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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 25
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 50m a.s.l

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Pushing it on the 3rd Pitch © magicmartin

Crag features

One of the most obvious mountains in Rio, on the coast and a popular tourist attraction "Pao de Acucar" in Portugese and "Sugar Loaf" in English. The most popular area for climbing in Rio. The mountain is about 300m high and offers excellent climbing on gneiss slabs using small quartz features. Most routes are run out

Approach notes

Easiest Access: Travel to Urca square (beside the cable car). Walk to the beach then left and along the coastal path (paved). Along the path on the left are the boulders. on the right are some large boulders that form short sport routes. Follow the path until there is an obvious trail up left into the jungle (usually a lot of traffic). follow this to the top of the hill and take a right. This leads to the base of sugar loaf. Other routes are harder to find and require the Urca guide book. Available from the climbing shop in Ipanema, this is essential if you want to do more than a couple of routes. The Urca area is Military controlled so is considered one of the safest areas in Rio. If climbing sugar loaf, take the cable car down to mid-station and descend back through the Jungle.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Coringa
-
5.7 17
2 Via dos Italianos 5.9 *** 31
3 Via dos Italianos (Brz 7a Sport Start) 6c ** 6
4 Cavalo Louco 5.10b 4
5 Cao Danado I 5.10b 2
Climb name Grade
6 Cao Danado II 5.11d  
7 Cao Danado III
-
5.10b  
8 As de espados * 6a+ * 2
9 Stopida * 6c * 5
10 Via Lemanja * 5.10a ** 1
Climb name Grade
11 Costão * 5.6 4
12 Waldo * 7a+ ***  
13 Passaros De Fogo * 1 ***  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Karolina Mikolajow