UKC

Climbs 65
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces W

St John's & Castle Rock © Jonathan Lagoe - UKC

Crag features

WARNING!! POTENTIAL FOR MASSIVE ROCKFALL ABOVE AND LEFT OF FINISH OF OVERHANGING BASTION. See UKC News article (22/07/11) for further info and photos of the crack which is opening at the top of the crag.

UPDATE 6/03/15 from the FRCC Guides Facebook page:- "The crack continues to be monitored and is opening more rapidly. This means that the whole of the north end of the North Crag is an extremely dangerous place to be. Our recommendation is that you avoid any route to the left of May Day Cracks." The FRCC Facebook page also has a topo of the affected area.

Superb easy access crag. North Crag 75m, steep and sometimes bold climbing - Watchtower(E2), North Crag Eliminate(E1), Agony(E1), Zig Zag(MVS), Overhanging Bastion(VS), May Day Cracks(VS), Thirlmere Eliminate(E1), Rigor Mortis(E2), Ghost(E3), Triermain Eliminate(E2), Angels Highway(HVS), Ted Cheasby(E2), Eliminate Girdle(E1). South Crag - less steep, sunnier and quicker drying - 35m - Via Media(S), Direct Route(VS), Kleine Rinne(VS), Gangway Climb(VD).

Approach notes

Park in car park below the crag - five minute walk in.

Guidebooks

Yep agree with that, in a storm is not fun, the hard move off the spike onto the ramp is not easy when a river is running down the ramp!
Greg Kirkpatrick - 17/Jun/04
overhanging bastion is \'interesting\' in a storm...! Must be done (but not in a storm)
robbie c - 19/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The North Gully Wall
2 Castle Wall
-
MVS 4a 7
3 Flying Buttress
-
VS 4b 8
  The North Crag
5 The Watchtower
-
E2 5c ** 30
6 The Barbican
-
VS 4c * 49
7 Matheson Avenue
-
HVS 5a * 9
8 Side of the Hill
-
E1 5a * 8
9 North Crag Eliminate
-
E1 5b ** 352
10 First Republic
-
E3 6a * 3
11 The Last Laugh
-
E3 6b * 16
12 Agony
-
E1 5a ** 82
13 Deliverance E1 5a ** 8
14 Zig Zag
-
VS 4b ** 328
15 Ecasty
-
E2 5c 4
16 Overhanging Bastion
-
VS 5a *** 691
17 One World, One Family
-
E1 5a * 2
18 Eliminator
-
E2 5b 4
19 May Day Cracks
-
VS 5a ** 121
20 Wet Day Wander
-
E1 5a  
21 Thirlmere Eliminate E1 5b *** 212
22 Wild Wall Variation
-
E4 6a  
23 The Ultimate Eliminate
-
E3 5c  
Climb name Grade
24 Rigor Mortis E2 5c *** 107
25 Last on the List
-
HVS 5a * 7
26 White Dwarf
-
E3 5c * 19
27 The Ghost
-
E3 5c ** 39
28 Harlot Face
-
E1 5b * 240
29 Triemain Eliminate E2 5b ** 124
30 Where Monkeys Dare E5 6b  
31 Angel's Highway HVS 5a ** 55
32 Ted Cheasby E2 5c ** 98
33 Ted Cheasby Direct Finish E4 6a ** 1
34 Gabriel E2 5b 1
35 Eliminate girdle E1 5b ** 13
36 The Final Giggle
-
E1 5a 22
37 Wingnut E2 5c 4
38 Drag E1 5b 4
  The South Crag
40 Howler
-
E1 5b 22
41 Chapel Cracks
-
VS 4b * 126
42 Eleven Hundred Miles
-
E4 6a 1
43 hope
-
E2 5b 13
44 Scoop and Crack HVS 5a 38
45 Green Eggs and Ham
-
E1 5c * 78
46 Reward
-
E2 5c 11
Climb name Grade
47 Gazebo
-
HVS 5a * 616
48 Via Media
-
S ** 1016
49 Direct Route
-
VS 4b ** 725
50 Direct Route Direct Start
-
VS 4c 34
51 Failed Romantic
-
E1 5b * 240
52 Romantically challenged E1 5b ** 97
53 Romantically Direct E1 5b * 16
54 Kleine Rinne
-
VS 4b ** 809
55 Yew Tree Climb
-
VD 875
56 Pinnacle Wall
-
HVS 4c 30
57 Gangway Climb
-
VD ** 781
58 Gangway Direct MVS 4a 24
59 Wall Climb
-
S 3c * 412
60 Lilith HS 176
61 Slab Climb S 4a ** 947
62 Companion way
-
MS 46
63 No Name
-
M * 114
64 South Crag Girdle S 18
65 Walsh's Blind Variant
-
E2 5b * 4
66 Gazebo direct
-
HVS 5a *** 107
67 Chapel Cracks RH Start VS 4b 3
68 The Gossard * VS  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull