Climbs 24
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Crag features

Also sports just one E5, but best for having a few routes at all grades from HVS to E3. Routes up to 130ft.

Some routes may have been damaged by rockfall: try to compare against guidebooks before setting off. Abseil inspection recommended on the promontory to the R.

Approach notes

Take the first road L (to the S) off the main road on the Pembroke (W) side of Lydstep village, then L again (sign: MOD artillery range) and follow the road past the bright-coloured Youth Hostel to the car parks - upper and lower, directly above Forbidden Head.

Follow the path W beside the wire fence to the top of the promontory (beware loose rock). Abseil off good anchors.

Alternatively, approach from Skrinkle Haven car park and (low tide only) descend to the beach: the first route is halfway along the cliffs on the W side of the bay.


Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Imposterbee 7c+ *** 1
2 Skrinkle Cut E2 5b * 5
3 Another Wounded Knee E2 5c * 3
4 Right-Hand Drive E1 5b 1
5 Asleep at the Wheel E1 5a  
6 Back Seat Driver HVS 5a 1
7 Automatic Transmission E2 5b 1
8 Wet Bulgarian Surprise E2 5c 1
9 Love action E4 6a * 2
Climb name Grade
10 Strange love E6 6a ** 3
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Forbidden Head
  Bridge Buttress
14 Iron Pirate
6c+ S2 ***  
15 Fooled by a Smile
7a S3 **  
16 Blue Mood
6c S2 *  
17 Kelpie Poodle
6a S2  
18 Bridie Girl
5c S2  
Climb name Grade
19 Angry Child
6a S1 **  
20 The Cutting Edge
6a+ S1 ** 1
21 Musketeer
6b+ S1 **  
22 Hungry Heart
E5 6b *** 5
23 Run Bar Bar E3 5c 1
24 The Cruise E2 5b 1
25 Gorak
E5 6b ***  
26 Occam's Razor
7c+ ***  
27 Pollinator
8a ***  

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