UKC

Climbs 110
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1200m a.s.l
Faces E

Nearly there! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

In winter the Aonach's provide great climbing and due to the altitude are fairly reliable and the Gondola makes access easy.

East Face
Coire an Lochain forms a perfect bowl and features a prominent buttress (The Prow) and a series of grooves (Ribbed Walls). Note that cornice build up can be huge and potentially quite dangerous, particularly during a thaw or later in the season when the east face catches a lot of sunshine.

West Face
Despite the proximity to the ski area, the West Face feels remote and adventurous. Most of the route lie directly below the summit of Aonach Mor, and finish just by the summit cairn. Routes are often in condition through the winter, and recover quickly after a thaw. Many variations exist on all the routes, which follow long and continuous granite ribs or gullies.

Approach notes

From the Gondola car park follow a path up to a forest track, turn right to a small dam, and then head up to the Gondola station (or take the Gondola to this point).

East Face: Follow the line of ski-tows to the end and drop down Easy Gully to the crag.

West Face: Take the path west from the bottom of the Quad Chair, before dropping steeply to the Allt Daim. The Summit Ribs are approx. 2km to the SW.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Aonach Mor summit
-
summit 429
  North East Face
3 Sprint Gully III 1
4 President's Buttress III  
5 Hidden Gully
-
II * 9
6 Ribbon On Edge IV 6 *  
7 Sideline III 4
  The Prow
9 Unnamed (Short Groove) III 1
10 Riptide IV 4  
11 Back Street Boogie VI 6 *  
12 The Betrayal IV 4 1
13 The Wave V 5 1
14 The Guardian
-
IV 5 * 13
15 Pro Libertate V 6 ** 1
16 The Prow VIII 8 ** 1
17 Stirling Bridge
-
VI 7 *** 32
  Homo Buttress
19 Ribbon Groove IV 4 * 2
20 Ribbon Variation IV 4 2
21 Gowan Hill VI 7 * 1
22 Homo Robusticus VI 7 ** 2
23 Piranha VII 8 * 3
24 The Human Bobsleigh II 3
25 The Web
-
II/III 59
26 Nausea
-
II/III 26
27 Spider Rib
-
II 19
28 History Won't Mind IV 5 * 2
29 Easy Gully I 171
  The Ribbed Walls
31 Muddy Waters III 16
32 Groove Armada IV 4 5
33 Barrel Buttress IV 4 2
34 Nid Arete IV 5 * 5
35 Nid Arete - Arete Start V 5 * 3
36 Temperance Union Blues
-
III * 30
37 Pernille III 9
38 Aquafresh
-
IV 4 * 40
39 White Shark IV 4 *** 150
Climb name Grade
40 Tinsel Town
-
V 4 ** 11
41 Remora III 4 1
42 Gondola With The Wind IV 5 * 5
43 Maneater
-
V 5 ** 11
44 Hammerhead Pillar VI 6 ** 4
45 Tunnel Vision Left Branch III 4 11
46 Tunnel Vision
-
III * 100
  Central Buttress
48 Shelf Route III 1
49 Morwind
-
IV 4 *** 124
50 Turf Walk
-
III 4 * 32
51 Roaring Forties
-
IV 4 * 20
52 Typhoon IV 4 *** 46
53 Hurricane Arete VI 7 ** 4
54 Alien Abduction VII 8 *** 3
  Twins Area
56 Left Twin
-
III *** 325
57 Siamese Twin IV 4 33
58 The Split IV 4 ** 20
59 Lickety Split IV 5 ** 6
60 Slick Mick's Groove IV 5 *  
61 Forgotten Twin
-
II * 156
62 Siamese Butress
-
II * 15
63 Right Twin
-
II *** 219
64 The Lost Boys IV 5 2
65 White Horses V 6 1
66 The Slever III 4 1
67 Pepperpot III 4  
68 Golden Promise VI 7 *  
69 Muck n' Brass VI 6 *  
70 Molar Canal III 4
  North Buttress
72 Grooved Arete
-
V 6 *** 21
73 Icicle Gully
-
III 4 * 37
74 Icicle Gully Direct III 5 3
75 Gentle Breeze Finish IV 4  
76 Force Ten Buttress
-
III 4 * 7
77 Force Ten Buttress Direct Finish
-
V 6 1
78 Solar Wind
-
IV 4 * 12
Climb name Grade
79 Jet Stream IV 4 *** 60
80 Jet Stream Direct Finish IV 5 23
81 Guides Variation IV 4  
82 North Buttress Route III 10
83 Foosyerneeps IV 5 ** 2
84 Lemming Ridge I 9
85 Perplexed III 4 3
  West Face
87 Unnamed Gully/Rib II 6
88 Ruth II * 5
89 Gully 2 II/III 1
90 Unnamed (suggest Plan B) III 4 2
91 Unnamed 3 II/III 4
92 Gully 3A II 1
93 Silver Specious (aka Random Rib) I * 2
94 Un-named icefall III 4 1
95 Gendarme Ridge M 1
96 Gendarme Ridge (aka Temperance Rib)
-
II 36
97 Downhill Gully I 8
98 Golden Oldie 2 ** 3
99 Golden Oldy II *** 424
100 Cave Gully II * 3
101 Western Rib 3 ** 2
102 Western Rib
-
III *** 185
103 Easter Gully II * 11
104 Daim Buttress III ** 56
105 Solitaire D 1
106 Solitaire
-
II * 11
107 Unnamed Route - Aonach Mor III * 4
108 Nid Ridge
-
I 10
  An Cul Choire
110 An Cul Choire Headwall 3 ** 1
111 Route 1, Aonach Seang (summer) D *  
112 Aonach Seang (winter) III  
  check location
114 Downstairs III 1
115 Lord's Groove IV 4 1
116 Spare Rib Gully
-
III * 10
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Moonstone Hippy