UKC

Climbs 65
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces W

St John's & Castle Rock © Jonathan Lagoe - UKC

Crag features

UPDATE 26/11/2018 The block above and left of Overhanging Bastion has now fallen, and taken several climbs with it: UKC News post

Further instability is possible and climbers are advised to be very cautious!

Superb easy access crag. North Crag 75m, steep and sometimes bold climbing - Watchtower(E2), North Crag Eliminate(E1), Agony(E1), Zig Zag(MVS), Overhanging Bastion(VS), May Day Cracks(VS), Thirlmere Eliminate(E1), Rigor Mortis(E2), Ghost(E3), Triermain Eliminate(E2), Angels Highway(HVS), Ted Cheasby(E2), Eliminate Girdle(E1). South Crag - less steep, sunnier and quicker drying - 35m - Via Media(S), Direct Route(VS), Kleine Rinne(VS), Gangway Climb(VD).

Approach notes

Park in car park below the crag - five minute walk in.

Guidebooks

Yep agree with that, in a storm is not fun, the hard move off the spike onto the ramp is not easy when a river is running down the ramp!
Greg Kirkpatrick - 17/Jun/04
overhanging bastion is \'interesting\' in a storm...! Must be done (but not in a storm)
robbie c - 19/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The North Gully Wall
2 Castle Wall
-
MVS 4a 7
3 Flying Buttress
-
VS 4b 8
  The North Crag
5 The Watchtower
-
E2 5c ** 32
6 The Barbican
-
VS 4c * 51
7 Matheson Avenue
-
HVS 5a * 10
8 Side of the Hill
-
E1 5a * 8
9 North Crag Eliminate
-
E1 5b ** 356
10 First Republic
-
E3 6a * 3
11 The Last Laugh
-
E3 6b * 16
12 Agony
-
E1 5a ** 83
13 Deliverance E1 5a ** 8
14 Zig Zag
-
VS 4b ** 333
15 Ecasty
-
E2 5c 4
16 Overhanging Bastion
-
VS 5a *** 700
17 One World, One Family
-
E1 5a * 2
18 Eliminator
-
E2 5b 4
19 May Day Cracks
-
VS 5a ** 120
20 Wet Day Wander
-
E1 5a  
21 Thirlmere Eliminate E1 5b *** 216
22 Wild Wall Variation
-
E4 6a  
23 The Ultimate Eliminate
-
E3 5c  
Climb name Grade
24 Rigor Mortis E2 5c *** 107
25 Last on the List
-
HVS 5a * 7
26 White Dwarf
-
E3 5c * 18
27 The Ghost
-
E3 5c ** 39
28 Harlot Face
-
E1 5b * 240
29 Triemain Eliminate E2 5b ** 124
30 Where Monkeys Dare E5 6b  
31 Angel's Highway HVS 5a ** 54
32 Ted Cheasby E2 5c ** 98
33 Ted Cheasby Direct Finish E4 6a ** 1
34 Gabriel E2 5b  
35 Eliminate girdle E1 5b ** 13
36 The Final Giggle
-
E1 5a 22
37 Wingnut E2 5c 4
38 Drag E1 5b 4
  The South Crag
40 Howler
-
E1 5b 23
41 Chapel Cracks
-
VS 4b * 131
42 Eleven Hundred Miles
-
E4 6a 1
43 hope
-
E2 5b 13
44 Scoop and Crack HVS 5a 38
45 Green Eggs and Ham
-
E1 5c * 79
46 Reward
-
E2 5c 10
Climb name Grade
47 Gazebo
-
HVS 5a * 628
48 Via Media
-
S ** 1034
49 Direct Route
-
VS 4b ** 732
50 Direct Route Direct Start
-
VS 4c 34
51 Failed Romantic
-
E1 5b * 247
52 Romantically challenged E1 5b ** 100
53 Romantically Direct E1 5b * 19
54 Kleine Rinne
-
VS 4b ** 830
55 Yew Tree Climb
-
VD 887
56 Pinnacle Wall
-
HVS 4c 30
57 Gangway Climb
-
VD ** 799
58 Gangway Direct MVS 4a 26
59 Wall Climb
-
S 3c * 427
60 Lilith HS 180
61 Slab Climb S 4a ** 968
62 Companion way
-
MS 46
63 No Name
-
M * 114
64 South Crag Girdle S 18
65 Walsh's Blind Variant
-
E2 5b * 3
66 Gazebo direct
-
HVS 5a *** 106
67 Chapel Cracks RH Start VS 4b 3
68 The Gossard * VS  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull