Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces SW

In Shelob's cave © Mr. K

Crag features

Despite its vegetated appearance, a great cliff. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 45m, mostly slabby but with an abrupt overhang at 2/3 height. Recommended: Babylon (HVS 5a), Half Dome (E2 5c).

Approach notes

From Pilton Green (B4247): park on open land on the N side of the road opposite a white house. Signpost L of the house says Paviland Cave: follow path S through fields to a stile at the head of a valley. Over stile, follow the wall/fence and either jungle-bash to the cliff, or continue down the valley; traverse around the back of the inlet to the seaward buttress on the R. (20mins).

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

BMC have been told that a Peregrine is nesting in East Gully Groove in 2016. Please avoid this area and the routes either side until the birds have fledged.

Visited at the weekend for the first time in 10 years, and was slightly shocked at how overgrown it's become. Does anyone climb here these days, or is everyone too busy clipping bolts?
Simon Caldwell - 28/Aug/13
I did a topo of this cliff a few years ago. It is online at http://homepage.ntlworld.com/adrian99/paviland_topo/index.htm
Adrian Jones - 07/Dec/05
Hay ive found a new route on this crag u start in the big cave at the base of sherlob then climb the wall on the right and basicall follow the light ehn u come out onto a ledge and go straight up here to the top ive graded this about HS 4c but will people try the route and tell me what they think of the grade i gave it but just a little tip wear a helmet get back to me guys my email is welshlad16@hotmail.com cheers and happy climbing
will.s - 30/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Ring
-
HS 4b ** 111
2 East Gully Groove HVS 5a ** 47
3 Shelob HS 4b * 120
4 Gimli
-
VS 4c * 20
5 Liang Shan Po
-
E1 5b * 27
6 Half Dome
-
E2 5c ** 19
7 The Cure
-
E4 6b 1
8 Talons E2 6a 2
9 Babylon
-
HVS 5a 31
10 Middle Earth Direct
-
VS 4c 6
11 Gimli Direct
-
E1 5b 2
12 Yanks
-
E4 6c 1
13 Liberty
-
E2 5c 1
14 Metal Fatigue
-
E3 6a 1
15 Simple Minds
-
VS 4c 1
16 Mouse House
-
E2 5c 1
17 Ferrit
-
HVS 5a 1
18 Shrew
-
HVS 5a 1
19 Rat
-
E3 6a 1
20 Middle Earth
-
VS 4c 18
21 Fellowship Of The Ring E1 5c 6
22 Polly's Route
-
VD 14
23 Armageddon
-
HVS 5a 6
24 Balrog
-
HS 4b 2
25 Marco Golo
-
E2 5b 1
26 Marco Golo Direct
-
E3 6b 1
27 Moacs Are Extinct
-
HVS 5a 1
28 Black Widow HVS 5a 2

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