Climbs 62
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces N

How characters are built: conditions during the 20 mile round trip to Garbh Choire © hwackerhage

Crag features

Garbh Choire, one of the remote corries of Beinn A'Bhuird, offers some exceptional rock, ice and mixed routes. It is a long trek from the road but the solitude, the backdrop and the quality of the climbing make the time invested in the approach well worth it. Indeed, with the use of a mountain bike to speed you along the initial estate tracks, the approach is not too bad really. Doing it on consecutive days may begin to wear though.

Must do routes include the well known Squareface (VD), Mitre Ridge (HS / V 6) and Cumming-Crofton Route (S / VI 6). But there are many quality less well known routes too: Gold Coast Direct (V 5), The Empty Quarter (E3 5c), Slochd Wall (HVS 5a) and the more recent and superb Freebird (E4 6a) are all worthy of much more attention than they receive.

Approach notes

Restrictions during Shooting (12 August onwards) and Stalking seasons (Sept - Jan). Contact Invercauld estate.

Best methods of access utilise a mountain bike for the initial part of the approach. Either take the good tracks via Invercauld if approaching from Braemar, or via Glen Avon if approaching via Tomintoul. It's often possible to make a day visit using this method, depending on conditions, but will still feel like a long, strenuous day. Time permitting, a less physically demanding approach is to overnight at Slugain Howff (Invercauld) or Pony Men's Hut or Faindouran Bothy (Glen Avon). (ca. 1.5hrs bike to Slugain; 1.75hrs to Pony Men's Hut; 2 hrs to Faindouran.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Crucible 
2Elixir
-
III  
3Alchemist's Route
-
III * 
4Alchemist's Route Chimney Direct
-
IV 5  
5Pot Luck
-
IV 5 * 
6Gold Coast Direct
-
V 5 *** 
7Crucible Route
-
VI 5 ** 
8Rocky Horror Mountain Show
-
HS  
9Fool's Gold
-
VI 5 * 
 Squareface Buttress 
11Squareface
-
VD ***395
12Angel's EdgewayVS 4b **3
13Rhombus
-
S 4a * 
14Back Bay Gully
-
II  
15Laminated Crag
-
IV 4  
 The Flume 
17Approach Gully
-
II  
18Consolation Gully
-
II * 
19Nomad's Gully
-
II  
20Comala's Ridge
-
II *4
21Flume Left-Hand
-
IV 4 * 
22The Flume
-
II ** 
23Flume DirectIV 4 **2
24Salamander
-
III  
 Mandarin Buttress 
26Surgeon's Slab
-
VS  
27Bewitched
-
V 4 * 
28Witch Doctor
-
VS * 
29Mandarin Buttress
-
III * 
 Mitre Ridge 
31South-East Gully
-
V 4 * 
32Black Danube
-
V 5  
33East Wall Direct
-
IV 5 ** 
34The GrailV 5 **1
35The Bishop
-
HVS * 
36The Actress
-
VI 7 *1
37Mitre Ridge Direct
-
HVS * 
38The Cardinal
-
VIII 8 *** 
39Mitre Ridge
-
HS *115
40Mitre Ridge (winter)
-
V 6 ***58
 West Wall 
42Fundamentalist
-
E2 5c **4
43The Sacrament
-
E2 * 
44Cumming-Crofton Route
-
S ***155
45Cumming-Crofton Route (winter)
-
VI 6 ***38
46Cumming-Crofton Mitre Link
-
VS 4c * 
47West Side Story
-
VII 8 ** 
48The ChancelE1 5b **3
49The Spear of Destiny
-
E5 6a **3
50The Empty Quarter
-
E3 5c **3
51Bounty Hunter
-
E2 * 
52Commando Route
-
IV 5 * 
53Ghurka
-
VS  
54Ghurka (winter)
-
VI 7 ** 
55Chindit
-
VS * 
56Chindit Direct
-
E1 5b **1
57Slochd Wall
-
HVS 5a ***40
58Slochd Wall
-
IX 9 *** 
59Slochd Wall Right-Hand Finish
-
HVS 5a ** 
60FreebirdE4 6a ***4
61The Primate
-
E1 * 
62The PrimateVIII 8 ***1
63Blue Deacon
-
IV 4  
64Helter Skelter
-
VS * 
65North-West Gully
-
III ** 
 North-West Buttress 
67North-West Couloir
-
III 1
68North-West Groove
-
III  
69North-West Slab
-
III  

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