Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Great Tor. © davidbeynon

Crag features

Mostly short (up to 18m) routes, but some longer routes (with one 73m multi-pitch VD) on the Great Tor, which lies inland. Many of the routes are easy, sub-E1, rising from the beach.

Working out which routes is which can be hard on some of the sea faces - they look identical and have the same grade.

Approach notes

Tidal on most routes. The tide comes in very fast - it's a flat beach - so ensure your belayer can move quickly, or you can. Accessible three hours either side of low tide.

From Penmaen, park on the A4118 near the Post Office and village store. Path E, fork R, to find the back of Great Tor.

From Three Cliffs Bay, walk around the headland at low tide, or over the clifftops at higher times.

Currently a pair of peregrines nesting by the second belay on East Ridge (26/04/15)

Recently did the variation of the four pitch East Ridge on the Great Tor(HS 4b,4b). A nice simple introduction to multipitching, but after the first two pitches was a scramble. The last two pitches I lead in one, Gower Guide says its 73m, would say more like 60 and has a 3 star rating, dont think it's worth 3 stars. Dissapointing overall, except for the view from the top, stunning, able to see from Graves End to Oxwich bay.
uwsmc - 24/Jun/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Col 
VD 47
3KestrelS 22
VD 41
S *29
VD 11
HS 4c 10
8Cratered Wall AreteVS 5a 1
 East Ridge Area 
10Ginger Groover
VD 9
11East RidgeVD 3c **414
12East Ridge VariationsHS 4b 202
 West From The Col 
14Scrambled SlabVS 4b 5
15Gower Cut
E6 6c 2
16Southern Freeze
E1 5b 7
17DirectE1 5a 3
E4 6a **2
19North Corner
HVS 5a 2
20South Edge
HS 4a *31
 Great Tor Lower Tier 
22South Wall
HVS 5a *14
23South CrackS 3
24Two Cracks
HS 4b 10
25West Chimney
S 4a 10
26Left Edge
S 12
27Bubbly Wall
VS 4c 11
28West Corner
D 10
VS 4c 6
30Preuss Crack
HS 4b *10
31Curving Corner
VS 4c 6
32Direct II
HVS 4c 5

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