Climbs 93
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 45m a.s.l
Faces W

Ally Smith on his new route, Chocoholic, E5 6a, Upper Wall, Avon Gorge. © James Jackson

Crag features

Slabby, easy angled lime stone, lots of excellent routes in the easier grades, but protection tends to be sparse, and many of the plum lines suffer from polish. Some of the best bouldering in the area can be had here. Multi-pitch routes to 90 metres.

Approach notes

Park at Main Wall and walk, or in Clifton and walk down the zig-zags near Bridge Valley Road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Whoever has recently put the action man on the Aid line over the overhang is a complete lad.
Stanners - 30/Mar/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Morning Slab
2 Dawn Walk S 4a * 258
3 The Corner HVS 4c * 97
4 Mason's Plank Walk A2 2
5 Turn of the Screw
-
A3 6
6 Reveille HVS 4c * 184
7 Tiptoe Fingers HVS 5a 8
8 Priceless E2 6a 1
9 Rude Awakening E2 5b * 20
10 Morty's Error E2 5b 41
11 Mike's Mistake E1 5b ** 217
12 Lime in de Coconut
-
E3 5b 2
13 Lost in Space
-
E2 5b 2
14 Mark's Morality E2 5b 9
15 Last Trump E2 5b * 50
16 Last Post VS 4c 35
17 Clarion VS 4c ** 636
18 Sinister HS 4b ** 701
19 Good Morning You HS 4b 2
20 Dexter variation- poindexter HVS 4c * 4
21 Dexter HS 4b * 503
22 Dark Motive HVS 5a 8
23 Mediator E1 5b 54
24 The Arete VD 4a ** 950
25 Gurgle Girdle
-
VS 4c 21
  Evening Wall
27 Consolation
-
VD 23
28 Ledge and Groove
-
D 20
29 Boilerplate Direct VS 4b 16
30 Boilerplate Rib VS 4a 36
31 Aftermath VS 4c * 137
32 Evening Topsy Direct
-
HVS 5a 5
33 Bob's Climb VD ** 512
34 Grey Wall
-
VD 22
35 The Final Cut?
-
E2 5b 10
36 Petros VS 4c ** 548
37 Direct Route S 4a * 545
38 Direct Finish S 4a 106
39 Original Route D 341
  Central Buttress
41 Central Gully
-
HS 4a 143
42 Central Slab HVS 5a 45
43 Central Rib VS 4b * 273
44 The Inverted-V VS 4c 9
45 Great Central Piton Route Eliminate
-
E1 5a * 22
46 Great Central Route HVS 5a *** 363
47 Piton Route VS 4c ** 710
48 Central Eliminate E1 5b 5
49 Grand Central Station
-
E2 5c * 20
50 Central Buttress E1 5a *** 226
51 Centaur E2 5b * 6
52 Pleb in Peril
-
E4 5c 4
53 Centaur's Groove
-
E1 5a * 11
54 Diamond Groove
-
HVS 5b 40
55 Not before Time
-
E5 5c 1
56 Slap 'n' Tickle E2 6b 2
57 Desperation
-
E1 5a 14
58 Easy Route M 118
59 Corridor VS 4
60 Hiatus VS 2
61 Diamond Wall *
-
E1 5a * 1
  Exhibition Slab
63 Route Two
-
none 5a 7
64 Route Minus Two none 5a 16
65 Route Minus One
-
none 6a 7
66 Route 0 none 5c 22
67 Route One none 5b 43
68 Joe's Problem none 5c 13
  Fir Tree Slab
70 Left Edge Route
-
VD 30
71 Rake and Slab
-
M 32
72 Descent Route
-
M 42
73 Itslide
-
none 4b 45
74 Inferior Rubbers
-
none 5a * 46
75 Friction
-
none 5a 19
76 Fir Tree Traverse
-
VD 26
77 Fingerrip
-
none 5b 7
78 Artifax
-
none 5a 4
79 Sockrot
-
none 5c 4
80 Yoyo
-
none 5b 2
81 Vee Climb
-
none 4c 4
82 Superior Blubber
-
none 5b 1
83 Bulging Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
84 The Two-thirty Rain
-
E5 6a 1
85 Fir Tree Buttress
-
HS 4a 8
86 Guy *
-
E6 6c 1
  Sewer Wall
88 Hades Crack
-
VS 4c 8
89 Sewer Groove
-
E1 5b 2
90 Intercepting Trap
-
E3 6a 1
91 Sewer Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
92 Sewerside Wall
-
HVS 5a 1
  Greased Lightning Wall
94 Lightning-Fast-Reactions
-
E1 5a 2
95 Tumbling Dice
-
E4 5c  
96 Greased Lightning Crack
-
HS 4a 3
97 The Moon under Water
-
E2 5c 1
98 Piton Route Direct Finish E1 5b 1
99 The Arete Boulder V1 5b 6
100 The Road * E6 6c * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Monk