UKC

Climbs 122
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 315m a.s.l
Faces all

Bridget Glaister nearing the steep finishing wall on Virgin ayer, puta hoy (6a+) at Entrada Gratis, Mijas © Mark Glaister

Crag features

The small collection of climbs on the cliffs that fringe the tourist mecca of Mijas are minor when compared to the grand crags around El Chorro village to the north, however their proximity to the coast and ease of access, along with a more reliable climate has ensured that the climbs remain popular.

Approach notes

From Malaga, follow the A7 towards Marbella and after around 25km, turn off for Mijas (there are two exits so if you miss the first then take the next one which is actually a slightly better road). Both roads wind uphill to a petrol station and roundabout on the edge of Mijas. Go left following a sign for the centre and where the road forks take the right fork. The narrow road becomes cobbled and even narrower but keep on going until the road starts to drop down out of the centre and a one-way sign takes you right. Follow the one-way signs until the crags are visible up and on your left. Drive up to the crag and park carefully either on the road or take the track to the right below the cliff to more parking spots near to the donkey stables.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Andalucia 2 Edition (2007)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Entrada Gratis
2 Los Hippy no van tripy 7c+ *  
3 Tri-roc, el autentico pirre Americano 7b **  
4 Entrada gratis 7a ** 10
5 El monodido asesino 7b * 3
6 Si dios existe, es su problema 7b * 2
7 Sube su puleva 6b+ ** 6
8 Jack el destrepador 6a+ * 6
9 Homosexuales en accion 6a ** 46
10 Virgin ayer, puta hoy 6a+ ** 21
11 Alex 6a+ * 13
12 Que te den por culo, cara culo 6c * 2
13 Lombrices anales 6b+ ** 14
14 On parle francais mijeno 5c ** 35
15 Derrape por llevar tenis 6a * 9
16 A me da Teval 6a  
17 Entrada gratis 1? ? ***  
  Sector Pire sin Manos
19 Esto no lo Sube ni James Bond 7a+ 3
20 Azotame con la Goma de Butano 6b 1
21 Ni Pensarlo 5c 2
22 Esto Par Alcade 3c 3
23 Mierda de perro 7a * 1
24 Pues comprate un gusano 6c+ ** 2
25 Qurero follar! 7a+ * 1
26 Pire sin manos 6b+ ** 9
27 San Miguel 6c+ * 1
28 Wanda 6a+ * 12
29 Panchito 6a * 8
30 Gusanitos 6a+ *  
31 El diedro del arbol 5b 4
32 Kaga hondo 6c *  
33 La pullicia me perseguia 6c ** 2
34 Metercanas al poder 6c+ * 3
35 Caligula 6a ** 29
36 Roadside 1 3a *  
37 Roadside 2 3c  
38 Roadside 3 5a *  
39 Roadside 4 6a *  
40 Roadside 5 6a  
41 Roadside 6 6a  
42 Bill 6a+  
Climb name Grade
43 Trevor 5b  
44 Y yo con estos pelos 6a+  
45 Encadenacion molecular 6b  
46 Sobredosis 7b+ 1
47 Burros y freekiss 6c+  
48 Equis aguda 5c  
49 Dolores 6a  
50 Ernesto, picame esto 5c  
51 Pelegrino Sin Destino
-
6a 6
52 Se te ve un Huevo
-
5c 5
53 Como el Aborto de un Sapo
-
5c * 5
54 Y Ahora Como lo Hago
-
5c 2
  The Ravine
56 Franciscojose 6a+ 15
57 Candela 5c 17
58 Nazurath 6a * 32
59 Maria de la conception 5b 18
60 Mas metacana y menos mariconeo 6a+ * 4
61 La Puerca 6c * 2
62 Historias de los Stones 6b+ ** 13
63 António's Route 6b+ ** 2
64 Ay! Que desvirgue 6b+ ** 9
65 Condon roto 6c ** 6
66 Ohu! Que chungo 6b+ ** 6
67 Polvo en el coco 6b ** 18
68 Nephilim 7a 2
69 Desvirgada 5c 4
70 Pinzus Barrus 6c * 1
71 Tuberculo Erectus 7a+ 1
72 Karate Maru 6c+ 1
73 Le Addicion de Jane 7b+ 3
74 Little Boy 7b * 2
75 Pa que Veas 7a * 3
76 Puenting Roca 6c+ * 4
77 Metacana Forever! 7a+ ** 7
78 Espeluznuco
-
7b+  
79 Rastafarian 5c * 2
80 Bob Marley 6a * 2
81 Jamaika Ska Club 6b+ * 2
82 Vuelos Iberia 6b * 3
83 Caca en el culo 6a * 7
84 Torpedo nigeriano 6b * 7
Climb name Grade
85 Funeraria nacional 5c * 9
86 La rebelion de Rasputin 6b ** 11
87 Via de Jesus 5c ** 25
88 Fuerza, voluntad y huevos 6a+ * 10
89 Enrique 5c * 28
90 Maniobras halogenas 6a 10
91 Pablo 5b 8
92 Sueno de Andre 6a * 15
93 Destree
-
5a 4
94 Beat skala bein 6a 9
95 Ana Belan 5c * 10
96 No fotis 5c 7
97 La luz del senor 5b 15
98 Maria del Carmen 5c 7
99 Epidemia * 6c * 3
100 Polvo en el coco right hand finish *
-
6b 1
101 Bidedos * 7b 1
102 Above First Step ? ***  
103 Guzman 6c+  
104 Short Tufa ? ***  
105 Flake Left of Arete ? ***  
106 Flowstone Arete ? ***  
107 Deleiter 7a *  
108 Ensambre 7a+  
109 Lukita 7b  
110 Taladro casero 7a+  
111 Murcelead 7b+  
112 Rib Left of Boulder Gully ? ***  
113 Trillion 6a+  
  Sector Busca-Busca
115 El Culo del Mundo
-
8a+  
116 El Ama te Ama
-
7c  
117 Sin Calentar te vas a Cagar
-
7c+  
118 Agarrate a la Endemica
-
7c+  
119 Los Comeresinas
-
7b  
120 La Mirona
-
7c  
121 Fracaso Escolar
-
7b+  
122 Mashaka Zulu
-
8a  
123 Mashaka al Peo
-
8a+  
124 El Peo que Mato al Abuelo
-
7c+  
125 Critical +
-
7c+  
126 Pompo * 6b+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83