Also sports just one E5, but best for having a few routes at all grades from HVS to E3. Routes up to 130ft.
Some routes may have been damaged by rockfall: try to compare against guidebooks before setting off. Abseil inspection recommended on the promontory to the R.
Take the first road L (to the S) off the main road on the Pembroke (W) side of Lydstep village, then L again (sign: MOD artillery range) and follow the road past the bright-coloured Youth Hostel to the car parks - upper and lower, directly above Forbidden Head.
Follow the path W beside the wire fence to the top of the promontory (beware loose rock). Abseil off good anchors.
Alternatively, approach from Skrinkle Haven car park and (low tide only) descend to the beach: the first route is halfway along the cliffs on the W side of the bay.
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|2||Skrinkle Cut||E2 5b *||5|
|3||Another Wounded Knee||E2 5c *||3|
|4||Right-Hand Drive||E1 5b||1|
|5||Asleep at the Wheel||E1 5a|
|6||Back Seat Driver||HVS 5a||1|
|7||Automatic Transmission||E2 5b||1|
|8||Wet Bulgarian Surprise||E2 5c||1|
|9||Love action||E4 6a *||2|
|10||Strange love||E6 6a **||3|
|Routes Added from Rockfax Book|
|6c+ S2 ***|
|15||Fooled by a Smile||
|7a S3 **|
|6c S2 *|
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