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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 19m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Great Tor. © d_b

Crag features

Lying between Oxwich and Three Cliffs Bay are a number of agreeable cliffs. Their surrounding golden beaches, sand dunes and tussocked gorse moorland, combined with an abundance of low grade single and multi-pitch routes makes the area ideal for families, novices and solo forays. Great Tor is the very prominent feature at the end of the headland separating Oxwich Bay from Three Cliff Bay. Little Tor is a smaller headland set back a couple of hundred metres west across the beach and West Tor is a little further west and well above the beach.

Approach notes

A parking bay on the A4118 next to the 'Old Post Office' (which no longer exists) in Penmaen, gives access via a wide gate on the left of the parking area, to a lane descending after 600 metres to a wooden gate. Directly after, a sandy path leads off right (west) across the plateau to the back of Tor Bay. Towards the end of the plateau one path bears left along the top of the cliff to the col at the top of Great Tor. Follow this path to access routes on the upper tier of Great Tor. For Great Tor East, take the left (east) gully down from the col to arrive at beach level.From the plateau a second twisting path descends right to beach level, from where Great Tor lies to the east (left) and Little Tor to the west (right). West Tor lies beyond Little Tor. It is possible to access West Tor from the cliff top path when the tide is in. Follow the cliff top path west from the end of the plateau to a point about 100m before the first stile and follow a steep trail down and left with care to reach Great Tor Upper Tier.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Only applies to the routes on the rarely climbed and loose south face. 
Great crag and good quality rock but extremely poor belay anchors at the top. Please see the photos I took of the belay pegs on April 2014. Protection is also very limited on the belay ledges so caution and experience applies.
pangeafoto - 23/Apr/14
This was a great day out. Lots of easy climbing and lots of good routes at HS/VS grade. Nice and secluded, quiet, easy to find. Surprised this hasn't had a lot of traffic!
partz - 07/Nov/12
bottom third of odins wall area is covered in barnacles making it not very pleasant. much more than other areas near by
ross duffield - 20/Sep/09
an excellent little crag with climbs to suite a range of skills and styles. especially nice at sunset in the summer, sweet.
josephjones - 21/Dec/08
Recently did the variation of the four pitch East Ridge on the Great Tor(HS 4b,4b). A nice simple introduction to multipitching, but after the first two pitches was a scramble. The last two pitches I lead in one, Gower Guide says its 73m, would say more like 60 and has a 3 star rating, dont think it's worth 3 stars. Dissapointing overall, except for the view from the top, stunning, able to see from Graves End to Oxwich bay.
uwsmc - 24/Jun/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Tor
  Sea Level Slab
3 Fartlek E1 5c 30
4 Central Crack VD 57
5 Right Crack VD 22
6 Guy Fawking of the Legs E1 5a 4
7 Crimps and Slots VD  
8 Accident at the Knave E1 5b  
9 End Crack VD 8
10 Burning Backsides HVS 5a  
11 The Great Little Tour of West Tor * f5 1
  Main Slab
13 Left Corner VD 11
14 Curving Crack VS 4c * 53
15 Smooth Operator E3 6a 3
16 Innocent Savagery E1 5b 16
17 Diagonal (Popsi's Joy) VS 4c 19
18 Traverse VD 13
  Great Slab
20 Uno M  
21 Due VD  
22 Tre HS  
23 Nemesis S  
24 Right Rib D  
25 West Diedre S 1
26 Notched Rib S * 8
27 Electrico E3 6b 1
28 Right Edge (Cooking The Books) E1 5a 3
  Little Tor
30 Wall Climb II HS 4c 39
31 Central Crack VD 90
32 Wall Climb I HVS 5b 30
33 Thin Crack S 4b 78
34 Right Crack VD 55
35 Little White Pot HS 4b 1
36 Left White HVS 5a 67
37 Right Corner S 126
38 Left Edge (Tri Cornel) VD 153
39 Centre Route VD 89
40 Left Flake Corner VD 202
41 Central Flake S 4a * 409
42 Flake Corner VD 156
43 Direct Centre S 60
44 Right Edge VD * 116
45 Knee Trembler VS 4c 1
46 Did You Ever Wish You Were a Dog? VD 6
  Little Star Wall
48 Blankety Blank E2 5c 7
49 Scout Crack S ** 351
50 Superdirect II E2 5c * 3
51 Superdirect E1 5c * 171
52 Twinkle S * 211
53 Twinkle Direct
-
VS 4c 103
54 Stella VS 4c 216
55 Twin Crack Left VD 247
56 The Cheeky Girl Eliminate D 10
57 Twin Crack Right D 166
58 Layback Solo D 21
  Great Tor
  Great Tor Lower Tier
61 Two Cracks
-
HS 4b 13
62 Piton Climb VS 5a 2
63 Dimpletown E3 6a *  
64 Only The Hardy E1 5a  
65 The Grunting Professor E1 5c  
66 Blow Monica E1 5c  
67 The Cramps In The Cold E2 5c  
68 Mighty Mouse HVS 5b  
Climb name Grade
69 Third Time Lucky VS 4c  
70 The Ramp With No Holds E3 6a  
71 Term of Office E1 5b 1
72 Another Quiet Night at Adrians VS 4b 6
73 South Wall HVS 5a 17
74 West Chimney S 4b 14
75 Training for Ogmore HVS 5a 2
76 Love Bump HS 4a 1
77 South Crack S 7
78 Broken Wall D  
79 Left Edge S 13
80 Bubbly Wall VS 4b * 13
81 West Corner D 13
82 Barnacle VS 4c 7
83 Preuss Crack HS 4b * 11
84 Curving Corner VS 4c 6
85 Direct II HVS 4c 5
86 Right Curving Corner S 4c 3
87 Brown Slab VD 4
88 Holey Wall VD 4
89 Left Corner VD 6
90 Direct I HS 4b 7
91 Right Corner D 6
92 Block Wall VD 4
93 Central Crack I D * 12
94 Right Crack I VD 6
95 Right Side D 5
96 Left Pillar HS 2
97 Central Crack II S 4
98 Right Pillar HVS 5a 2
99 Left Crack I VD 6
100 Right Crack II D  
101 Cracked Up VD  
102 Cracked It D  
103 Central Route S  
104 Left Crack II D  
  West from the Col
106 Scrambled Slab VS 4b 6
107 Gower Cut E6 6b 2
108 Southern Freeze E1 5b 7
109 Mistral E4 6a ** 2
110 North Corner HVS 5a 3
111 Direct E1 5a 3
112 South Edge HS 4a 32
113 Great Folly HVS 4c 1
  East Ridge Area
115 Ginger Groover VD 9
116 East Ridge VD 3c ** 537
117 East Ridge Variations HS 4b *** 245
  The Col
119 Shag VD 53
120 Kestrel S 24
121 Cormorant VD 43
122 Magpie S * 30
123 Chough VD 13
124 Wandl HS 4c 12
125 Cratered Wall ArĂȘte VS 5a 1
  Shallow and Deep Cut Area
127 Stefan Hermann and the Mothers of Invention HS 4a 2
128 Careless McGee HVD 2
129 Another Brixius in the Wall M 2
130 Left Edge VD 6
131 The Camille Wester Fan Club VS 4c  
132 Chasm HVD 4
133 Left Crack S * 3
134 Right Edge M 5
135 Arcelor Bandit VD 3
136 LEG and Jakob's Triple Trigger ABS Restructuring D 3
Climb name Grade
  Odin's Cave
138 Obscenities E4 6b  
139 Another Fine Mess S  
  Odin's Wall
141 Left Corner and Crack HVS 5a 45
142 Cave Crack Direct VS 4b * 27
143 Cave Crack HS 4b 37
144 Direct VS 5a 39
145 Gale Force E1 5a 2
146 Overlooked VS 4c 6
147 Fiechtl S 52
148 Wide Crack D 31
149 Happy Feet S 4a 6
150 Pillar Crack D 6
151 Girdle Traverse VS 4c 3
  Odin's Wall East Facet
  Second Pillar
154 Left Corner D 6
155 South Wall D 4
156 East Edge D 4
157 Wall and Corner VD 8
158 Left Crack D 3
  First Pillar
160 South Face D 3
161 Left Edge S 2
162 Left Pillar Direct VD 7
163 East Corner Crack D 3
  Second Corner
165 Left Corner D 7
166 Buttress M 5
167 Sharp Edge VD 3
168 The Nose HS 4a 3
169 Quartz Slab VD 5
170 Right Block Buttress S 1
  The South Wall
172 Dr. Focke's Pension Fund HVS 5b 3
173 South Chimney and Slab VD * 4
174 Left ArĂȘte S 4c 2
175 RIP Norman D  
176 Taste of Spring Chicken S  
177 Scary Cow Don't Jump E1 5c 1
  Monty's Slab
179 Master Bates Smear HVS 5b  
180 Monty's Slab HS 5a  
  First Corner
182 Shoulda Brought a Beer Towel HVS 5b * 6
183 Steve Get Naked S 4a * 5
184 The Road to Azerbaijan E1 5b * 4
185 Onion Cocaine E2 5b * 3
186 Onion Crack (Weeping Crack) VS 5a * 16
187 Left Corner Block Wall D  
188 Block Wall S 4a 3
189 Central Pillar HS 4b  
190 Cave and Balcony Blow-Hole VD 1
191 Right Corner M 4
192 Seaweed Slalom HVS 5a 3
193 Hole Slab D 5
194 Proud Slab D 4
  High Slab
196 Gardeners Question Time E2 5c * 2
  Bendrick Rock
198 Lucy Slab VD 1
199 Look-out Lucy D  
200 Mighty Mouth HVS 3
201 Looking for the Lee D 1
  Ramp Zawn
203 Cracked Slab VD 1
204 Holey Moly * VS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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