Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Great Tor. © davidbeynon

Crag features

Mostly short (up to 18m) routes, but some longer routes (with one 73m multi-pitch VD) on the Great Tor, which lies inland. Many of the routes are easy, sub-E1, rising from the beach.

Working out which routes is which can be hard on some of the sea faces - they look identical and have the same grade.

Approach notes

Tidal on most routes. The tide comes in very fast - it's a flat beach - so ensure your belayer can move quickly, or you can. Accessible three hours either side of low tide.

From Penmaen, park on the A4118 near the Post Office and village store. Path E, fork R, to find the back of Great Tor.

From Three Cliffs Bay, walk around the headland at low tide, or over the clifftops at higher times.

Currently a pair of peregrines nesting by the second belay on East Ridge (26/04/15)

Recently did the variation of the four pitch East Ridge on the Great Tor(HS 4b,4b). A nice simple introduction to multipitching, but after the first two pitches was a scramble. The last two pitches I lead in one, Gower Guide says its 73m, would say more like 60 and has a 3 star rating, dont think it's worth 3 stars. Dissapointing overall, except for the view from the top, stunning, able to see from Graves End to Oxwich bay.
uwsmc - 24/Jun/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Col
2 Shag
-
VD 49
3 Kestrel S 24
4 Cormorant
-
VD 42
5 Magpie
-
S * 29
6 Chough
-
VD 13
7 Wandl
-
HS 4c 11
8 Cratered Wall Arete VS 5a 1
  East Ridge Area
10 Ginger Groover
-
VD 9
11 East Ridge VD 3c ** 436
12 East Ridge Variations HS 4b 210
  West From The Col
14 Scrambled Slab VS 4b 5
15 Gower Cut
-
E6 6c 2
16 Southern Freeze
-
E1 5b 7
17 Direct E1 5a 3
18 Mistral
-
E4 6a ** 2
19 North Corner
-
HVS 5a 2
20 South Edge
-
HS 4a * 31
  Great Tor Lower Tier
22 South Wall
-
HVS 5a * 14
23 South Crack S 4
24 Two Cracks
-
HS 4b 10
25 West Chimney
-
S 4a 11
26 Left Edge
-
S 12
27 Bubbly Wall
-
VS 4c 11
28 West Corner
-
D 10
29 Barnacle
-
VS 4c 6
30 Preuss Crack
-
HS 4b * 10
31 Curving Corner
-
VS 4c 6
32 Direct II
-
HVS 4c 5
33 Right Curving Corner
-
S 4c 2
34 Brown Slab
-
VD 4
35 Holey Wall
-
VD 3
36 Left Corner
-
VD 6
37 Direct I
-
HS 4b 7
38 Right Corner
-
D 6
39 Block Wall
-
VD 4
40 Central Crack I
-
D 12
41 Right Crack I
-
VD 6
42 Right Side
-
D 5
43 Left Pillar
-
HS 2
44 Central Crack II
-
S 4
45 Right Pillar
-
HVS 5a 2
46 Left Crack I VD 6
47 Another Quiet Night At Adrians VS 4b 5

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