Climbs 80
Rocktype Rhyolite

Faces E

BOING!!! © Barrez

Crag features

This extensive mountain crag has many historic and classic routes, eg the splendid Amphitheatre Buttress (*** VDiff), all 960 ft of it, undoubtedly a contender for the best VDiff in the UK. Multi-pitch routes to 300m+, with Mur Y Niwl (VS) and Aura (E2) also worth doing.

Approach notes

A few hundred metres west of Helyg on the Capel Curig to Bangor road (A5) is the start of a tarmac access road (SH687603) which strikes directly up the hillside northwards. Parking is available at Gwern Gof Isaf, some 200 metres towards Bangor. Rapid entry is required by the Mountain Rescue Teams and the farmer, so do NOT park in front ofthe locked gate! Follow the tarmac road through several gates to a fairly level section. Just where the road bears left, fork off right along a narrow footpath over a rise to a contour above the llyn; this is the Ffynnon Llugwy, Spring of the Conwy. The path then strikes up the hillside to zigzags and Bwlch Eryl Farchog (Pass of Eryl the Knight). Either follow paths down to the base of the crags or continue up the ridge above the cliff to the top of the Amphitheatre. Approx one hour from the road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ogwen and Carneddau (1993)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Truant Rib
-
D  
2 The Banister
-
S 1
3 The Staircase
-
VD  
4 Gomorrah
-
S 1
5 Spiral Route
-
VS 4a  
6 Angle Groove
-
VS 4b  
7 Arch Gully
-
D 1
8 Cirque Rib
-
HVS 5a  
9 Arch Wall
-
HS 4a  
10 Arch Wall VI 7 ** 3
11 Cobweb Wall
-
S  
12 Bending Gully
-
D 1
13 Heron Slab
-
HS 3b  
14 The Slab Climb
-
VD  
15 Birch Tree Chimney
-
D  
16 Avalanche Buttress
-
VD 6
17 Original Route
-
VD 1
18 Beaumont's Chimney
-
S 1
19 Troglodyte
-
HS 3b  
20 Sigma
-
D 1
21 Enigma
-
S 1
  Amphitheatre Buttress
23 Avalanche Gully
-
D 5
24 Amphitheatre Buttress VD *** 1353
25 Figure Of Eight
-
VS 4b 1
26 Pieces Of Eight
-
VS 4b  
27 Sentry Box Crack
-
HS 3b 1
28 Dover Road
-
VS 4c&a2 1
29 Cockroach Crack
-
S  
30 Reed Rake
-
D  
31 Whirlwind
-
E3 5c *  
32 El Nino
-
E3 6a  
33 Drought
-
E4 5c  
34 Coffin Scoop
-
HS 3b  
35 One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest
-
VS 4c 5
36 Cradle Chimney
-
VD  
37 Mother's Little Helper E2 5b 1
38 The Nameless Rib
-
D 5
39 B Gully
-
VD 1
40 Amphitheatre Rib D 10
41 C Gully
-
D 1
42 D Gully
-
M 3
43 The Crack
-
VS 4c 1
  Mur y Niwl
45 Plumbagin E1 5b * 11
46 Solid Air
-
E3 5c ** 2
47 Turn The Centuries, Turn
-
E3 6a *  
48 Aura E2 5b *** 94
49 Griseofulvin E3 5c * 2
50 Mur y Niwl VS 4c *** 417
51 Mur Y Niwl Direct
-
HVS 5a * 2
52 Faenaldo
-
E3 5c  
53 Amadeus E4 6a *  
54 Mother Of Mercy
-
E5 6a **  
55 Agrippa E1 5a ** 14
56 Craig Yr Ysfa Amphitheatre 2 * 31
57 Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall
-
E1 5b *** 9
58 Limax
-
VD  
59 Carpet Baggers
-
E1 5b&a0  
60 Clean Rib
-
VD  
61 Skyline Chimey
-
D  
  Pinnacle Wall
63 Gettysburg HVS 5b * 1
64 The Grimmett VS 4c ** 84
65 Excalibur E2 5b * 5
66 Spiral Scratch E2 5b * 3
67 Pinnaclissima E2 5c *** 63
68 Ancient's Wall
-
E3 5c  
69 The Haunted E5 6a ** 1
70 Pinnacle Wall S 4a *** 273
71 Sea Of Dreams
-
E3 5c **  
72 Low Climb
-
VD  
73 Nether Climb
-
S * 2
74 Vanishing Gully
-
VD 1
75 Great Gully VD ** 223
76 Great Gully (Winter)
-
IV *** 20
77 Great Gully Left Wall Exit
-
VD  
78 Great Gully Right Wall Exit
-
VD 1
79 Great Gully Pinnacle Direct
-
VS  
80 Invisible Chimey
-
D  
81 Great Gully Wall
-
E2 5b&a0 *  
82 Shean Treuse
-
VS 4c  
83 Eigiau 'out there' trip
-
VI 7 ***  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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