UKC

Climbs 92
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 80m a.s.l
Faces W

Morgan getting baked on The Pillar. © The Big Sender

Crag features

These amazing crags of immaculate gneiss offer some of the best low-level cragging in the NW Highlands.

In spite of the endless 'dire' puns in route names, locals pronounce the place "DEE-a-beg".

There's now a fantastic restaurant in the village, well positioned for a post climb meal and beer - but it's advisable to book if you want a table.
planetmarshall - 12/Sep/15
Watch out for ticks of the unwelcome type. The path is crawling with them.
Mike-W-99 - 06/Jun/12
60m ropes will get you down in one go from the top of Black Streak on the Main Cliff
mtempest - 04/Jun/11
It's hard to imagine a more perfect crag. Absolutely stunning!
Tom Last - 07/Aug/10
Just awesome. The Pillar, Northumberland Wall, Black Streak and Route 2 made for possibly the best day's cragging I've ever done.
Andy Moles - 10/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Little Pillar
2 Proud Arete HS 4a ** 2
3 Feel Euphoria
-
E1 5b * 1
4 Periwinkle
-
VS 4c * 1
  Red Slab
6 Gneiss Jugs
-
VS 4c  
7 The Red Slab
-
VS 4c *  
  Approach Walls
9 The Mynch HVS 5b  
  The Pillar
11 Diabaig Corner E1 5b * 4
12 Diabaig ,The Hard Way E5 6b ** 1
13 Dire Wall E2 5b *** 29
14 The Pillar E2 5b *** 339
15 Dire Straights E2 5b *** 29
16 Dire Straits (Diabolic Finish) E3 6a **  
17 Upper Corner HVS 5a *  
18 The Frieze HVS 5b * 1
  The Little Big Wall
20 An Eyeful
-
E3 5c 1
21 An Armful E4 5c *  
22 The Gritty Finish
-
E4 6a 1
23 Once Upon a Time in the Wild West E5 6a * 1
24 Calcite Corner E1 5b * 1
25 Final Demand
-
E3 5c *  
26 Local Hero
-
E6 6a **  
27 Rubblesplitskin
-
E3 5c ** 20
28 Edgewood Whymper
-
E4 5c ** 6
29 Feelin' Groovy
-
E3 5c * 1
  The Red Wall
31 An Offensive Man
-
E1 5a 1
32 In Crisis E3 5b *  
33 Animal Magic E2 5b ** 7
34 Nature's Way E5 6a **  
35 Porpoise Pun
-
E3 5c ** 6
Climb name Grade
36 Batwing
-
E3 5c 1
37 Dental Trauma
-
HVS 5a 1
  Middle Buttresses
39 Atomic Bimble VS 5a 2
40 Pointless Eliminates
-
E2 5c  
41 Dire Leg
-
VS 4c  
  The Main Cliff
43 Dead Mouse Crack
-
VS 5a * 4
44 Dead Mouse Crack (Dire Finish)
-
E1 5c *  
45 Emerald
-
HVS 5a * 1
46 Dire Arete
-
E1 5b  
47 Apprentice Bhoys
-
S 4a * 2
48 The Grunter
-
VS 4c * 8
49 Gamhnachain's Crack
-
HVS 5b 2
50 Perfect Days E2 5c **  
51 Route Three
-
E1 5b ** 73
52 Brimstone
-
E2 5c *** 35
53 Northern Sky HVS 5a **  
54 Route Two
-
HVS 5a *** 423
55 Northumberland Wall
-
E2 5c *** 151
56 The Afterglow
-
E4 6a **  
57 Wall of Flame E4 6a *** 24
58 The Black Streak
-
E1 5c *** 254
59 Going Home
-
E1 5c 3
60 Route One
-
HVS 5b ** 101
61 Foil
-
VS 5a * 60
62 The Dominie
-
E1 5b * 5
63 Big Glossy Book Route
-
S 4a * 1
64 Bogie E2 5b * 7
65 Evasion
-
VS 4c * 42
66 Three Old Men VS 4b  
67 The Grunter - Right Finish VS 4c **  
68 Brimstone Direct E2 5c ***  
  The Condome
70 Condome E3 5c * 2
Climb name Grade
71 Instant Muscle E4 6a ** 7
72 Fisherman's Dream E6 6b **  
73 The Con-Con
-
E1 5b ** 63
74 Rough Justice (The Con-Con Direct)
-
E2 5c ** 12
75 Uncaught Silver VS 4c  
76 Stars So Close HVS 5a *  
77 Shunned
-
HVS 5a 1
  Charlie's Dome
79 Dire Wolf
-
E1 5c *  
80 Terrier Trauma
-
E3 6a  
81 Collie's Corner
-
HVS 5a *  
82 Charlie's Tower
-
VS 4c * 34
83 Broon's Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 3
84 Ma Broon's Variations VS 4c *  
85 The Witch Is Dead E3 6a *  
86 Apprentice Route
-
S 4a * 1
87 Boab's Corner VS 5a ** 93
88 Oor Wullie
-
E1 5c * 2
89 Hull Wall
-
E1 5b **  
90 Yew-tree Wall VS 4c  
91 Bromide
-
HVS 5b *  
92 Plunge
-
HVS 5b  
93 Deputy Dawg
-
S 3
94 Musky
-
VD  
95 Like Pine Bark
-
VD  
96 Soapy Souter E1 5b **  
  Upper Slabs
98 Continuation Route
-
VS 4b  
99 The Gooseberry S  
100 The Mancunian Question
-
HS 4b  
101 Top Cat VS 4b  
102 West Rib 3 ** 7
103 Charlie's Tower - correct location HS 4b **  

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