Climbs 109
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 420m a.s.l
Faces N

Evening bouldering at Simonside. © Mark D

Crag features

A fabulous crag with top quality single pitch routes in every grade up to E6. The best place in the county for beginners.

Approach notes

From the Forestry Commission Lordenshaw car park, follow the forestry road onto the plateau. The road passes under the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
Agree more traffic needed, but a new venue and a good venue,def be back on a warmer day, nice walk in aswell
Geds - 20/Oct/11
Frazoir is spot on with his comment. Definitely a good place to get the uni groups ;)
Fiend - 01/Oct/11
Fine crag although some of the less popular routes could do with more traffic to keep them clean (plenty of other crags in Northumberland could do with a bit of a rest)
frazoir - 02/Aug/10
Some great climbs, however, be aware of the green mossy, slimey, powdery stuff, they will cause gear (especially cams) failure. Also at some climbs the rock is not as strong and it can break. Some of the grading at the crag is very inconsistent, so don't assume the general logic of british grading at this crag.
duzinga - 02/Jun/08
Very green in late may. Some of the classics had enough traffic that it wasn't a problem but 80% of the grag had 3mm of green flaky stuff all over it.
CurlyStevo - 30/May/05
Prone to 'going off' early in the season when prolonged damp weather results in greasy conditions, but great when dry. Tends to dry quickly in summer esp when windy (eposed) so don't be put off by a splash or two of rain. Grab 'Delicatessen' - delightful VS (MVS?) with a bit of slab (not well protected), a bit of crack work, finishing on an exposed face. Chuffing brill.
John MacDonald - 24/Mar/05
Insufficient traffic!? Very green and slippery, even on the 3 star routes, despite only being October. Potentially fantastic, but dissapointing
Matt Leggett - 28/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Window Buttress face
2 The Prow
-
S 7
3 Window Buttress Face Two VD 3
4 The Flake D 6
5 Slab and Chimney M 15
6 Fenestration Front
-
HS 5
7 Window Buttress
-
M 25
8 Peeping Tom
-
VS 4c 2
9 Window Buttress Face One
-
VD 1
10 Capstone Buttress
-
HS 1
  Boulder Face
12 Zig Zag Route D 92
13 Swastika Chimney D * 97
14 Swastika Face HVD 40
15 Swastika Crack S 4a * 88
16 Kyley's Route HVS 5a * 12
17 Gaucherie Groove VS 4c 3
18 Boulder Face Chimney M 33
19 Flying Nun E1 5a * 18
20 Roth VS 5a 8
21 Overhanging Chimney VD 16
22 Flare Chimney D 8
  Long Layback
24 Boulder Face Corner M 15
25 Nameless Wall VS 4c 41
26 Boulder Face Crack D 84
27 Innominate Crack VD ** 335
28 Flake Corner VS 4c * 265
29 Flake Corner Direct Finish HVS 5a * 77
30 Flake Chimney VD 65
31 Vibram Wall HVS 5a ** 176
32 On Edge E2 5b * 11
33 On the Brink
-
E3 5c 1
34 Long Layback Crack VS 4c *** 55
35 A.K.A Mr. Vegas. E7 6c ***  
36 Command Performance E4 6b *** 10
37 Nine Inch Nails E4 5c  
38 Over the Edge E3 5c *** 24
39 Dirty Corner VD 8
40 On the Border E3 5c  
41 Dry Run E2 5b  
42 Staircase Chimney D 16
43 Two Way Chimney
-
VD 4
44 Coquet Corner
-
VS 4c 1
45 Chinese Crack
-
MVS 4b 2
46 Little 'A' Climb
-
MS 6
  'A' Buttress
48 The Privy HVS 5a  
49 Giant's Stair VS 4c ** 26
50 Great Chimney D *** 218
51 'A' Buttress Left-hand VD 29
52 'A' Buttress Direct VD ** 136
53 'A' Buttress, Right Hand S 4a 77
54 Eden Groove
-
M 6
55 The God Machine E3 5c *  
56 The Wind Tunnel HVS 5a 1
57 Aeolian Wall VS 5a * 31
58 Delicatessen VS 4c *** 195
59 Delicatessen Direct Start
-
HS 4b 30
60 Golden Days
-
E1 5b * 4
61 Gimme Wings
-
E4 6a *  
  Buttress Face
63 Chockstone Crack D 24
64 The Whalers Thoughts
-
HVS 5a  
65 Stepped Buttress
-
M 7
66 Archer's Chimney D 9
67 Sagittarius VS 4c * 40
68 The Quiver VS 5a * 30
69 Wide Eyed and Witless VS 4c 19
70 Quartz Buttress HVS 5a ** 87
71 Regular Nightmare E4 6a *  
72 Blood on the Rooftops E5 6b * 1
73 Gillette E3 5b ** 7
74 Cut Throat E4 6a **  
75 The Stoic E2 5c ** 50
76 Loophole Crack S 4a * 51
77 Les Perchass HVS 5b * 46
78 Nee Perchass VS 5a * 39
79 Broken Toe HVS 5a 2
80 Cairn Crack VD 18
81 Cairn Slab S 4a * 32
82 Cairn Scoop VD 26
83 Cairn Crack West VD 39
84 Sunset Wall S 4a 8
  'B' Buttress
86 'B' Buttress Direct HS 4b * 49
87 'B' Buttress Chimney S 4b * 5
88 Bee Bumble E5 5c * 2
89 Cairn Wall S 4a * 52
90 Lightning Wall HVS 5a * 4
91 Stormbringer HVS 5a *  
92 Fair Wind
-
E1 5b  
  'D' Buttress
94 The Skoda
-
MVS 4b 3
95 Treebeard the Happy Rabbit E1 5b 1
96 The Naked Ledge
-
HVS 5a  
97 Thunder Crack E1 5b ** 9
98 Master Plaster E2 5b *  
99 Dirty Thor't E3 5c *  
100 A-wristed
-
HVS 5a  
101 'D' Buttress Crack VS 4c * 4
  Boulder 1
103 Problem 1
-
f4+ 14
104 Problem 2
-
f5 5
105 Problem 3
-
f5 8
106 Left Flake
-
f4 8
107 Problem 5
-
f5 3
108 Problem 6
-
f4+ 10
  Boulder 2
110 NE Arete
-
f6A 7
111 Pebble Patrol
-
f7B ** 1
112 Pigeon Patrol f8A **  
113 The Groove
-
f5 3
  Boulder 3
115 Problem 10
-
f6C  
116 The Crack
-
f5 1
  Trackside Boulder
118 Bob Pyle's Wall
-
f6C 3
119 Bob Pyle's Crack
-
f4 5
120 East End Buttress
-
D 1

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