Climbs 139
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SW

Worlds End under the stars © Joss

Crag features

Quality, quick-drying limestone. Good selection of routes, single pitch to 25 metres. Tendency to polish on the easier routes. Mainly natural protection with a sprinkling of bolts, but not enogh to make 'sport-climbs'.

Approach notes

Follow the A5 to the town of Llangollen. In the town there is a bridge spanning the river Dee. Cross this, and at the T-jct, turn right (East) onto the A539 and then almost immediately, turn left into a small, steep side road. Follow this twisting road, and the crags will soon come into view, until, afetr about four miles you reach a ford. Cross the stream and drive for about 450m further up the hill until you come to a car park on the left hand side. Park here and walk back to the ford to a footpath that follows the stream uphill. Looking up at the left-hand side of the valley, World's End Escarpment can be seen.
Car park now closed parking further on on left.
Please do not park anywhere than the proper car-park, as this could jeopardize the current access agreement with the landowner who currently has no objections to climbers using his crag.

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
There's amply parking at the top of the hill beyond the old car park - it's only an extra 75m of walking! Come on folks, don't block the road, walk just that little bit further!
GrahamUney - 14/Jun/14
Been on the inelegance area today. Lovely half day of climbing - great crag. BE WARNED: there is a significant amount of loose rock at the top of inelegance (shared with incompetance). A large block on one if pinnacles detached whilst I was standing on it - fortunately we were climbing inelegance (not incompetance) or it would have hit the belayer. Higher up virtually every block/obvious hold was moving alarmingly. Be careful.
RichJ634 - 08/Mar/14
The car park now appears to be closed and people are parking in the limited lay-bys along the lane. The BMC RAD confirms this.
matthewpwilson - 04/Aug/13
Many of the easier lines follow very strong cracklines - quite different from the peak limestone I've climbed on. I did an awful lot of hand and fist jamming. A little short and a tad polished but lovely views.
TobyA - 16/Jul/07
Please note that the car park is only open 8am to 8pm. You cannot see the notice at this time of year as it is obscured by vegetation.
snowcat - 15/Aug/06
Climbers are still parking in the lay-byes at the bottom of the Hill, please read the access notes.
andy wilcox - 26/Apr/06
nearly fell off
Catherine - 20/Mar/06
love it its not far away only the easy stuff is polished and the trees at the top make bringing up a second a doddle
ashaw - 26/Jan/06
Not as nice as it looks. From the guide photos and even from the road, it looked great, but closer up the rock is as obtuse and awkward to climb on as standard Peak limestone. The situation is still very good, though.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
Crystal E1 5b. Is that really the grade? Each piece of pro in needed and placed in a sustained position. Who else has done it? What did the think to the grade?
Ian Henderson - 26/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Taerg Wall Area
2 Cathcart's Got a Brand New Brodrie E1 5b * 10
3 Finer Feelings HVS 5b ** 116
4 Warp Commander E1 5b * 34
5 The Trick HVS 5a * 18
6 Vertical Games E3 6a * 4
7 Chance E2 5b 6
8 Ash Bole S 4a 13
9 Under Exposed VS 4c ** 2
10 Quill VS 4c * 80
11 Sting HS 4a * 120
12 Jennifer Crack HS 4a ** 95
13 World's Edge E4 6a ** 14
14 Someone Like You E5 6b *  
15 Soul on Ice E4 5c * 1
16 Les Elephants VS 4c 11
17 Telegram Sam E4 6a *  
18 Tearg Wall E2 5c *** 115
19 Wasters Mall E4 6b ** 1
20 Heart of Darkness E3 5c * 7
21 Half and Half S 4a 45
22 Sleeping Beauty E3 6a  
23 Xuxu E2 5b 5
24 Slither VS 4c * 29
25 Ivy Crack S 4a * 70
26 Wither D 30
27 Christmas Spirit E1 5b 26
28 Flash Harry E5 6b * 2
29 Flash Dance E4 6b ** 11
30 Jumping Jack Flash E4 5c  
  Intensity Area
32 Craznitch Crack HS 4a 50
33 Close to the Edge E1 5b ** 43
34 Intensity HVS 5b ** 62
35 Gone Bad E1 5b 3
36 Going Bad E2 5b 2
37 Yew and Me E3 5c 1
38 Cigars of the Pharaohs 7b * 7
39 Shooting Star E4 6b *** 14
40 The Final Solution 7c+ ** 9
41 Sisters of the Moon E5 6a  
42 Brigadier Gerard E5 6a * 2
43 Tripe and Landah E1 5b 9
44 Fossil Finish VS 4c 9
45 Ego Beaver E3 6b * 6
46 Titanium Man E3 6a * 15
47 Meth E1 5b  
48 Crystal E1 5b ** 34
49 Dr. Technical E4 6b * 1
50 Nurse Nurse E5 6b 2
51 Read My Lips E5 6c  
52 Clartum Corner
-
HS 3
  Open Book Area
54 Margarine Arete HVS 5a * 21
55 Whim HVS 5a ** 193
56 Windhover E2 5c ** 49
57 Silver Shadow E4 5c **  
58 Ivy Groove VS 4b * 44
59 Butter Arete E3 5b ** 47
60 Suicide Crack E3 6a *** 42
61 J.T.P HVS 5a 83
62 Open Book S 4a ** 317
63 Slapalong VS 4c * 43
64 Hells Arete E4 6a 5
65 Fall Out E1 5b *** 132
66 Into The Fire E5 6a *  
67 A'Cheval VD 2
68 A' Cheval
-
VD 41
69 Copper Pinnacle HS 4a 9
70 Squirm D 50
  Inelegance Area
72 Rough Cut VS 4c 16
73 Crystal Ship E3 5c * 6
74 Dope on a Rope E6 6a * 2
75 Dead Fingers Talk E3 6a * 10
76 Inelegance VD ** 256
77 Inspiration HS 4b * 233
78 Incompetence HVD ** 275
79 Insecure HVS 5a * 147
80 Ashgrove VD 45
  Black Ash Area
82 Crackstone Rib E1 5a 11
83 Ashgrove Prelims VS 4c * 157
84 Black Ash HVS 5b 42
85 Black Path E2 5b 7
86 Flakeless Groove HS 4b 42
87 Gardeners Question Time S 4a 83
88 Scarface Groove D 90
89 White Crack VD 193
90 Rich's Robbery S 4a 72
91 White Groove S 4a 109
92 Twisting Corner HS 4a * 142
93 Bootlace Thread E5 6a * 2
94 Cornucopia E1 5b * 22
95 Shabby Slab E1 5a * 28
96 As Yew Like It S 4a * 194
  Coltsfoot Crack Area
98 Hornbeam Wall VS 4b 34
99 Hornwall E1 5b 44
100 Horny E2 5c * 5
101 Hornblower E2 5c * 16
102 Harvey Wall Banger E2 5c * 9
103 Hornbeam E3 6a * 5
104 Coltsfoot Corner HS 4b * 247
105 Left Edge HS 4a 182
106 Straight Edge HS 4b * 149
107 Right Edge VS 4b * 133
108 Coltsfoot Crack HVS 5a * 148
109 Shelfway S 3c 219
110 End Flake HVD 239
111 Recession Blues VS 4c * 100
  Middle Tier
113 Rumble D 6
114 Layback With Me HS 4a 16
115 Handjam S 4a 8
116 Cake Walk VD 16
117 Desist VS 4b 8
118 Mr Flay VS 4a 6
119 Marjoun HVS 5a 4
120 Diamond Solitaire E2 5b  
  Lower Tier
122 Diamond VS 5a 3
123 Prel E3 6a  
124 Grass HVD 1
125 Sunspots HVS 5a 1
126 Pisa S 4a 2
127 Hypertension E3 5b  
128 Holly Tree Wall S 4a 8
129 Cato S 4a 9
130 Carter U.C.M E2 5c  
131 The Cause HVS 5a 5
132 Plasuchaf Crack S 4a * 17
133 Muscle Bound E2 5b 5
134 Spetsnaz E2 5c 6
135 Icicle Of Death E3 5c  
136 Caveman Wall E2 5b  
137 Planerium S 4a * 26
138 Brinkman E2 5a 1
139 Kinky E2 5c  
140 La Di Da E2 5b  
141 Black Out VS 4c 14
142 Black Dog VS 4c 6
143 Ganjah S 4a 19
144 Brown Cracks S 3c 12
145 Picture Arete VS 4c 9
146 Nose VD 11
147 Ouja Chimney D 16

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