Climbs 62
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

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Matt on "Box of Delights", Vicarage Cliff, North Devon © Paul Evans

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with short pleasant routes up to 90ft. Solid rock, an added bonus. Best offer is Box Of Delights (HS 4b).

Approach notes

Tidal - must be half-tide or less to reach base of routes.

(Approach update) at the southern end of the beach there is an in-situ rope which provides a mellow access


Best approach: Follow coastal path from Morwenstowe Church. From the promontory to the south of Hawkers Hut, where a stream runs down, is a steep descent path about 50ft seawards of the main cliff line. About 20ft below the top is an old but solid metal stake hidden in a hollow which is good for a handline. An old 50m rope will just reach the beach. [Thanks, Andy Ashley.]
Alternative - and less safe: start descent at Hawkers Hut, to a long low promontory with a conspicuous tower halfway along. Take the steep grass slopes down to the beach near the mouth of Tidna Stream.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Approach handline in place & in good Nick May 19
Steveb27 - 19/May/19
i think there is a route missing from this! inbetween "crazy paving" and "in memoriam". instead of climbing on the right hand of the rib of "in memoriam", sticking to the left hand side only. well above HS! i believe it to be an E1 5b. very balancy, very crumbly rock too.
mackay780 - 23/Sep/11
romping robert is no more!!! its now defo on the beach!!!
bigrob - 03/May/10
Romping Robert may have suffered a rock fall? The left hand crack mentioned in the guide book now looks like an arete and there is a big slab of rock sitting on the beach!
leonjones - 15/Jun/09
an excellent little crag, with some v good HS-VS routes, espec if you like slab. a real suntrap. the descent off the back is a bit awkward and exposed, though when i was last there - a few years ago - there was tat to lower off. good caff for tea and scones, and pub, in morwenstowe.
cp - 14/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Barnacle Bill S 5a 3
2 Traverse of the Geriatrics HS 4b  
  Lucky Hole
4 Claire D * 26
5 The Non Conformist f8A *** 3
6 Bison Bison
-
VD 5
7 Romping Robert VS 4c * 8
8 Rectory Tea Rooms HVS 5a 8
  The Promontory
10 The Anchor VD 14
11 A Dying Art
-
E1 6a 12
12 Pandora VS 4b ** 298
13 Lip Gloss HVS 5c 25
14 Catlin E1 5b 18
15 Sunstruck VS 4c * 193
16 Little Dribbler HVS 5a ** 255
17 Box of Delights HS 4b *** 548
18 Joi de Vivre HVS 5a * 151
19 Tombstone S 4a ** 424
20 Sol S 3c ** 328
21 Monster Race HS 4b 17
22 Wellington's Stand VS 4b ** 278
Climb name Grade
23 Ron Hill Variation S 4b 8
24 Exceptionally Smooth Bit Underside
-
S 4a 9
25 Vicarage Tower
-
VD 65
26 Spotted Dick S 180
27 Pissinonalampost S 1
28 The Sunken Whale HS 4b 2
29 Before Lunch HVS 5a 7
30 Wynot E1 5b 1
31 Harpoon E2 5b ** 126
32 High Living HVS 5a 8
33 Crazy Paving E1 5a 30
34 In Memoriam
-
HS 4a 89
35 Mad Mags' Parasol VS 4c 59
36 Velo Venom 500 VS 4c  
37 Big Willy Style HS 4a 11
38 Imback S 2
39 Choss and Chips S 16
40 The Loose XS 4a 1
41 C.U.Wen.I.C. VS 4b 4
42 Substitute HS 4b  
43 Cuboid
-
VS 4c 1
Climb name Grade
  The Landward Slabs
45 Hawkers Rib VD 4
46 More Tea, Vicar?
-
S  
47 The Bitch from the Bush S 1
48 Flaky Pastry VS 1
49 Rolling Rock HVS 5a 10
50 Grass Head E1 5a 5
51 Atom Head E1 5c * 57
52 Wobbly Block Slab V0- 1
53 Wobbly Block Arete VB 1
54 Wobbly Block Face VB 1
55 The Descent VB 1
56 Black Block Left Arete V1  
57 Black Block left Groove VB 1
58 Black Block Traverse V1  
59 Black Block Lay-Back V1 1
60 Black Block Center Wall V2 1
61 Black Block Right Groove V0- 1
62 Black Block Right Arete VB  
63 Middle Blocks Traverse V3  
64 Middle Blocks Middle V4 1
65 Middle Blocks Mega Traverse V3  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball