UKC

Climbs 50
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 171m a.s.l
Faces NW

Overhanging Wall © johnwright

Crag features

Split in half by a road, the upper half features a mix of bouldering lines, as well as a small slab. Only climbs on this slab that are now climbable are from the left hand end upto the central crack as many wagon loads of stone have been tipped there.

If there is anyone wanting to do a new route then there is plenty of choice, there are plenty of unclimbed rock that is ideal for bouldering in the upper quarry. The lower quarry has plenty of unclimbed/unrecorded rock that have never been properly recorded by teams in the past.

There are unrecorded areas still to be explorered!!!,  but there will be no guarantee that some spotty student from Bretton Hall College has not been there before you many years ago !!!!. So any "new" route climbed will be recorded as a Ist ascent unless someone  from the Bretton Hall college days can come foward with some information.

I have been exploring today 18/10/18 at the unrecorded area. There is quite a few buttresses, not very high maybe 20' high but the best bit there is no rubbish. I will put up some photos soon.

Approach notes

There is a lay by with room for around 15 cars on Woolley edge lane, parking on Common lane is now not possible.

Spent an hour here and did a couple of routes. Not too bad, should've taken a brush but not so green I couldn't get stuck in. Tops are mossy with lots of brambles and leaf litter.
Irvine - 09/Jan/19
Spent an hour attacking the brambles on the little slab, still need to get motivated to move lots of tipped stones. Anybody fancy helping????
johnwright - 05/Dec/17
Went up and had a massive fight with the brambles on top of the little slab. I think I won on points, but only just lol. Managed to do a route as I have not climbed here or anywhere for quite a while.
johnwright - 13/May/17
Have been today to try and get rid of some of the brambles. It's a bit of a task. So please anyone who has time to spare contact me. The topouts need a good clean all along the quarry. any offers?
johnwright - 26/Nov/16
Had a bit of a clean up at the little slab, removed a lot of weeds and shifted lots of stones. The brambles need nuking at the top of the slab, the routes need a good brushing and a bit of sun to dry the rock out. The only route that would be posible when the cleaning is finished will be from the Left hand end to the central crack.
johnwright - 29/Jul/16
Anybody fancies have a go at cleaning up WEQ then contact me and I will be happy to help again. John Wright
johnwright - 06/Jun/16
Just been for an hour after work,it's actually a lot better than expected, but could do with a bit of a clean up
Wsdconst - 22/Apr/15
Used to climb here in the early sixties when I was a boy. Grown ups would sometimes be there with hawser lay ropes and there used to be a rusty peg on an arete which I couldn't do. I don't know why but they used to tip chicken crap and feathers over the edge back then as well.There are much chossier holes in the ground but beautiful Woolley Edge seems to cop for the lot. Maybe Wakefield Council could promote the crag the way Kirklees have done for Holmfirth Cliffe. A good resource underused because of the tipping abuse.
Pete Pozman - 10/Sep/13
Had a quick look after work and it has some potential for some decent bouldering, with plenty more problems than described on here. Will go back with a range of brushes next time! Could do with more traffic though...
Northern Mountain Monkey - 25/Apr/10
Went there for a quick look after work and it seems to be, quite literally, a s*** tip! Not impressed. This was especially evident on the lower edge where people quite obviously park at the top and unload their boot straight over the crag edge. Out of sight out of mind eh!
Andy Miller - 25/Apr/10
surprsingly good venue for bouldering. Some of the routes felt high which added to the enjoyment.
grubes - 11/Sep/09
A suprisingly good little venue. Someone has put a lot of work into cleaning it up and its well worth a visit for an hour if passing.
DerwentDiluted - 20/Mar/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  UPPER QUARRY
  Far Left Wall area (small slab)
3 Slab arete none 3c 6
4 Stumpy none 4b 5
5 Slab route 1 none 5a 5
6 Carbon Black Wall none 4c * 7
7 Slab route 3 none 4a 5
8 Slab route 4 D 5a 4
9 Slab route 5 D 4a 6
10 Little Slab Traverse VB * 2
  Left Wall
12 Left Arete V0- 4a 9
13 Groove Climb V0- 4b 10
14 Tree Crack V0- 4a 10
15 Short Assed Dyno V0- 4a 10
16 Joanne f7A+ 3
Climb name Grade
17 Central Crack V0- 13
18 Left Wall Traverse V0+ * 2
  Central Wall Area
20 Slab and Wall V0 1
21 Shot hole V1 * 1
22 Central Wall Traverse V1 * 1
23 Heather's bulge VB * 1
24 Green groove V2 ** 1
25 Right Arete ( central wall) V0 1
  Barrel buttress area
27 Barrel house f7C  
28 East Side Tale f7B+  
  Right Wall
  Overhanging Wall
31 Ankle Breaker V0+ 5a ** 6
32 Left Arete (left side), Overhanging wall V3 6a * 1
Climb name Grade
33 Sambucus V5 * 2
34 Waylander f7C+  
35 Waylander Extension f8A **  
36 Make Love to a Greasy Spoon V5 * 5
37 Invictus (sit start) f8A  
38 Back to the Middle f7B+  
39 Lesson in Depth f7B  
  Far Right Edge
41 Gazelle f7A+ *** 4
  Cubic block
43 Green dye f6A 1
44 1.15 At The Registry Office f6A 1
45 Honeymoon f3+ 1
  LOWER QUARRY
47 Cage Fight V3 ** 1
48 Mona Lisa
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f7C  

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