Climbs 90
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 45m a.s.l
Faces W

Ally Smith on his new route, Chocoholic, E5 6a, Upper Wall, Avon Gorge. © James Jackson

Crag features

Slabby, easy angled lime stone, lots of excellent routes in the easier grades, but protection tends to be sparse, and many of the plum lines suffer from polish. Some of the best bouldering in the area can be had here. Multi-pitch routes to 90 metres.

Approach notes

Park at Main Wall and walk, or in Clifton and walk down the zig-zags near Bridge Valley Road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Whoever has recently put the action man on the Aid line over the overhang is a complete lad.
Stanners - 30/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Morning Slab 
2Dawn WalkS 4a *237
3The CornerHVS 4c *94
4Mason's Plank WalkA2 10
5Turn of the Screw
A3 5
6ReveilleHVS 4c *168
7Tiptoe FingersHVS 5a 8
8PricelessE2 6a 1
9Rude AwakeningE2 5b *17
10Morty's ErrorE2 5b 37
11Mike's MistakeE1 5b **201
12Lime in de Coconut
E3 5b  
13Lost in Space
E2 5b 2
14Mark's MoralityE2 5b 8
15Last TrumpE2 5b *44
16Last PostVS 4c 30
17ClarionVS 4c **564
18SinisterHS 4b **633
19Good Morning YouHS 4b 2
20Dexter variation- poindexterHVS 4c *1
21DexterHS 4b *458
22Dark MotiveHVS 5a 7
23MediatorE1 5b 51
24The AreteVD 4a **869
25Gurgle Girdle
VS 4c 19
 Evening Wall 
VD 22
28Ledge and Groove
D 20
29Boilerplate DirectVS 4b 14
30Boilerplate RibVS 4a 29
31AftermathVS 4c *138
32Evening Topsy Direct
HVS 5a 5
33Bob's ClimbVD **473
34Grey Wall
VD 20
35The Final Cut?
E2 5b 12
36PetrosVS 4c **485
37Direct RouteS 4a *489
38Direct FinishS 4a 101
39Original RouteD 321
 Central Buttress 
41Central Gully
HS 4a 134
42Central SlabHVS 5a 36
43Central RibVS 4b *243
44The Inverted-VVS 4c 8
45Great Central Piton Route Eliminate
E1 5a *23
46Great Central RouteHVS 5a ***331
47Piton RouteVS 4c **654
48Central EliminateE1 5b 4
49Grand Central Station
E2 5c *22
50Central ButtressE1 5a ***205
51CentaurE2 5b *6
52Pleb in Peril
E4 5c 4
53Centaur's Groove
E1 5a *11
54Diamond Groove
HVS 5b 38
55Not before Time
E5 5c 1
56Slap 'n' TickleE2 6b 2
E1 5a 14
58Easy RouteM 109
59CorridorVS 4
60HiatusVS 2
 Exhibition Slab 
62Route Two
none 5a 6
63Route Minus Twonone 5a 13
64Route Minus One
none 6a 7
65Route 0none 5c 19
66Route Onenone 5b 36
67Joe's Problemnone 5c 11
 Fir Tree Slab 
69Left Edge Route
VD 27
70Rake and Slab
M 31
71Descent Route
M 41
none 4b 34
73Inferior Rubbers
none 5a *36
none 5a 12
75Fir Tree Traverse
VD 20
none 5b 4
none 5a 3
none 5c 3
none 5b 1
80Vee Climb
none 4c 3
81Superior Blubber
none 5b 1
82Bulging Wall
HVS 5a 2
83The Two-thirty Rain
E5 6a 1
84Fir Tree Buttress
HS 4a 8
 Sewer Wall 
86Hades Crack
VS 4c 5
87Sewer Groove
E1 5b 2
88Intercepting Trap
E3 6a 1
89Sewer Wall
HVS 5a 2
90Sewerside Wall
HVS 5a 1
 Greased Lightning Wall 
E1 5a 2
93Tumbling Dice
E4 5c  
94Greased Lightning Crack
HS 4a 2
95The Moon under Water
E2 5c 1
96Piton Route Direct FinishE1 5b 1
97The Arete BoulderV1 6

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