Climbs 93
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 45m a.s.l
Faces W

Ally Smith on his new route, Chocoholic, E5 6a, Upper Wall, Avon Gorge. © James Jackson

Crag features

Slabby, easy angled lime stone, lots of excellent routes in the easier grades, but protection tends to be sparse, and many of the plum lines suffer from polish. Some of the best bouldering in the area can be had here. Multi-pitch routes to 90 metres.

Approach notes

Park at Main Wall and walk, or in Clifton and walk down the zig-zags near Bridge Valley Road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Whoever has recently put the action man on the Aid line over the overhang is a complete lad.
Stanners - 30/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Morning Slab 
2Dawn WalkS 4a *246
3The CornerHVS 4c *95
4Mason's Plank WalkA2 10
5Turn of the Screw
A3 14
6ReveilleHVS 4c *176
7Tiptoe FingersHVS 5a 8
8PricelessE2 6a 1
9Rude AwakeningE2 5b *17
10Morty's ErrorE2 5b 41
11Mike's MistakeE1 5b **213
12Lime in de Coconut
E3 5b 3
13Lost in Space
E2 5b 2
14Mark's MoralityE2 5b 8
15Last TrumpE2 5b *45
16Last PostVS 4c 33
17ClarionVS 4c **591
18SinisterHS 4b **667
19Good Morning YouHS 4b 2
20Dexter variation- poindexterHVS 4c *4
21DexterHS 4b *478
22Dark MotiveHVS 5a 8
23MediatorE1 5b 53
24The AreteVD 4a **909
25Gurgle Girdle
VS 4c 28
 Evening Wall 
VD 26
28Ledge and Groove
D 20
29Boilerplate DirectVS 4b 17
30Boilerplate RibVS 4a 34
31AftermathVS 4c *145
32Evening Topsy Direct
HVS 5a 5
33Bob's ClimbVD **492
34Grey Wall
VD 22
35The Final Cut?
E2 5b 12
36PetrosVS 4c **518
37Direct RouteS 4a *522
38Direct FinishS 4a 102
39Original RouteD 327
 Central Buttress 
41Central Gully
HS 4a 141
42Central SlabHVS 5a 37
43Central RibVS 4b *257
44The Inverted-VVS 4c 8
45Great Central Piton Route Eliminate
E1 5a *24
46Great Central RouteHVS 5a ***346
47Piton RouteVS 4c **682
48Central EliminateE1 5b 5
49Grand Central Station
E2 5c *22
50Central ButtressE1 5a ***213
51CentaurE2 5b *6
52Pleb in Peril
E4 5c 4
53Centaur's Groove
E1 5a *11
54Diamond Groove
HVS 5b 40
55Not before Time
E5 5c 1
56Slap 'n' TickleE2 6b 2
E1 5a 14
58Easy RouteM 117
59CorridorVS 4
60HiatusVS 2
61Diamond Wall *
E1 5a *1
 Exhibition Slab 
63Route Two
none 5a 7
64Route Minus Twonone 5a 14
65Route Minus One
none 6a 7
66Route 0none 5c 20
67Route Onenone 5b 39
68Joe's Problemnone 5c 12
 Fir Tree Slab 
70Left Edge Route
VD 28
71Rake and Slab
M 32
72Descent Route
M 42
none 4b 41
74Inferior Rubbers
none 5a *42
none 5a 17
76Fir Tree Traverse
VD 21
none 5b 6
none 5a 3
none 5c 3
none 5b 1
81Vee Climb
none 4c 4
82Superior Blubber
none 5b 1
83Bulging Wall
HVS 5a 2
84The Two-thirty Rain
E5 6a 1
85Fir Tree Buttress
HS 4a 8
86Guy *
E6 6c 1
 Sewer Wall 
88Hades Crack
VS 4c 9
89Sewer Groove
E1 5b 2
90Intercepting Trap
E3 6a 1
91Sewer Wall
HVS 5a 2
92Sewerside Wall
HVS 5a 1
 Greased Lightning Wall 
E1 5a 2
95Tumbling Dice
E4 5c  
96Greased Lightning Crack
HS 4a 5
97The Moon under Water
E2 5c 1
98Piton Route Direct FinishE1 5b 1
99The Arete BoulderV1 6
100The Road *E6 6c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Monk