall Girdle E2 5c 3
45 Halestorm * HVD 1
46 Follow The Hollow * S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MDowson