Climbs 139
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SW

Worlds End under the stars © Joss

Crag features

Quality, quick-drying limestone. Good selection of routes, single pitch to 25 metres. Tendency to polish on the easier routes. Mainly natural protection with a sprinkling of bolts, but not enogh to make 'sport-climbs'.

Approach notes

Follow the A5 to the town of Llangollen. In the town there is a bridge spanning the river Dee. Cross this, and at the T-jct, turn right (East) onto the A539 and then almost immediately, turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road, and the crags will soon come into view, until, afetr about four miles you reach a ford. Cross the stream and drive for about 450m further up the hill until you come to a car park on the left hand side. Park here and walk back to the ford to a footpath that follows the stream uphill. Looking up at the left-hand side of the valley, World's End Escarpment can be seen.
Car park now closed parking further on on left.
Please do not park anywhere than the proper car-park, as this could jeopardize the current access agreement with the landowner who currently has no objections to climbers using his crag.

Access Advice

Climbers are asked to use slings if using the trees for belaying or abseiling to avoid ring-barking. Please note: the car park which is privately owned now appears to be closed and car parking places are severely limted  on the roadside, and nearest parking is on the roadside at  the open moor above the old car park. - Please take great care not to block the lane, passing places or any gateways. The crag is just outside the Open Access land boundary. See map here;

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Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks: (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
There's amply parking at the top of the hill beyond the old car park - it's only an extra 75m of walking! Come on folks, don't block the road, walk just that little bit further!
GrahamUney - 14/Jun/14
Been on the inelegance area today. Lovely half day of climbing - great crag. BE WARNED: there is a significant amount of loose rock at the top of inelegance (shared with incompetance). A large block on one if pinnacles detached whilst I was standing on it - fortunately we were climbing inelegance (not incompetance) or it would have hit the belayer. Higher up virtually every block/obvious hold was moving alarmingly. Be careful.
RichJ634 - 08/Mar/14
The car park now appears to be closed and people are parking in the limited lay-bys along the lane. The BMC RAD confirms this.
matthewpwilson - 04/Aug/13
Many of the easier lines follow very strong cracklines - quite different from the peak limestone I've climbed on. I did an awful lot of hand and fist jamming. A little short and a tad polished but lovely views.
TobyA - 16/Jul/07
Please note that the car park is only open 8am to 8pm. You cannot see the notice at this time of year as it is obscured by vegetation.
snowcat - 15/Aug/06
Climbers are still parking in the lay-byes at the bottom of the Hill, please read the access notes.
andy wilcox - 26/Apr/06
nearly fell off
Catherine - 20/Mar/06
love it its not far away only the easy stuff is polished and the trees at the top make bringing up a second a doddle
ashaw - 26/Jan/06
Not as nice as it looks. From the guide photos and even from the road, it looked great, but closer up the rock is as obtuse and awkward to climb on as standard Peak limestone. The situation is still very good, though.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Crystal E1 5b. Is that really the grade? Each piece of pro in needed and placed in a sustained position. Who else has done it? What did the think to the grade?
Ian Henderson - 26/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Taerg Wall Area 
2Cathcart's Got a Brand New BrodrieE1 5b *10
3Finer FeelingsHVS 5b **100
4Warp CommanderE1 5b *34
5The TrickHVS 5a *17
6Vertical GamesE3 6a *4
7ChanceE2 5b 6
8Ash BoleS 4a 13
9Under ExposedVS 4c **1
10QuillVS 4c *73
11StingHS 4a *107
12Jennifer CrackHS 4a **84
13World's EdgeE4 6a **12
14Someone Like YouE5 6b * 
15Soul on IceE4 5c *1
16Les ElephantsVS 4c 11
17Telegram SamE4 6a * 
18Tearg WallE2 5c ***109
19Wasters MallE4 6b **1
20Heart of DarknessE3 5c *7
21Half and HalfS 4a 41
22Sleeping BeautyE3 6a  
23XuxuE2 5b 4
24SlitherVS 4c *31
25Ivy CrackS 4a *65
26WitherD 27
27Christmas SpiritE1 5b 26
28Flash HarryE5 6b *2
29Flash DanceE4 6b **8
30Jumping Jack FlashE4 5c  
 Intensity Area 
32Craznitch CrackHS 4a 44
33Close to the EdgeE1 5b **41
34IntensityHVS 5b **46
35Gone BadE1 5b 3
36Going BadE2 5b 2
37Yew and MeE3 5c 1
38Cigars of the Pharaohs7b *7
39Shooting StarE4 6b ***10
40The Final Solution7c+ **9
41Sisters of the MoonE5 6a  
42Brigadier GerardE5 6a *2
43Tripe and LandahE1 5b 9
44Fossil FinishVS 4c 10
45Ego BeaverE3 6b *6
46Titanium ManE3 6a *14
47MethE1 5b  
48CrystalE1 5b **27
49Dr. TechnicalE4 6b *1
50Nurse NurseE5 6b 2
51Read My LipsE5 6c  
52Clartum Corner
HS 3
 Open Book Area 
54Margarine AreteHVS 5a *14
55WhimHVS 5a **181
56WindhoverE2 5c **47
57Silver ShadowE4 5c ** 
58Ivy GrooveVS 4b *38
59Butter AreteE3 5b **45
60Suicide CrackE3 6a ***45
61J.T.PHVS 5a 75
62Open BookS 4a **292
63SlapalongVS 4c *37
64Hells AreteE4 6a 5
65Fall OutE1 5b ***123
66Into The FireE5 6a * 
67A'ChevalVD 1
68A' Cheval
VD 41
69Copper PinnacleHS 4a 10
70SquirmD 49
 Inelegance Area 
72Rough CutVS 4c 15
73Crystal ShipE3 5c *6
74Dope on a RopeE6 6a *2
75Dead Fingers TalkE3 6a *10
76IneleganceVD **247
77InspirationHS 4b *217
78IncompetenceHVD **255
79InsecureHVS 5a *137
80AshgroveVD 39
 Black Ash Area 
82Crackstone RibE1 5a 11
83Ashgrove PrelimsVS 4c *155
84Black AshHVS 5b 40
85Black PathE2 5b 7
86Flakeless GrooveHS 4b 41
87Gardeners Question TimeS 4a 83
88Scarface GrooveD 90
89White CrackVD 186
90Rich's RobberyS 4a 67
91White GrooveS 4a 105
92Twisting CornerHS 4a *127
93Bootlace ThreadE5 6a *2
94CornucopiaE1 5b *19
95Shabby SlabE1 5a *26
96As Yew Like ItS 4a *183
 Coltsfoot Crack Area 
98Hornbeam WallVS 4b 32
99HornwallE1 5b 36
100HornyE2 5c *5
101HornblowerE2 5c *16
102Harvey Wall BangerE2 5c *9
103HornbeamE3 6a *5
104Coltsfoot CornerHS 4b *240
105Left EdgeHS 4a 172
106Straight EdgeHS 4b *131
107Right EdgeVS 4b *122
108Coltsfoot CrackHVS 5a *138
109ShelfwayS 3c 210
110End FlakeHVD 228
111Recession BluesVS 4c *97
 Middle Tier 
113RumbleD 6
114Layback With MeHS 4a 16
115HandjamS 4a 8
116Cake WalkVD 16
117DesistVS 4b 9
118Mr FlayVS 4a 6
119MarjounHVS 5a 4
120Diamond SolitaireE2 5b  
 Lower Tier 
122DiamondVS 5a 3
123PrelE3 6a  
124GrassHVD 1
125SunspotsHVS 5a 1
126PisaS 4a 2
127HypertensionE3 5b  
128Holly Tree WallS 4a 8
129CatoS 4a 9
130Carter U.C.ME2 5c  
131The CauseHVS 5a 5
132Plasuchaf CrackS 4a *17
133Muscle BoundE2 5b 5
134SpetsnazE2 5c 6
135Icicle Of DeathE3 5c  
136Caveman WallE2 5b  
137PlaneriumS 4a *26
138BrinkmanE2 5a 1
139KinkyE2 5c  
140La Di DaE2 5b  
141Black OutVS 4c 14
142Black DogVS 4c 6
143GanjahS 4a 18
144Brown CracksS 3c 12
145Picture AreteVS 4c 9
146NoseVD 11
147Ouja ChimneyD 16

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