Climbs 62
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Matt on "Box of Delights", Vicarage Cliff, North Devon © Paul Evans

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with short pleasant routes up to 90ft. Solid rock, an added bonus. Best offer is Box Of Delights (HS 4b).

Approach notes

Tidal - must be half-tide or less to reach base of routes.

Best approach: Follow coastal path from Morwenstowe Church. From the promontory to the south of Hawkers Hut, where a stream runs down, is a steep descent path about 50ft seawards of the main cliff line. About 20ft below the top is an old but solid metal stake hidden in a hollow which is good for a handline. An old 50m rope will just reach the beach. [Thanks, Andy Ashley.]

Alternative - and less safe: start descent at Hawkers Hut, to a long low promontory with a conspicuous tower halfway along. Take the steep grass slopes down to the beach near the mouth of Tidna Stream.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
i think there is a route missing from this! inbetween "crazy paving" and "in memoriam". instead of climbing on the right hand of the rib of "in memoriam", sticking to the left hand side only. well above HS! i believe it to be an E1 5b. very balancy, very crumbly rock too.
mackay780 - 23/Sep/11
romping robert is no more!!! its now defo on the beach!!!
bigrob - 03/May/10
Romping Robert may have suffered a rock fall? The left hand crack mentioned in the guide book now looks like an arete and there is a big slab of rock sitting on the beach!
leonjones - 15/Jun/09
an excellent little crag, with some v good HS-VS routes, espec if you like slab. a real suntrap. the descent off the back is a bit awkward and exposed, though when i was last there - a few years ago - there was tat to lower off. good caff for tea and scones, and pub, in morwenstowe.
cp - 14/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Barnacle Bill S 5a 3
  Lucky Hole
3 Claire D * 25
4 The Non Conformist f8A *** 2
5 Bison Bison
-
VD 5
6 Romping Robert VS 4c * 8
7 Rectory Tea Rooms HVS 5a 8
  The Promontory
9 The Anchor VD 12
10 A Dying Art
-
E1 6a 8
11 Pandora VS 4b ** 252
12 Lip Gloss HVS 5c 25
13 Catlin E1 5b 17
14 Sunstruck VS 4c * 166
15 Little Dribbler HVS 5a ** 214
16 Box of Delights HS 4b *** 470
17 Joi de Vivre HVS 5a * 142
18 Tombstone S 4a ** 338
19 Sol S 3c ** 260
20 Monster Race HS 4b 17
21 Wellington's Stand VS 4b ** 237
22 Ron Hill Variation S 4b 4
23 Exceptionally Smooth Bit Underside
-
S 4a 9
24 Vicarage Tower
-
VD 57
25 Spotted Dick S 154
26 Pissinonalampost S 1
27 The Sunken Whale HS 4b 2
28 Before Lunch HVS 5a 4
29 Wynot E1 5b 1
30 Harpoon E2 5b ** 136
31 High Living HVS 5a 10
32 Crazy Paving E1 5a 27
33 In Memoriam
-
HS 4a 84
34 Mad Mags' Parasol VS 4c 59
35 Velo Venom 500 VS 4c  
36 Big Willy Style HS 4a 9
37 Imback S 2
38 Choss and Chips S 16
39 C.U.Wen.I.C. VS 4b 4
40 Substitute HS 4b  
41 Cuboid
-
VS 4c 1
  The Landward Slabs
43 Hawkers Rib VD 4
44 More Tea, Vicar?
-
S  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Jelly Mould Surfer