Climbs 65
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces S

Clean, delicate, bold and exposed. © Fiend

Crag features

A collection of south facing schist crags on the northern side of the glen offering good climbing in a sunny location, with a short but steep approach and worthy of much more attention than they receive. The lower and middle crags mainly offer lower and mid grade routes, whilst the upper crags are of most interest to E grade leaders.

Approach notes

Park at the big 'Honeymoon Bridge' layby at GR258043 on the A83 going from arrochar up towards the rest and be thankful. Walk up the old road (parallel to the A83) until a rough path leads off right past some small walls on the left to the Middle Crag. The Upper crag is a further 5 minutes walk above the middle crag.

climbed these crags as fa with jim dival in the 80s very fond momories of long summer nights and the mighty midge, last climb i did was fear on i think the middle crag to old to climb now
Ray Cluer - 20/Mar/06
Few minutes walk from the Car Park, Bit boggy under foot. First Tier is very slabby, not a lot of pro, but some simple easy bouldering up to 5c ish Second Tier, Nice Layback crack STUDENTS ROUTE S 4a, easy to get first bit of Pro in if your tall. To the left we also did a 5a crack, not Adj grade to it tho?? 3 x 5a moves stacked, nice short problem/route with lots of gear, which can be hard to place due to the moves. Didnt make it up to the Third Tiar. Belay Stakes on 2nd tier are a long way from the crag edge, with rope stretch a potential problem, suggest taking a length of Static rope to set up the belays. We used 50m of Dynamic to set up a 2 point anchor and the remainder only just touched down for the second. 30m of Static should be enough.
Lancs Lad - 05/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Approach Walls
2 The Smee Merchant HVS 5a 3
3 The Handrail Effect HVS 5b 2
4 The Right Handrail Effect E1 5c 1
5 The Pocket Poseur
-
V1 5a 3
  Lower Crag
7 Cluer's Clue V1 5c 4
8 Shirley V0 5a 5
9 Under Arrest V0 5a 5
  Middle Crag
11 Good Day Sunshine
-
VS 4b 22
12 Rita
-
VS 4c 16
13 Michelle
-
HVS 4c 13
14 Alabasta
-
E2 5c * 3
15 Lady Madonna VS 5a * 28
16 Polythene Pam
-
HVS 5a * 19
17 Polyethylene Man E2 6a ** 2
18 Doris
-
VS 4b * 31
19 Dear Prudence
-
HVS 5a 16
20 Student's Route
-
S 4a * 60
21 Pockets of Excellence E5 6a ** 8
22 Roadmans Crack
-
HVS 5a * 11
23 The Cost of Living
-
E2 6a * 5
24 P.C.31
-
E1 5c 5
25 Lucy in the Sky
-
E1 5b 12
26 Cadbury's E1 5a * 6
  Upper Crag
28 Zigzag
-
VD * 17
29 Outside Edge HVS 4c * 14
30 All Heroes Die Young E3 6a * 3
31 Marabou Stork Nightmares E6 6b * 2
32 Love Buzz E7 6b 1
33 Ledgeislation E2 5c 1
34 The Hooded Groove
-
E2 5c ** 24
35 Crossover
-
E1 5b 12
36 The Edge of Insanity E4 5c ** 7
37 The Fugue E9 6c ***  
38 Short Sharp Shock
-
E4 6a ** 4
39 Double Clutching
-
E3 6a * 1
40 Prime Ape
-
E3 6a  
41 Fear
-
HVS 5a 8
42 Quartzymodo
-
E1 5c  
43 Breakdance
-
E2 5c  
44 Pegomaniac
-
E3 5c  
45 Cosmic Corner
-
VS 4b 4
46 Boulder Dash VS 4c 2
47 The Sharp Kiss
-
E3 6a *  
48 Tick Tock
-
E6 6b ***  
49 Litterbug
-
E1 5b *  
50 Quartz Slab
-
E2 5b 2
51 Quartz Crack
-
E2 5b 3
  Independence Crag
53 Imposition
-
E4 5c *  
54 New Position E2 5c * 3
  So Far Away Buttress
56 Aftershock E3 5c ** 1
57 Give Us A Break E1 5b * 3
58 The Nitty-gritty Dirt Route
-
E1 5a  
59 Rough and Tumble
-
E1 5b  
  Great Slab
61 The Incredible Hulk E5 6a **  
62 Lapland E1 5a *  
63 The Ladder
-
VS 4b  
64 Fearless
-
HVS 4c * 1
65 Rock Sculpture E3 5c * 1
  Viz Buttress
67 Bollocks
-
E3 6a *  
68 Mad Midgies V0+ * 1

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