Climbs 106
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 420m a.s.l
Faces N

Evening bouldering at Simonside. © Mark D

Crag features

A fabulous crag with top quality single pitch routes in every grade up to E6. The best place in the county for beginners.

Approach notes

From the Forestry Commission Lordenshaw car park, follow the forestry road onto the plateau. The road passes under the crag.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
Agree more traffic needed, but a new venue and a good venue,def be back on a warmer day, nice walk in aswell
Geds - 20/Oct/11
Frazoir is spot on with his comment. Definitely a good place to get the uni groups ;)
Fiend - 01/Oct/11
Fine crag although some of the less popular routes could do with more traffic to keep them clean (plenty of other crags in Northumberland could do with a bit of a rest)
frazoir - 02/Aug/10
Some great climbs, however, be aware of the green mossy, slimey, powdery stuff, they will cause gear (especially cams) failure. Also at some climbs the rock is not as strong and it can break. Some of the grading at the crag is very inconsistent, so don't assume the general logic of british grading at this crag.
duzinga - 02/Jun/08
Very green in late may. Some of the classics had enough traffic that it wasn't a problem but 80% of the grag had 3mm of green flaky stuff all over it.
CurlyStevo - 30/May/05
Prone to 'going off' early in the season when prolonged damp weather results in greasy conditions, but great when dry. Tends to dry quickly in summer esp when windy (eposed) so don't be put off by a splash or two of rain. Grab 'Delicatessen' - delightful VS (MVS?) with a bit of slab (not well protected), a bit of crack work, finishing on an exposed face. Chuffing brill.
John MacDonald - 24/Mar/05
Insufficient traffic!? Very green and slippery, even on the 3 star routes, despite only being October. Potentially fantastic, but dissapointing
Matt Leggett - 28/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Window Buttress face 
2The Prow
S 6
3Window Buttress Face TwoVD 2
4The FlakeD 5
5Slab and ChimneyM 14
6Fenestration Front
HS 4
7Window Buttress
M 24
8Peeping Tom
VS 4c 2
 Boulder Face 
10Zig Zag RouteD 87
11Swastika ChimneyD *86
12Swastika FaceHVD 37
13Swastika CrackS 4a *85
14Kyley's RouteHVS 5a *11
15Gaucherie GrooveVS 4c 3
16Boulder Face ChimneyM 32
17Flying NunE1 5a *15
18RothVS 5a 4
19Overhanging ChimneyVD 15
20Flare ChimneyD 6
 Long Layback 
22Boulder Face CornerM 14
23Nameless WallVS 4c 39
24Boulder Face CrackD 83
25Innominate CrackVD **315
26Flake CornerVS 4c *243
27Flake Corner Direct FinishHVS 5a *73
28Flake ChimneyVD 66
29Vibram WallHVS 5a **158
30On EdgeE2 5b *8
31On the Brink
E3 5c 1
32Long Layback CrackVS 4c ***51
33A.K.A Mr. Vegas.E7 6c *** 
34Command PerformanceE4 6b ***12
35Nine Inch NailsE4 5c  
36Over the EdgeE3 5c ***28
37Dirty CornerVD 6
38On the BorderE3 5c  
39Dry RunE2 5b  
40Staircase ChimneyD 15
41Two Way Chimney
VD 4
42Coquet Corner
VS 4c 1
43Chinese Crack
MVS 4b 1
44Little 'A' Climb
MS 6
 'A' Buttress 
46The PrivyHVS 5a  
47Giant's StairVS 4c **19
48Great ChimneyD ***194
49'A' Buttress Left-handVD 26
50'A' Buttress DirectVD **125
51'A' Buttress, Right HandS 4a 68
52Eden Groove
M 6
53The God MachineE3 5c * 
54The Wind TunnelHVS 5a 1
55Aeolian WallVS 5a *30
56DelicatessenVS 4c ***167
57Delicatessen Direct Start
HS 4b 27
58Golden Days
E1 5b *3
59Gimme Wings
E4 6a * 
 Buttress Face 
61Chockstone CrackD 23
62The Whalers Thoughts
HVS 5a  
63Stepped Buttress
M 6
64Archer's ChimneyD 8
65SagittariusVS 4c *36
66The QuiverVS 5a *30
67Wide Eyed and WitlessVS 4c 19
68Quartz ButtressHVS 5a **76
69Regular NightmareE4 6a * 
70Blood on the RooftopsE5 6b *1
71GilletteE3 5b **8
72Cut ThroatE4 6a ** 
73The StoicE2 5c **46
74Loophole CrackS 4a *52
75Les PerchassHVS 5b *45
76Nee PerchassVS 5a *38
77Broken ToeHVS 5a 2
78Cairn CrackVD 18
79Cairn SlabS 4a *31
80Cairn ScoopVD 25
81Cairn Crack WestVD 39
82Sunset WallS 4a 8
 'B' Buttress 
84'B' Buttress DirectHS 4b *38
85'B' Buttress ChimneyS 4b *4
86Bee BumbleE5 5c *2
87Cairn WallS 4a *53
88Lightning WallHVS 5a *4
89StormbringerHVS 5a * 
90Fair Wind
E1 5b  
 'D' Buttress 
92The Skoda
MVS 4b 3
93Treebeard the Happy RabbitE1 5b 1
94The Naked Ledge
HVS 5a  
95Thunder CrackE1 5b **9
96Master PlasterE2 5b * 
97Dirty Thor'tE3 5c * 
HVS 5a  
99'D' Buttress CrackVS 4c * 
 Boulder 1 
101Problem 1
f4+ 13
102Problem 2
f5 4
103Problem 3
f5 7
104Left Flake
f4 7
105Problem 5
f5 3
106Problem 6
f4+ 9
 Boulder 2 
108NE Arete
f6A 6
109Pebble Patrol
f7B **1
110Pigeon Patrolf8A ** 
111The Groove
f5 2
 Boulder 3 
113Problem 10
114The Crack
f5 1
 Trackside Boulder 
116Bob Pyle's Wall
f6C 3
117Bob Pyle's Crack
f4 5

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