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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 112
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1221m a.s.l
Faces all

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Nearly there! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

In winter the Aonach's provide great climbing and due to the altitude are fairly reliable and the Gondola makes access easy.

East Face - Coire an Lochain forms a perfect bowl and features a prominent buttress (The Prow) and a series of grooves (Ribbed Walls). Note that cornice build up can be huge and potentially quite dangerous, particularly during a thaw or later in the season when the east face catches a lot of sunshine.

West Face - Despite the proximity to the ski area, the West Face feels remote and adventurous. Most of the route lie directly below the summit of Aonach Mor, and finish just by the summit cairn. Routes are often in condition through the winter, and recover quickly after a thaw. Many variations exist on all the routes, which follow long and continuous granite ribs or gullies.

Approach notes

From the Gondola carpark follow a path up to a forest track, turn right to a small dam, and then head up to the Gondola station (or take the Gondola to this point).

East Face - Follow the line of ski-tows to the end and drop down Easy Gully to the crag.

West Face - Take the path west from the bottom of the Quad Chair, before dropping steeply to the Allt Daim. The Summit Ribs are approx. 2km to the SW.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Aonach Mor summit
-
summit 491
  North East Face
3 Sprint Gully III 1
4 President's Buttress III  
5 Hidden Gully
-
II * 9
6 Ribbon On Edge IV 6 *  
7 Sideline III 4
  The Prow
9 Unnamed (Short Groove) III 1
10 Riptide IV 4  
11 Back Street Boogie VI 6 *  
12 The Betrayal IV 5 * 1
13 The Wave V 5 * 1
14 The Guardian IV 5 ** 13
15 Pro Libertate V 6 ** 1
16 The Prow VIII 8 ** 1
17 Stirling Bridge VI 7 *** 36
  Homo Buttress
19 Ribbon Groove IV 4 * 2
20 Ribbon Variation IV 4 ** 2
21 Gowan Hill VI 7 * 1
22 Homo Robusticus VI 7 ** 2
23 Piranha VII 8 * 3
24 The Human Bobsleigh II 3
25 The Web
-
II/III 59
26 Nausea
-
II/III 26
27 Spider Rib II 20
28 History Won't Mind IV 5 * 4
29 Easy Gully I 182
  The Ribbed Walls
31 Muddy Waters III * 16
32 Groove Armada IV 4 5
33 Barrel Buttress IV 4 3
34 Nid Arete IV 5 * 5
35 Nid Arete - Arete Start V 5 * 5
36 Temperance Union Blues III * 30
37 Pernille III 9
38 Aquafresh IV 4 * 40
39 White Shark IV 5 *** 153
40 Tinsel Town IV 5 ** 13
41 Remora III 4 1
42 Gondola With The Wind IV 5 * 5
43 Maneater V 5 ** 11
Climb name Grade
44 Hammerhead Pillar VI 6 ** 4
45 Tunnel Vision Left Branch III * 11
46 Tunnel Vision III * 101
  Central Buttress
48 Shelf Route III 1
49 Morwind IV 4 *** 132
50 Turf Walk III 4 * 35
51 Roaring Forties IV 4 * 21
52 Typhoon IV 4 *** 47
53 Hurricane Arete VI 7 ** 4
54 Alien Abduction VII 8 *** 3
  Twins Area
56 Left Twin III 4 *** 332
57 Siamese Twin IV 4 33
58 The Split IV 4 ** 25
59 Lickety Split IV 5 ** 8
60 Slick Mick's Groove IV 5 *  
61 Forgotten Twin II * 159
62 Siamese Butress II * 15
63 Right Twin II *** 228
64 The Lost Boys IV 5 * 2
65 White Horses V 6 1
66 The Slever III 4 1
67 Pepperpot III 4  
68 Golden Promise VI 7 *  
69 Muck n' Brass VI 6 *  
70 White Bait IV 5 *  
71 Molar Canal III * 4
  North Buttress
73 Grooved Arete V 6 ** 25
74 Icicle Gully IV 4 * 40
75 Icicle Gully Direct III 5 4
76 Gentle Breeze Finish IV 4  
77 Force Ten Buttress IV 4 * 7
78 Force Ten Buttress Direct Finish
-
V 6 1
79 Solar Wind IV 4 * 12
80 Jet Stream IV 4 *** 62
81 Jet Stream Direct Finish IV 5 *** 23
82 Guides Variation IV 4  
83 North Buttress Route III * 12
84 Foosyerneeps IV 5 ** 4
85 Lemming Ridge I 9
86 Perplexed III 4 3
Climb name Grade
87 Moonpig IV 5 **  
88 Slipstream IV 5  
  West Face
90 Unnamed Gully/Rib II 6
91 Ruth II * 5
92 Gully 2 II/III 1
93 Unnamed (suggest Plan B) III 4 2
94 Unnamed 3 II/III 4
95 Gully 3A II 1
96 Silver Specious (aka Random Rib) I * 6
97 Un-named icefall III 4 1
98 Gendarme Ridge M 1
99 Gendarme Ridge (aka Temperance Rib)
-
II 39
100 Downhill Gully I 8
101 Golden Oldie 2 ** 7
102 Golden Oldy II *** 483
103 Cave Gully II * 3
104 Western Rib 3 ** 3
105 Western Rib III *** 237
106 Easter Gully II 13
107 Daim Buttress III ** 66
108 Solitaire (Summer) D 1
109 Solitaire (Winter) II * 12
110 Unnamed Route - Aonach Mor III * 4
111 Nid Ridge
-
I 12
  An Cul Choire
113 An Cul Choire Headwall 3 ** 1
114 Aonach Seang (Summer) D *  
115 Aonach Seang (Winter) III  
  check location
117 Downstairs III 1
118 Lord's Groove IV 4 1
119 Spare Rib Gully
-
III * 10
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  The Prow & Homo Buttress
122 Streamline III  
123 Whitecap Gully IV 5  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Aonach Mòr - West Face Routes
126 The Red Eye Routine III 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Shark Buttress
  Ribbed Walls & Shark Buttress
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Moonstone Hippy