Climbs 83
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 526m a.s.l
Faces SE

Climbing at chateaudouble deep in Provence © brianrunner

Crag features

A fine and extensive crag, set high above the valley floor, with a series of tall buttresses jutting from the trees. The crag gets plenty of sunshine and dries surprisingly quickly, despite the tree cover. Many of the pitches are very big, bring plenty of quick-draws - 15 should cover most routes - and a 70m rope.

The tree-covered bases offer some respite from summer heat. The cliffs can be slow to dry after rain and any wind tends to whistle through the gorge. In winter, calm sunny days are the best choice.

Approach notes

Leave Châteaudouble towards Ampus and, 0.6km west of the last building in Châteaudouble, turn left into a narrow and bumpy track. About 0.5km down here is parking for about 20 cars in the clearing. This is at the point the road crosses a (very) small valley on slightly raised causeway. From the parking, walk down the valley as it narrows and steepens. After a rocky section, the tree-filled valley opens out. Follow the pink-marked tracks rightwards (looking out) to locate the right-hand end of the cliff.

The barrier at the end of the track may be closed for shooting or if there is an elevated fire risk. The track is a bit narrow for larger vehicles. Use of the parking area is permitted on the understanding that it is not used for camping in tent or car. 

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Guidebooks

France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ch?teaudouble - Escalade en Drac?nie (2004)
The D955 is still closed (November 2012). If coming from the A8 it is probably best to follow the D54. The track is indeed very bumpy! Might be better to park somewhere on the road and walk down the track.
Matt Bill Platypus - 06/Nov/12
This is a lovely crag, about 20 minutes easy walk from the road and nice rural views out over the valley and back to the picturesque town of chateaudouble. In March 12 the D955 road was closed and we had to approach via Amps. We also left the car at the road as the 'narrow and bumpy track' looked too extreme for our hire car!
brianrunner - 02/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Paklenika
2 Carton-pâte 6a ***  
3 Trouver le pas du danseur 7b *** 1
4 Arma Bianca 7b+ ***  
5 Watysit 7a *** 4
6 L'Hexomil 7a+ ***  
7 Compte tenu du facteur humane 8b ***  
8 S'adapter ou disparaître 7c ***  
9 Le Mox 8a *** 2
10 Totale bricole 8a *** 1
11 Demerde à ou? 7c ***  
12 Boucan 6b+ ** 6
13 L'incertitude demeure 6a ** 2
14 Comment y lé? 7b *  
15 Paklenika 6a+ *** 3
16 Pac-Panik 6c *** 2
17 L'addition 6c+ ***  
18 Trop facile lo zafer 5c *  
19 La peur du Képi 8a+ *  
20 La moucat 4a * 3
21 Le mage à dit 5a *** 7
22 Douce France! 5c *** 5
  Un Point de Vie
24 J'avais un ami 6a *** 6
25 L'homme pressé 5c *** 5
26 Magic noire 6c ***  
27 Soufre et bonheur 6b+ *** 2
28 Moi vouloir grimper 6b+ *** 3
29 Mûrir dans Muru 6b+ *** 5
30 L'estafilade 6c+ *** 1
31 Le Viagra 7a ** 1
32 Yes 3c 5
33 Le Moucat a perdu le couteau (P1) 4c ** 6
34 Le Moucat a perdu le couteau 6c ** 1
35 Oté Zoreil? 4a * 7
36 Le Kinous de nous 4a * 9
37 Le bonheur est aux Marinouns 4c * 9
38 Un point de vie (P1) 5a *** 11
39 Un point de vie 4c ** 5
40 Abraracourcix 6b+ *** 3
41 Mikulas (P1) 4c * 2
42 Mikulas 6c+ **  
43 Gibbon (P1) 5a * 2
44 Gibbon 6c ** 2
45 Snake (P1) 5a * 3
46 Snake 7b ** 1
47 Mulot fâché 6a *** 8
  Grouille à ou?
49 Krabi-Krabi 5c *** 6
50 Tuck-Tuck 6b *** 2
51 Happy Papa 6b+ ** 1
52 Morning Price 5c *** 4
53 Acta-X 6a+ *** 3
54 Shingha 7a *** 6
55 Arthrose 7b *** 2
56 Grouille à ou? 8a ***  
57 Couleur Malabar 7c *** 1
58 Zoreil (P1) 6c ** 1
59 Zoreil 7b *** 3
60 Big Tschang (P1) 5c *  
61 Big Tschang 6c *** 1
  Code Secret
63 Oriane 6a *** 9
64 Slim-Fast 5c *** 1
65 Carte grise 5c *** 10
66 L'échelle au Pépé 5a *** 6
67 Lumière de Noêl 6a+ *** 1
68 Code Secret (P1) 6b *** 7
69 Code Secret 7a+ *** 1
70 Érection totale 7a+ *** 2
71 Solstice (P1) 6a+ ** 7
72 Solstice 7a+ *** 2
73 Dernière séance 6b ** 6
74 Rusalka (P1) 6b+ ** 4
75 Rusalka 7a+ ***  
76 L'hôtel des ronguers (P1) 5c *** 8
77 L'hôtel des ronguers 6b+ ***  
78 Sourire de chauve-souris (P1) 5c *** 10
79 Sourire de chauve-souris 6b+ ** 3
80 Roi de galettes 6a ** 7
81 Kali mera 5c *** 5
  Ti Paille
83 Le pays des mulets 7a+ *** 1
84 Avant mi sava 7a *** 1
85 Ti paille en queue 6c+ *** 1
86 Rougail saucisse 8a ***  
87 Le début de la faim 7c+ ***  
88 Ti punch 7c ***  

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