Climbs 33
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

Natasha Smith on the classic Abracadabra E2 5b** © Emma Alsford

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 210ft. Lower pitches generally offer good steep climbs on solid rock; the upper pitches above the half-height ledge often have loose rock - maybe best avoided. Climbing well distributed among the grades. Some excellent harder routes (quite tidal) on the east face - try Dolomite Sprint (E3) and Abracadabra(E2).

Approach notes

Tidal:most routes only accessible at low- to half-tide. Abseil or scramble in, depending on which part of the zawn you're accessing.

From the Forbidden Head car park, head E for a few minutes. It lies just beyond Frontier Zawn, which cuts in to the coastal path.

Alternatively, from the Lydstep car park (open in summer), take the S car park exit and follow the path W. (The two are about equidistant.)

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ace in the hole
-
E1 5b * 6
2 The bridge
-
E1 5b 1
3 The Sword
-
VS 1
4 The Dirk
-
HS 3
5 Toledo
-
VS 4c * 6
6 Raindance E2 5c *  
7 Dolomite Sprint
-
E3 5c ** 2
8 Abracadabra E2 5b ** 6
9 Setback Grooves E1 5a/b 3
10 The Spear HVS 5a4b 1
11 Skomar Corner
-
E1 5b 1

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