Climbs 38
Rocktype Gabbro

Faces NW

Fun down on St Davids head © pickford_rich

Crag features

Climbs mostly in the VDiff - VS range; there is an E5 6b (Sharksville) but it is out of character for the crag.

Approach notes

Bird ban Feb 1 - July 31 on lower tier and L half of upper tier.

Abseil (beware old peg) or climb down 4-5m L of the gully (Diff) and move L along line of ledges to join quartz ledge system.

Just had an afternoon visit on a blazing hot day. Only did a couple of simple routes but was genuinely impressed with the crag, the views, the climbing and most of all the rock! Simply superb in terms of gear, friction and climbing. Reminded me of the easier routes at Bosigran and that is not faint praise. Really looking forward to a future visit and there is definitely potential for new lines.
Zoomer - 11/Sep/14
Working on adding the missing climbs and general tidy up of this crag page - should also have a photo or two of the area to help locate lines in the next week or two
Matt88 - 27/Jul/13
I've un-moderated myself. I haven't logged in in ages.
pishmishy - 19/Jul/13
Great to see such exemplary crag moderation!
Mark Davies PK - 17/Jul/13
This crag is actually Quartz Gabbro ( a bit like granite)not sandstone. Some great routes inc. Fuzzy Peg (severe, Act of God and LBJ (V.S.) and Sharksville (E5).
Steve Quinton - 20/Oct/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Tier
2 Sharksville
-
E5 6b **  
3 Cragmonsters
-
E2 5b  
4 Act of God VS 4c ** 89
5 Integrity S 4a 5
6 Wall Climb VD 13
7 L.B.J.
-
VS 4c * 42
8 Stroll On
-
VD 8
9 M.L.K * HS 4b * 1
  Upper Tier
11 Seaview Groove
-
D 2
12 Green Man
-
VD 12
13 Corridor
-
D 15
14 Libra
-
S 25
15 Zig-Zag
-
D 41
16 surprise slabs S 15
17 Central Route S 4a 31
18 Silmaril
-
S 4a * 49
19 Silmaril Direct VS 4c * 34
20 Fuzzy Peg S 4a * 103
21 Dinner Date
-
E1 5b 3
22 Coetan Crack
-
VS 4c 17
23 Flake-fake
-
HS 4b 25
24 Hors D'Oeuvre
-
HVS 5b 3
25 Subsidiary Crack
-
D 4
26 Coettan Gully
-
VD 8
27 Straight-up VS 4c 1
  South Buttress
29 Ostentatious
-
E1 5b 2
30 yankeedoddle
-
S 4a 6
31 Coetan Buttress
-
VD 4
32 The Nose
-
S 4
33 Diamond Buttress
-
S 4a 13
  Penmaen Coetan
35 Pass On
-
D 5
36 Pass It
-
HS 4b 5
37 Take In
-
VS 5a 1
38 Fly Past S 8
39 Silmaril Super Direct HVS 5a  
40 Nostril VS  
41 Summer Holiday
-
E1 5b * 4
42 For All Intents and Porpoises S 4b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU