Climbs 65
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces W

St John's & Castle Rock © Jonathan Lagoe - UKC

Crag features

WARNING!! POTENTIAL FOR MASSIVE ROCKFALL ABOVE AND LEFT OF FINISH OF OVERHANGING BASTION. See UKC News article (22/07/11) for further info and photos of the crack which is opening at the top of the crag.

UPDATE 6/03/15 from the FRCC Guides Facebook page:- "The crack continues to be monitored and is opening more rapidly. This means that the whole of the north end of the North Crag is an extremely dangerous place to be. Our recommendation is that you avoid any route to the left of May Day Cracks." The FRCC Facebook page also has a topo of the affected area.

Superb easy access crag. North Crag 75m, steep and sometimes bold climbing - Watchtower(E2), North Crag Eliminate(E1), Agony(E1), Zig Zag(MVS), Overhanging Bastion(VS), May Day Cracks(VS), Thirlmere Eliminate(E1), Rigor Mortis(E2), Ghost(E3), Triermain Eliminate(E2), Angels Highway(HVS), Ted Cheasby(E2), Eliminate Girdle(E1). South Crag - less steep, sunnier and quicker drying - 35m - Via Media(S), Direct Route(VS), Kleine Rinne(VS), Gangway Climb(VD).

Approach notes

Park in car park below the crag - five minute walk in.

Guidebooks

Yep agree with that, in a storm is not fun, the hard move off the spike onto the ramp is not easy when a river is running down the ramp!
Greg Kirkpatrick - 17/Jun/04
overhanging bastion is \'interesting\' in a storm...! Must be done (but not in a storm)
robbie c - 19/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The North Gully Wall
2 Castle Wall
-
MVS 4a 7
3 Flying Buttress
-
VS 4b 8
  The North Crag
5 The Watchtower
-
E2 5c ** 29
6 The Barbican
-
VS 4c * 51
7 Matheson Avenue
-
HVS 5a * 9
8 Side of the Hill
-
E1 5a * 8
9 North Crag Eliminate
-
E1 5b ** 353
10 First Republic
-
E3 6a * 3
11 The Last Laugh
-
E3 6b * 16
12 Agony
-
E1 5a ** 81
13 Deliverance E1 5a ** 6
14 Zig Zag
-
VS 4b ** 324
15 Ecasty
-
E2 5c 4
16 Overhanging Bastion
-
VS 5a *** 728
17 One World, One Family
-
E1 5a * 2
18 Eliminator
-
E2 5b 4
19 May Day Cracks
-
VS 5a ** 128
20 Wet Day Wander
-
E1 5a  
21 Thirlmere Eliminate E1 5b *** 210
22 Wild Wall Variation
-
E4 6a  
23 The Ultimate Eliminate
-
E3 5c  
24 Rigor Mortis E2 5c *** 104
25 Last on the List
-
HVS 5a * 7
26 White Dwarf
-
E3 5c * 16
27 The Ghost
-
E3 5c ** 33
28 Harlot Face
-
E1 5b * 214
29 Triemain Eliminate E2 5b ** 109
30 Where Monkeys Dare E5 6b  
31 Angel's Highway HVS 5a ** 52
32 Ted Cheasby E2 5c ** 90
33 Ted Cheasby Direct Finish E4 6a ** 1
34 Gabriel E2 5b  
35 Eliminate girdle E1 5b ** 12
36 The Final Giggle
-
E1 5a 21
37 Wingnut E2 5c 4
38 Drag E1 5b 4
  The South Crag
40 Howler
-
E1 5b 20
41 Chapel Cracks
-
VS 4b * 118
42 Eleven Hundred Miles
-
E4 6a 1
43 hope
-
E2 5b 13
44 Scoop and Crack HVS 5a 36
45 Green Eggs and Ham
-
E1 5c * 73
46 Reward
-
E2 5c 10
47 Gazebo
-
HVS 5a * 592
48 Via Media
-
S ** 945
49 Direct Route
-
VS 4b ** 679
50 Direct Route Direct Start
-
VS 4c 31
51 Failed Romantic
-
E1 5b * 219
52 Romantically challenged E1 5b ** 75
53 Romantically Direct E1 5b * 13
54 Kleine Rinne
-
VS 4b ** 755
55 Yew Tree Climb
-
VD 806
56 Pinnacle Wall
-
HVS 4c 29
57 Gangway Climb
-
VD ** 713
58 Gangway Direct MVS 4a 22
59 Wall Climb
-
S 3c * 345
60 Lilith HS 149
61 Slab Climb S 4a ** 875
62 Companion way
-
MS 42
63 No Name
-
M * 109
64 South Crag Girdle S 18
65 Walsh's Blind Variant
-
E2 5b * 2
66 Gazebo direct
-
HVS 5a *** 84
67 Chapel Cracks RH Start VS 4b 2
68 The Gossard * VS  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull