Climbs 110
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1200m a.s.l
Faces E

Nearly there! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

In winter the Aonach's provide great climbing and due to the altitude are fairly reliable and the Gondola makes access easy.

East Face

Coire an Lochain forms a perfect bowl and features a prominent buttress (The Prow) and a series of grooves (Ribbed Walls). Note that cornice build up can be huge and potentially quite dangerous, particularly during a thaw or later in the season when the east face catches a lot of sunshine.

West Face

Despite the proximity to the ski area, the West Face feels remote and adventurous. Most of the route lie directly below the summit of Aonach Mor, and finish just by the summit cairn. Routes are often in condition through the winter, and recover quickly after a thaw. Many variations exist on all the routes, which follow long and continuous granite ribs or gullies.

Approach notes

From the Gondola car park follow a path up to a forest track, turn right to a small dam, and then head up to the Gondola station (or take the Gondola to this point).

East Face: Follow the line of ski-tows to the end and drop down Easy Gully to the crag.

West Face: Take the path west from the bottom of the Quad Chair, before dropping steeply to the Allt Daim. The Summit Ribs are approx. 2km to the SW.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Aonach Mor summit
-
summit 374
2 Lord's Groove IV 4 1
3 Downstairs III 1
  North East Face
5 Sprint Gully III 1
6 President's Buttress III  
7 Hidden Gully
-
II * 9
8 Ribbon On Edge IV 6 *  
9 Sideline III 4
  The Prow
11 Unnamed (Short Groove) III 1
12 Riptide IV 4  
13 Back Street Boogie VI 6 *  
14 The Betrayal IV 4 1
15 The Wave V 5 1
16 The Guardian
-
IV 5 * 13
17 Stirling Bridge
-
VI 7 *** 31
  Homo Buttress
19 Ribbon Groove IV 4 * 2
20 Ribbon Variation IV 4 2
21 Gowan Hill VI 7 * 1
22 Homo Robusticus VI 7 ** 2
23 Piranha VII 8 * 3
24 The Human Bobsleigh II 3
25 The Web
-
II/III 59
26 Nausea
-
II/III 26
27 Spider Rib
-
II 19
28 History Won't Mind IV 5 * 2
29 Easy Gully I 165
  The Ribbed Walls
31 Muddy Waters III 15
32 Groove Armada IV 4 4
33 Barrel Buttress IV 4 2
34 Nid Arete IV 5 * 4
35 Temperance Union Blues
-
III * 30
36 Pernille III 8
37 Aquafresh
-
IV 4 * 39
38 White Shark IV 4 *** 136
39 Tinsel Town
-
V 4 ** 10
40 Remora III 4 1
41 Gondola With The Wind IV 5 * 5
42 Maneater
-
V 5 ** 11
43 Hammerhead Pillar VI 6 ** 4
44 Tunnel Vision Left Branch III 4 11
45 Tunnel Vision
-
III * 96
  Central Buttress
47 Shelf Route III 1
48 Morwind
-
III 4 *** 116
49 Turf Walk
-
III 4 * 31
50 Roaring Forties
-
IV 4 * 16
51 Typhoon IV 4 *** 40
52 Hurricane Arete VI 7 ** 4
53 Alien Abduction VII 8 *** 3
  Twins Area
55 Left Twin
-
III *** 297
56 Siamese Twin IV 4 31
57 The Split IV 4 ** 19
58 Lickety Split IV 5 ** 6
59 Slick Mick's Groove IV 5 *  
60 Forgotten Twin
-
II * 153
61 Siamese Butress
-
II * 15
62 Right Twin
-
II *** 206
63 The Lost Boys IV 5 2
64 White Horses V 6 1
65 The Slever III 4 1
66 Pepperpot III 4  
67 Golden Promise VI 7 *  
68 Muck n' Brass VI 6 *  
69 Molar Canal III 4
  North Buttress
71 Grooved Arete
-
V 6 *** 20
72 Icicle Gully
-
III 4 * 36
73 Icicle Gully Direct III 5 3
74 Gentle Breeze Finish IV 4  
75 Force Ten Buttress
-
III 4 * 6
76 Force Ten Buttress Direct Finish
-
V 6 1
77 Solar Wind
-
IV 4 * 12
78 Jet Stream IV 4 *** 56
79 Jet Stream Direct Finish IV 5 23
80 Guides Variation IV 4  
81 North Buttress Route III 10
82 Foosyerneeps IV 5 ** 2
83 Lemming Ridge I 7
  West Face
85 Downhill Gully I 7
86 Golden Oldy II *** 462
87 Western Rib
-
III *** 174
88 Easter Gully II * 9
89 Daim Buttress III ** 44
90 Solitaire
-
II * 11
91 Unnamed Route - Aonach Mor III * 4
92 Nid Ridge
-
I 10
  Moved climbs
94 Gendarme Ridge
-
II 28
95 Spare Rib Gully
-
III * 7
96 Western Rib (summer) 3 ** 2
97 Un-named icefall III 4 1
98 Ruth II * 2
99 Unnamed gully/rib II 6
100 Gully 2 II/III 1
101 Gully 3A II 1
102 Unnamed (suggest Plan B) III 4 2
103 Pro Libertate
-
V 6 ** 1
104 The Prow VIII 8 ** 1
105 Perplexed IV 4 2
106 Silver Specious I * 1
107 Random Rib I/II * 1
108 Unnamed 3 II/III 2
109 Cave Gully II * 3
110 Cor-nice day for it. III 4 1
111 Temperance Rib II * 5
112 Left Hand Ridge II  
113 Golden Oldie (summer) 2 ** 3
114 Solitaire (summer) D 1
115 An Cul Choire Headwall 3 ** 1
116 Route 1, Aonach Seang (summer) * D *  
117 Aonach Seang (winter) * III  
118 Gendarme Ridge (summer) M 1
119 Nid Arete - Arete Start * V 5 * 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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