Climbs 106
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 80m a.s.l
Faces W

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Morgan getting baked on The Pillar. © The Big Sender

Crag features

A domed hillside of immaculate gneiss crags, which offer some of the best low-level cragging in the Northwest Highlands.

In spite of the endless 'dire' puns in route names, locals pronounce the place "DEE-a-beg".

55m abseil from new pegs/rope slings/maillon at top of pitch 2 of Foil; this is about 10m right of the previous abseil anchor from the perched block at the top of The Black Streak. There is currently also an abseil anchor on the large grass ledge at the top of first pitch - 25m abseil from here.
Gary Latter - 29/Jun/19
As previous comments; restaurant in Diabaig is fantastic and 60m ropes get you down from the tat at the top. Bolts at 1/3 height ledge in place as of April 2019...not entirely sure why.
spidermonkey09 - 24/Apr/19
There's now a fantastic restaurant in the village, well positioned for a post climb meal and beer - but it's advisable to book if you want a table.
planetmarshall - 12/Sep/15
Watch out for ticks of the unwelcome type. The path is crawling with them.
Mike-W-99 - 06/Jun/12
60m ropes will get you down in one go from the top of Black Streak on the Main Cliff
mtempest - 04/Jun/11
It's hard to imagine a more perfect crag. Absolutely stunning!
Tom Last - 07/Aug/10
Just awesome. The Pillar, Northumberland Wall, Black Streak and Route 2 made for possibly the best day's cragging I've ever done.
Andy Moles - 10/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Little Pillar
2 Proud Arete HS 4a ** 2
3 Feel Euphoria
-
E1 5b * 1
4 Periwinkle
-
VS 4c * 1
  Red Slab
6 Gneiss Jugs
-
VS 4c  
7 The Red Slab
-
VS 4c *  
  Approach Walls
9 The Mynch HVS 5b  
  The Pillar
11 Diabaig Corner E1 5b * 4
12 Diabaig ,The Hard Way E5 6b ** 1
13 Dire Wall E2 5b *** 34
14 The Pillar E2 5b *** 383
15 Dire Straights E2 5b *** 33
16 Dire Straits (Diabolic Finish) E3 6a **  
17 Upper Corner HVS 5a *  
18 The Frieze HVS 5b * 1
  The Little Big Wall
20 An Eyeful
-
E3 5c 1
21 An Armful E4 5c *  
22 The Gritty Finish
-
E4 6a 1
23 Once Upon a Time in the Wild West E5 6a * 1
24 Calcite Corner E1 5b * 1
25 Final Demand
-
E3 5c *  
26 Local Hero
-
E6 6a **  
27 Rubblesplitskin
-
E3 5c ** 24
28 Edgewood Whymper
-
E4 5c ** 9
29 Feelin' Groovy
-
E3 5c * 1
  The Red Wall
31 An Offensive Man
-
E1 5a 1
32 In Crisis E3 5b *  
33 Animal Magic E2 5b ** 7
34 Nature's Way E5 6a **  
35 Porpoise Pun
-
E3 5c ** 6
36 Batwing
-
E3 5c 1
37 Dental Trauma
-
HVS 5a 1
  Middle Buttresses
39 Atomic Bimble VS 5a 2
Climb name Grade
40 Pointless Eliminates
-
E2 5c  
41 Dire Leg
-
VS 4c  
  The Main Cliff
43 Dead Mouse Crack
-
VS 5a * 5
44 Dead Mouse Crack (Dire Finish)
-
E1 5c *  
45 Emerald
-
HVS 5a * 1
46 Dire Arete
-
E1 5b  
47 Apprentice Bhoys
-
S 4a * 2
48 The Grunter
-
VS 4c * 11
49 The Grunter - Right Finish VS 4c **  
50 Gamhnachain's Crack
-
HVS 5b 2
51 Perfect Days E2 5c **  
52 Route Three
-
E1 5b ** 89
53 Brimstone
-
E2 5c *** 41
54 Brimstone Direct E2 5c ***  
55 Northern Sky HVS 5a **  
56 Route Two
-
HVS 5a *** 481
57 Northumberland Wall
-
E2 5c *** 170
58 The Afterglow
-
E4 6a ** 3
59 Wall of Flame E4 6a *** 26
60 The Black Streak
-
E1 5c *** 286
61 Verve E2 5c *  
62 Going Home
-
E1 5c 3
63 Route One
-
HVS 5b ** 119
64 Foil
-
VS 5a * 70
65 Spirit HVS 5a *  
66 The Dominie
-
E1 5b * 7
67 Big Glossy Book Route
-
S 4a * 1
68 Bogie E2 5b * 7
69 Evasion
-
VS 4c * 52
70 Three Old Men VS 4b  
  The Condome
72 Congruent D *  
73 Consensus D *  
74 Condescending D **  
75 Confluent HS 4b *  
76 Contiguous VS 5a *  
77 Conflagration E3 5c **  
78 Condome/Instant Muscle
-
E4 6a *** 9
Climb name Grade
79 Fisherman's Dream E6 6b **  
80 The Con-Con
-
E1 5b ** 73
81 Rough Justice (The Con-Con Direct)
-
E2 5c ** 13
82 Uncaught Silver VS 4c  
83 Stars So Close HVS 5a *  
84 Shunned
-
HVS 5a 1
  The South Wall (Charlie's Dome)
86 Dire Wolf
-
E1 5c *  
87 Terrier Trauma
-
E3 6a  
88 Collie's Corner
-
HVS 5a * 1
89 Jeemy VS 4c *  
90 Wee Eck VD *  
91 Ma Broon's Variations VS 4c *  
92 The Witch Is Dead E3 6a *  
93 Broon's Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 3
94 Charlie's Tower
-
VS 4c * 41
95 Charlie's Tower - correct location HS 4b **  
96 Soapy Soutar E1 5b **  
97 Jings E1 5b *  
98 Crivens VS 4c *  
99 Boab's Corner VS 5a ** 105
100 Oor Wullie
-
E1 5c * 2
101 Help ma Boab E2 6a *  
102 Hull Wall
-
E1 5b **  
103 Yew-tree Wall VS 4c  
104 Apprentice Route
-
S 4a * 1
105 Bromide
-
HVS 5b *  
106 Plunge
-
HVS 5b  
107 Deputy Dawg
-
S 3
108 Musky
-
VD  
109 Like Pine Bark
-
VD  
  Upper Slabs
111 Continuation Route
-
VS 4b  
112 The Gooseberry S  
113 The Mancunian Question
-
HS 4b  
114 Top Cat VS 4b  
115 West Rib 3 ** 12

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