Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SE

Will Frost on Whispering Wind at St. Govan's East © Alexander Thorp

Crag features

Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Hidden Secrets (E2), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

Approach notes

Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
Note: If you are going to do the Savage or Round the Horn in the near future, there is a very dodgy area of unstable rock at about 3/4 height. Take care and make sure your belayer has a helmet or is a fast runner!
Steve Quinton - 15/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South East Face
2 Happy
-
VS 4b  
3 Hammerhead
-
HVS 4c 3
4 Welly
-
HVS 5b  
5 Sheep's Crack
-
E2 6a  
6 Single Speed
-
VS 4c  
7 Size Zero
-
HVS 5b  
8 Scintillate
-
HVS 5a  
9 Coming Home
-
VS 4c  
  The 50-Foot Wall
11 Toast 6b  
12 Ozzies Can't Run 6a+  
13 Razorback
-
E1 5b  
14 Tidal Race
-
E2 5b  
15 Bilge Pump
-
E3 5c  
16 Kiwis Can't Fly
-
VS 4c 1
17 Kiwi's Top 3  
18 Kiwi's Bulge 6a  
19 Boob Tube
-
VS 4c  
20 The Olympic Blubber Machine E5 6a  
21 Yellow Trouser Factor E2 5c  
22 The Yellow Sea 6b  
23 Crab Catcher
-
VS 5a 5
24 Crab Traverse 6a+  
25 Seal Outing
-
E2 5c  
26 Heave Ho and Up She Rises E1 5c  
27 Growler
-
E4 6a  
28 Commit
-
E5 6b  
29 Split the Difference
-
E3 5c  
30 Samphire
-
E3 5c  
31 Ban the Whale
-
E1 5a  
32 Save the Seal
-
HVS 5a  
33 What a Comedown
-
HVS 4c 2
34 El Matador
-
E4 6a ** 1
35 La Flancal! 6b  
36 Ravages of Time E3 6a  
37 Modern Life E2 5c  
38 A Little Bit on the Side
-
S  
  Brave New World
40 Sad Old Eyes
-
HS 4b  
41 Sideshow VS 4c * 16
42 Sinewous
-
E1 5c  
43 Blood and Flesh E2 5c * 8
44 Flesh and Blood E2 5c * 29
45 Hidden Secrets E2 5c ** 42
46 Dead Line
-
E5 6b  
47 Brave New World E4 6a *** 90
48 Out There E6 6b *  
49 Ghostly Galleon E4 6a ** 16
50 Sea Fever E5 6a ** 5
51 The Savage E4 6b * 1
52 Round the Horn E2 5c ** 15
53 White Rhino E5 6a * 1
54 Hotspur E5 6a *  
55 Imagination E4 6a ** 8
56 Vision On E5 6b *  
57 Just an Illusion E3 5c * 3
58 In Your Dreams E3 6a 1
59 Psyche and Gurn
-
E6 6b  
  First Blood
61 Black Rambo E5 6a *  
62 Body Language E4 6a ** 48
63 First Blood E2 5c *** 483
64 Dreams of Seas E5 6a ** 1
65 Calisto E1 5b ** 340
66 Mother India E4 6b * 13
67 Ganges E4 6a * 6
68 Ganymede HS 4b * 280
69 Metis
-
E1 5b 3
70 The Vicar's Goat E2 5b 38
71 Dead Man's Grip
-
E4 6a  
72 Silent Running E4 6b 1
73 Quiet Please E5 6b * 3
74 Mud Pie in Your Eye HVS 4c 13
75 Adam's Rib E4 5c * 12
76 Bells of St. Clements E3 6a * 5
77 Forbidden Fruits E3 5c ** 183
78 Juicy Lucy E4 5c * 7
79 Serpent's Tail
-
E4 5c * 14
80 Roxana
-
E5 6a ** 1
81 Roman Candle HVS 5a 29
82 Comfortably Numb HVS 5a 35
83 Europa
-
HVS 5a * 108
84 Lotus Europa
-
E2 5c * 88
85 The Lotus Eaters E1 5a 9
86 Rear Wind HVS 5a * 337
87 Whispering Wind E1 5a * 219
88 The Go-Between
-
E2 5c * 30
89 Howling Gale E3 6a ** 121
90 Io VS 4b 72
91 Dynamo
-
HVS 5a 18
92 Paddy Power
-
E2 5c 1
93 Lunch Break
-
HS 4b 15
94 Power Nap
-
E2 5b 2
95 Waiting game
-
VS 4c 12
96 Neighbourhood Bully
-
E3 5c  
97 Little Treasure
-
E2 5b 1
  St. Govan's Far East
99 This Sticky Toffee's Cracked
-
HVS 5a  
100 Dirty Weekend
-
HVS 5a 8
101 Fast Track
-
E1 5b * 4
102 The Sybarite
-
E1 5b * 2
103 Stench Trench
-
E1 5a 1
104 Fishwife
-
E2 5c  
105 A Latticework of Clinkers
-
E1 5a  
106 Fly B' Night
-
E3 6a 1
107 Cornucopia
-
E2 5b  
108 Here Today
-
HVS 5a  
109 Gone Tomorrow
-
VS 4c  

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