Climbs 62
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces N

How characters are built: conditions during the 20 mile round trip to Garbh Choire © hwackerhage

Crag features

Garbh Choire, one of the remote corries of Beinn A'Bhuird, offers some exceptional rock, ice and mixed routes. It is a long trek from the road but the solitude, the backdrop and the quality of the climbing make the time invested in the approach well worth it. Indeed, with the use of a mountain bike to speed you along the initial estate tracks, the approach is not too bad really. Doing it on consecutive days may begin to wear though.

Must do routes include the well known Squareface (VD), Mitre Ridge (HS / V 6) and Cumming-Crofton Route (S / VI 6). But there are many quality less well known routes too: Gold Coast Direct (V 5), The Empty Quarter (E3 5c), Slochd Wall (HVS 5a) and the more recent and superb Freebird (E4 6a) are all worthy of much more attention than they receive.

Approach notes

Restrictions during Shooting (12 August onwards) and Stalking seasons (Sept - Jan). Contact Invercauld estate.

Best methods of access utilise a mountain bike for the initial part of the approach. Either take the good tracks via Invercauld if approaching from Braemar, or via Glen Avon if approaching via Tomintoul. It's often possible to make a day visit using this method, depending on conditions, but will still feel like a long, strenuous day. Time permitting, a less physically demanding approach is to overnight at Slugain Howff (Invercauld) or Pony Men's Hut or Faindouran Bothy (Glen Avon). (ca. 1.5hrs bike to Slugain; 1.75hrs to Pony Men's Hut; 2 hrs to Faindouran.

Guidebooks

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Crucible
2 Elixir
-
III  
3 Alchemist's Route
-
III *  
4 Alchemist's Route Chimney Direct
-
IV 5  
5 Pot Luck
-
IV 5 *  
6 Gold Coast Direct
-
V 5 ***  
7 Crucible Route
-
VI 5 **  
8 Rocky Horror Mountain Show
-
HS  
9 Fool's Gold
-
VI 5 *  
  Squareface Buttress
11 Squareface
-
VD *** 439
12 Angel's Edgeway VS 4b ** 3
13 Rhombus
-
S 4a *  
14 Back Bay Gully
-
II  
15 Laminated Crag
-
IV 4  
  The Flume
17 Approach Gully
-
II  
18 Consolation Gully
-
II *  
19 Nomad's Gully
-
II  
20 Comala's Ridge
-
II * 4
21 Flume Left-Hand
-
IV 4 *  
22 The Flume
-
II **  
23 Flume Direct IV 4 ** 2
24 Salamander
-
III  
  Mandarin Buttress
26 Surgeon's Slab
-
VS  
27 Bewitched
-
V 4 *  
28 Witch Doctor
-
VS *  
29 Mandarin Buttress
-
III *  
  Mitre Ridge
31 South-East Gully
-
V 4 *  
32 Black Danube
-
V 5  
33 East Wall Direct
-
IV 5 **  
34 The Grail V 5 ** 1
35 The Bishop
-
HVS *  
36 The Actress
-
VI 7 * 1
37 Mitre Ridge Direct
-
HVS *  
38 The Cardinal
-
VIII 8 ***  
39 Mitre Ridge
-
HS * 117
40 Mitre Ridge (winter)
-
V 6 *** 17
  West Wall
42 Fundamentalist
-
E2 5c ** 4
43 The Sacrament
-
E2 *  
44 Cumming-Crofton Route
-
S *** 177
45 Cumming-Crofton Route (winter)
-
VI 6 *** 11
46 Cumming-Crofton Mitre Link
-
VS 4c *  
47 West Side Story
-
VII 8 **  
48 The Chancel E1 5b ** 3
49 The Spear of Destiny
-
E5 6a ** 3
50 The Empty Quarter
-
E3 5c ** 3
51 Bounty Hunter
-
E2 *  
52 Commando Route
-
IV 5 *  
53 Ghurka
-
VS  
54 Ghurka (winter)
-
VI 7 **  
55 Chindit
-
VS *  
56 Chindit Direct
-
E1 5b ** 1
57 Slochd Wall
-
HVS 5a *** 15
58 Slochd Wall
-
IX 9 ***  
59 Slochd Wall Right-Hand Finish
-
HVS 5a **  
60 Freebird E4 6a *** 4
61 The Primate
-
E1 *  
62 The Primate VIII 8 *** 1
63 Blue Deacon
-
IV 4  
64 Helter Skelter
-
VS *  
65 North-West Gully
-
III **  
  North-West Buttress
67 North-West Couloir
-
III 1
68 North-West Groove
-
III  
69 North-West Slab
-
III  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer gforce