Climbs 25
Rocktype Gabbro

Faces NW

Crag features

Steep but excellent climbing. Best routes Mad Mutt (E4 6a) and Goneril (E4 5c).

Approach notes

Descend grass slopes and easy rock to a gully and wide rock ramp. (NB the ramp is very slippery when wet.)

Access Advice

Excellent steep routes on solid, rough rock, with single and two pitch routes. Access to main crag is via a straightforward scramble to large, non-tidal sloping ledges. Access to seaward cliff is via abseil then scrambling from Craig Coetan.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

New restriction - there is a nest in the area of 'Morfran'.  Please do not climb the following routes 1st March to 1st August; 'Sunset Rib' to 'Regan'.  This is the extreme right side of the main cliff and the left side of the seaward cliff.  Locals will monitor the site and restriction will be removed if birds do not nest.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dupiaza HVS 5a * 4
2 Dimril
-
VS 4b * 8
3 Goneril E4 5c ** 4
4 Cordelia HVS 5a ** 2
5 Nonesuch
-
HS 4b 2
6 Morfran E1 5b5a * 1
7 Slab Route VS 4b4b 1
8 The Nose S 1
9 Maharishi
-
VS 4c * 1
10 Dangler E1 5a 2
11 Negative Waves E1 5a 1
12 Wavelength HVS 5a 1
13 Mad Mutt E5 6a **  
14 Sheik an' Vak *
-
E1 5b * 1
15 Flight of the Falcon *
-
E3 5c * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU