Climbs 178
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 19m a.s.l
Faces S

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Great Tor. © d_b

Crag features

Lying between Oxwich and Three Cliffs Bay are a number of agreeable cliffs. Their surrounding golden beaches, sand dunes and tussocked gorse moorland, combined with an abundance of low grade single and multi-pitch routes makes the area ideal for families, novices and solo forays. Great Tor is the very prominent feature at the end of the headland separating Oxwich Bay from Three Cliff Bay. Little Tor is a smaller headland set back a couple of hundred metres west across the beach and West Tor is a little further west and well above the beach.

Approach notes

A parking bay on the A4118 next to the 'Old Post Office' (which no longer exists) in Penmaen, gives access via a wide gate on the left of the parking area, to a lane descending after 600 metres to a wooden gate. Directly after, a sandy path leads off right (west) across the plateau to the back of Tor Bay. Towards the end of the plateau one path bears left along the top of the cliff to the col at the top of Great Tor. Follow this path to access routes on the upper tier of Great Tor. For Great Tor East, take the left (east) gully down from the col to arrive at beach level.From the plateau a second twisting path descends right to beach level, from where Great Tor lies to the east (left) and Little Tor to the west (right). West Tor lies beyond Little Tor. It is possible to access West Tor from the cliff top path when the tide is in. Follow the cliff top path west from the end of the plateau to a point about 100m before the first stile and follow a steep trail down and left with care to reach Great Tor Upper Tier.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Only applies to the routes on the rarely climbed and loose south face. 
Great crag and good quality rock but extremely poor belay anchors at the top. Please see the photos I took of the belay pegs on April 2014. Protection is also very limited on the belay ledges so caution and experience applies.
pangeafoto - 23/Apr/14
This was a great day out. Lots of easy climbing and lots of good routes at HS/VS grade. Nice and secluded, quiet, easy to find. Surprised this hasn't had a lot of traffic!
partz - 07/Nov/12
bottom third of odins wall area is covered in barnacles making it not very pleasant. much more than other areas near by
ross duffield - 20/Sep/09
an excellent little crag with climbs to suite a range of skills and styles. especially nice at sunset in the summer, sweet.
josephjones - 21/Dec/08
Recently did the variation of the four pitch East Ridge on the Great Tor(HS 4b,4b). A nice simple introduction to multipitching, but after the first two pitches was a scramble. The last two pitches I lead in one, Gower Guide says its 73m, would say more like 60 and has a 3 star rating, dont think it's worth 3 stars. Dissapointing overall, except for the view from the top, stunning, able to see from Graves End to Oxwich bay.
uwsmc - 24/Jun/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Tor
  Sea Level Slab
3 Fartlek E1 5c 29
4 Central Crack VD 57
5 Right Crack VD 22
6 Guy Fawking of the Legs E1 5a 4
7 Crimps and Slots VD  
8 Accident at the Knave E1 5b  
9 End Crack VD 8
10 Burning Backsides HVS 5a  
  Main Slab
12 Left Corner VD 11
13 Curving Crack VS 4c * 51
14 Smooth Operator E3 6a 3
15 Innocent Savagery E1 5b 16
16 Diagonal (Popsi's Joy) VS 4c 17
17 Traverse VD 13
  Great Slab
19 Uno M  
20 Due VD  
21 Tre HS  
22 Nemesis S  
23 Right Rib D  
24 West Diedre S 1
25 Notched Rib S * 8
26 Electrico E3 6b 1
27 Right Edge (Cooking The Books) E1 5a 3
  Little Tor
29 Wall Climb II HS 4c 38
30 Central Crack VD 89
31 Wall Climb I HVS 5b 30
32 Thin Crack S 4b 76
33 Right Crack VD 54
34 Little White Pot HS 4b  
35 Left White HVS 5a 66
36 Right Corner S 126
37 Left Edge (Tri Cornel) VD 150
38 Centre Route VD 89
39 Left Flake Corner VD 199
40 Central Flake S 4a * 407
41 Flake Corner VD 155
42 Direct Centre S 60
43 Right Edge VD * 117
44 Knee Trembler VS 4c 1
45 Did You Ever Wish You Were a Dog? VD 6
  Little Star Wall
47 Blankety Blank E2 5c 7
48 Scout Crack S ** 349
49 Superdirect II E2 5c * 3
50 Superdirect E1 5c * 171
51 Twinkle S * 211
52 Twinkle Direct
-
VS 4c 103
53 Stella VS 4c 216
54 Twin Crack Left VD 244
55 The Cheeky Girl Eliminate D 10
56 Twin Crack Right D 163
57 Layback Solo D 19
  Great Tor
  Great Tor Lower Tier
60 Two Cracks
-
HS 4b 13
61 Piton Climb VS 5a 2
62 Dimpletown E3 6a *  
63 Only The Hardy E1 5a  
64 The Grunting Professor E1 5c  
65 Blow Monica E1 5c  
66 The Cramps In The Cold E2 5c  
67 Mighty Mouse HVS 5b  
68 Third Time Lucky VS 4c  
Climb name Grade
69 The Ramp With No Holds E3 6a  
70 Term of Office E1 5b 1
71 Another Quiet Night at Adrians VS 4b 6
72 South Wall HVS 5a 17
73 West Chimney S 4b 14
74 Training for Ogmore HVS 5a 2
75 Love Bump HS 4a 1
76 South Crack S 6
77 Broken Wall D  
78 Left Edge S 13
79 Bubbly Wall VS 4b * 13
80 West Corner D 12
81 Barnacle VS 4c 7
82 Preuss Crack HS 4b * 11
83 Curving Corner VS 4c 6
84 Direct II HVS 4c 5
85 Right Curving Corner S 4c 3
86 Brown Slab VD 4
87 Holey Wall VD 4
88 Left Corner VD 6
89 Direct I HS 4b 7
90 Right Corner D 6
91 Block Wall VD 4
92 Central Crack I D * 12
93 Right Crack I VD 6
94 Right Side D 5
95 Left Pillar HS 2
96 Central Crack II S 4
97 Right Pillar HVS 5a 2
98 Left Crack I VD 6
99 Right Crack II D  
100 Cracked Up VD  
101 Cracked It D  
102 Central Route S  
103 Left Crack II D  
  West from the Col
105 Scrambled Slab VS 4b 6
106 Gower Cut E6 6b 2
107 Southern Freeze E1 5b 7
108 Mistral E4 6a ** 2
109 North Corner HVS 5a 3
110 Direct E1 5a 3
111 South Edge HS 4a 32
112 Great Folly HVS 4c 1
  East Ridge Area
114 Ginger Groover VD 9
115 East Ridge VD 3c ** 531
116 East Ridge Variations HS 4b *** 242
  The Col
118 Shag VD 53
119 Kestrel S 24
120 Cormorant VD 43
121 Magpie S * 30
122 Chough VD 13
123 Wandl HS 4c 12
124 Cratered Wall ArĂȘte VS 5a 1
  Shallow and Deep Cut Area
126 Stefan Hermann and the Mothers of Invention HS 4a 2
127 Careless McGee HVD 2
128 Another Brixius in the Wall M 2
129 Left Edge VD 6
130 The Camille Wester Fan Club VS 4c  
131 Chasm HVD 3
132 Left Crack S * 3
133 Right Edge M 5
134 Arcelor Bandit VD 3
135 LEG and Jakob's Triple Trigger ABS Restructuring D 3
Climb name Grade
  Odin's Cave
137 Obscenities E4 6b  
138 Another Fine Mess S  
  Odin's Wall
140 Left Corner and Crack HVS 5a 43
141 Cave Crack Direct VS 4b * 27
142 Cave Crack HS 4b 37
143 Direct VS 5a 39
144 Gale Force E1 5a 1
145 Overlooked VS 4c 6
146 Fiechtl S 49
147 Wide Crack D 31
148 Happy Feet S 4a 6
149 Pillar Crack D 6
150 Girdle Traverse VS 4c 3
  Odin's Wall East Facet
  Second Pillar
153 Left Corner D 6
154 South Wall D 4
155 East Edge D 4
156 Wall and Corner VD 8
157 Left Crack D 3
  First Pillar
159 South Face D 3
160 Left Edge S 2
161 Left Pillar Direct VD 7
162 East Corner Crack D 3
  Second Corner
164 Left Corner D 7
165 Buttress M 5
166 Sharp Edge VD 2
167 The Nose HS 4a 3
168 Quartz Slab VD 5
169 Right Block Buttress S 1
  The South Wall
171 Dr. Focke's Pension Fund HVS 5b 2
172 South Chimney and Slab VD * 4
173 Left ArĂȘte S 4c 2
174 RIP Norman D  
175 Taste of Spring Chicken S  
176 Scary Cow Don't Jump E1 5c 1
  Monty's Slab
178 Master Bates Smear HVS 5b  
179 Monty's Slab HS 5a  
  First Corner
181 Shoulda Brought a Beer Towel HVS 5b * 6
182 Steve Get Naked S 4a * 5
183 The Road to Azerbaijan E1 5b * 4
184 Onion Cocaine E2 5b * 3
185 Onion Crack (Weeping Crack) VS 5a * 16
186 Left Corner Block Wall D  
187 Block Wall S 4a 3
188 Central Pillar HS 4b  
189 Cave and Balcony Blow-Hole VD  
190 Right Corner M 4
191 Seaweed Slalom HVS 5a 3
192 Hole Slab D 4
193 Proud Slab D 3
  High Slab
195 Gardeners Question Time E2 5c * 2
  Bendrick Rock
197 Lucy Slab VD  
198 Look-out Lucy D  
199 Mighty Mouth HVS 3
200 Looking for the Lee D 1
  Ramp Zawn
202 Cracked Slab VD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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