Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SE

DWS at lydstep © grey wolf

Crag features

Interesting single- and multi-pitch routes up to 210ft on a cliff at the SE corner of Lydstep Head, which can be hard to see except from the sea. The majority of the routes are in fact at E1/2 or below, with two E5s.

Approach notes

Tidal: accessible at low- to half-tide. Abseil approach recommended for most routes.

From the Lydstep car park, follow the coastal path E to the far SE corner of the coast, where the coastal path should meet it from the N. (Walking via the N route takes you past the quarries and Lydstep Pinnacle but is no faster.)

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Lindas Pillar
-
E2 5c 1
2 I'm Spartacus
-
M * 1
3 I'm Spartacus 2
-
E6 6b * 1
4 Titus Oats
-
HVS 5a 4
5 Atlantic Chimney VS 4b 4
6 The Arc VD 9
7 Beat Surrender
-
E5 6a/b *** 12
8 Arcady
-
HVS 5a 1
9 The Rip E2 5b ** 6
10 Amazon E3 5c 15
11 Colonel Mustard E3 5c * 4
12 The Drop Zone
-
E1 5a 2
13 Summer Thunder E3 5c * 2
14 Lydstep Point Maze HVS 5a 9
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
16 Dynamite
-
6b S1 ** 3
17 Scotch on the Rocks
-
7a S1 **  
18 Captain Caveman
-
6c+ S1 *** 1
19 Isostacy
-
7b S2 **  
20 Vamos
-
6a S2 *  
21 Sea Leg
-
6a+ S2 *  
22 Nobody's Hero
-
6a+ S1 * 1
23 The Medic
-
5c S1 *  
24 Reef Walker
-
7a S3 *** 1
25 Patch's Shorts
-
4a *  
26 Restraint of Beasts
-
6b+ S1 **  
27 Cool Man Chu
-
6a+ S0 *  
28 Planktonitis
-
5c S0 * 1
29 Big Screen
-
4c S0 * 1
30 Way Down
-
3 S0 * 1
31 Reso's Nose
-
5a S2 *  
32 Cocko
-
5a S0  
33 Crill Wars
-
4c *  
34 Extras
-
6a+ S2  
35 Cold Turkey
-
6a+ S1 **  
36 Sex-pack on the Beach
-
5c S0 *  
37 Offshore Drift
-
6a+ S0 **  
38 Cellar Deck
-
6a+ S0 **  
39 Wreck of the Hesperus
-
6c S1 **  
40 Flotsam
-
6b+ S1  
41 Jetsam
-
6a S1 *  
42 Aperitif
-
6a S1  
43 Calm
-
5c S2 *  
44 Charm
-
5a S1 *  
45 Topology
-
7a S1 ***  
46 Strangeness
-
6c S0 **  
47 Fancy Claps
-
7a+ S1 **  
48 Perfect Pitch
-
6a+ S1 *** 1
49 Life
-
6a+ S2 **  
50 Lydstep Traverse VS s1 f5+ ***  
51 Mex the Flex E5 6b 2
52 Hairy Ball Theorem 7b+ ***  
53 Piece and Quiet 7b+ **  

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