Climbs 430
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces S

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CUMC silhouettes at sunset © grumpyoldjanner

Crag features

A beautiful and popular area, providing the greatest concentration of the best traditional routes on Gower and some of its most spectacular. It is possibly the best area for a first visit to Gower. The area lies between Fall Bay in the west and Mewslade Bay in the east. It contains a variety of gullies and buttresses, with climbing of all grades with both non-tidal and very tidal areas which are individually noted. 

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a ".... new temporary closure due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 31st July.

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but we have been infomed by the NT Ranger  that "I am informing you that I want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August 2019. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying. There are lots of examples where Swift populations have been lost from Welsh towns and villages in recent years.I only know of one other location where Swifts are breeding in natural features and that’s on coastal cliff face in Pembrokeshire".

 

Climbed on Sunday - routes at Lewes Castle East from 'The Bottle' to 'South West Diedre' had nesting birds
Paulos87 - 23/Apr/19
climbed here yesterday and found that there a coughs nesting in the route rib and crack!! best to avoid this for a while
dringocymru1988 - 29/May/15
Map tags in wrong places/order. Block Buttress is immediately west of Trident Gully, which is immediately west of Four Gullies, and Catacomb is immediately above Trident and the 4th (west-most) gully of Four Gullies.
jogwen - 30/Aug/11
this crag is covered by Yellow Wall, Eyeball Wall, Jackys Tor, Cathedral W. Please use that
chris wyatt - 19/Feb/11
Upper Jackys Tor is a fantastic crag, away from the crowds and fantastic mid grade routes, worth a couple of visits.
Ivan Bicknell - 30/Jun/09
Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lewes Castle
2 Fall Bay Girdle HVS 5a ** 14
3 Bucket HVS 5b 1
4 Ket
-
HVS 5a 22
5 Mandrake
-
HVS 5b 6
6 Eclipse E1 5c 1
7 Seket E1 5b 24
8 Monkey See and Monkey Do
-
E4 6a * 6
9 Reptiles and Samurai
-
E4 6a * 8
10 Welsh Witch
-
E3 6a 2
11 Isis HVS 5a *** 421
12 Horus
-
HVS 5a * 52
13 Rhea HVS 5a ** 127
14 Lazy Sunday Afternoon E2 5b *** 103
15 Frantic Sunday Morning
-
E2 5c 3
16 Osiris VS 4c *** 674
17 Seth
-
E1 5c *** 108
18 Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon Combination
-
E2 5c *** 14
19 Horsis
-
HVS 5a * 86
20 Ra
-
HVS 5a 14
21 Fallout VS 4b 10
22 South East Diedre
-
HVS 5a 18
23 Continuity Corner HVS 5a 1
24 Gstelli
-
S 93
25 Gethsemane S 4a ** 645
26 Eden HS 4a 394
27 The Bottle VS 4b * 294
28 The Bottle (Direct Start) HVS 5b 21
29 Cave Cracks E2 5c * 9
30 Cave Cracks Direct
-
E3 5c 6
31 Age Before Beauty E1 5a 1
32 South West Diedre Left Variant E1 5b * 1
33 South West Diedre
-
HVS 5a ** 267
34 South West Diedre Variant
-
VS 4c 88
35 Instigator HVS 5a 72
36 The Revolution's Here E4 6a *  
37 Combination VS ** 98
38 South East Arête E3 5c * 7
39 Rhydd HVS 4c 4
40 Rash Prediction
-
E1 5b * 1
41 Every One's a Coconut E1 5b 1
42 Twilight HVS 5a 1
43 Till Rock Doth Us Part
-
E4 5c *  
44 Gerontology VS 4b  
45 What Took You So Long?
-
S  
46 JT Where Is He HVS 5a 1
47 Down The Pan
-
VS 4c  
48 That Cistern Feeling
-
E3 6a  
  King Wall
50 Milky Doors HVS 5a ** 1
51 Prickle Lip Crack HVS 5b ** 2
52 Niord S 20
53 Skadi
-
S 9
54 Llethrid
-
HS 4a 18
55 Frigg VS 4b * 93
56 Bolder
-
VS 4b * 23
57 Beowulf VS 4b 40
58 Beowulf's Little Mistress E1 5c 2
59 Ragnarok
-
HS 4a ** 245
60 Trying Lines VS 4c 10
61 Sweyn HS 4b 67
62 Gefion HVS 5a 6
63 Idun S  
64 King Route
-
S 152
65 Freya
-
HS 4a 48
66 Valkyrie
-
VS 5a 40
67 Vik
-
HS 4b 34
68 Cleft Corner S 4a 60
69 Great Cleft
-
D 172
70 Wulst
-
S 12
71 Vanir
-
VS 4c 64
72 Loki HS 35
73 Balder
-
VS 5a 166
74 Fafnir HS 4b ** 334
75 Tyr
-
S 4a 19
76 Amble
-
VD 211
77 Pytt S 62
78 Vorder
-
S 4a 73
79 Ides S  
80 Fenris HS 4b 4
81 Thor
-
S 4a 41
82 Odin
-
VS 4b 38
83 Valhalla HVS 4c 20
84 Needle Crack
-
VS 4b ** 147
85 Joe Says It's Cool E2 5c * 10
86 Nimbus
-
S 4c 21
87 Genesis
-
HD 24
88 Varus M 8
89 King Wall Girdle
-
VS 4c 4
  Giant's Cave
91 Flake Corner VD 7
92 Wall Climb VD  
93 Slight
-
HVS 4c 8
94 Killing Time E2 6a  
95 Red Admiral
-
E3 6a * 2
96 Wierdo E5 6a  
97 Errant
-
E2 5c 24
98 Super Rock E6 6b **  
99 Masterpiece E6 6b ***  
100 Napalm in the Morning E7 6c ***  
101 Thriller E4 6a ** 2
102 A Rush of Blood to the Head E6 6b **  
103 Can't Buy a Thrill E5 6b **  
104 Top Prat 7b+ ***  
105 The Divine Guiding Light E6 6b *** 1
106 Lost Souls A2  
107 The Sistine Ceiling E6 6c ***  
108 Jesus Wept E6 6b ***  
109 Charlie Don't Surf E4 6a * 21
110 Toejam Football E4 6b *  
111 Madame Butterfly E5 6b ** 9
112 Giant's Cave Traverse A3  
113 Nick'd E2 5b * 3
114 Shannara
-
HS 4a 27
115 Betst D 2
116 Sham D *  
117 Ease M 3
118 Undercut Arête V2 * 1
119 Flake HS 5
  Devil's Truck Area
121 Lytel S 52
122 Legge
-
S 4a 55
123 The Nose
-
HS 4a * 104
124 Nervus
-
VS 4c 28
125 Transit
-
HS 4b 37
126 Aschen
-
HVS 4c * 28
127 Gull Corner
-
VS 4b 27
128 White Lime D 23
129 The Razor D 13
130 Strogelen VS 4c  
131 Count Down HVS 5a  
132 Endeavour HVS 4c *  
133 High Chimney S 4a 6
134 Old Nic E4 6a *  
135 Top of the Form E4 6a *  
136 Saratoga E4 6b  
137 Tom Cat E3 5c  
138 Ledges M  
139 Left South Wall VD  
140 Divider M  
141 Right South Wall S 6
142 West Corner D  
143 South East Diedre VS 4c ** 4
  Hairy Dog Wall
145 Castor VS 4c  
146 Pollux S 4a  
147 King of Pain E6 6b *  
148 Pump up the Gower E5 6a **  
149 Hairy Dog E5 6a **  
150 King Swing E5 6b **  
151 Hound of Hell E5 6a *  
152 Sense of Doubt E3 6a  
Climb name Grade
153 Without a Doubt E5 6c  
154 Cerberus E5 6b  
  Yellow Wall
156 5 Minutes to Kill
-
E3 6a  
157 Winter Warmer
-
E3 6a 1
158 Yellow Hammer E5 6a 1
159 Skylark
-
E2 5c ** 8
160 Code Yellow E4 6a ** 1
161 Enigma
-
E4 6b ** 4
162 Enigma Variation
-
E5 6b *  
163 Muppet Show
-
E1 5a * 36
164 Heroin E5 6b *  
165 Chasing the Dragon
-
E8 6c **  
166 Yellow Wall E3 5c *** 44
167 Hard Liner E6 6b **  
168 Steam Train E4 6a ** 6
169 Transformer E3 6a *** 17
170 Yellow Regeneration E6 6b *** 2
171 Man of the Earth E6 6b *** 3
172 Skyhedral Wall
-
E6 6b *** 2
173 Holy Grail
-
E2 5b ** 11
174 Gafaelwy E2 5c 1
175 Pilgrim E1 5b 1
176 Germany Calling E3 5c * 1
177 Transverse E2 6a 1
  Conglomerate Cliff
179 Don't Look Up
-
E3 5c ** 1
180 A Shadow Hanging Over Me
-
E2 5b ** 1
  Eyeball Wall
182 Contact 10.10 E4 6a 3
183 Fovea 40 E3 6a 4
184 Eyeline E3 5c 3
185 Specky Four Eyes E2 5c 1
186 Eyeball to Eyeball E2 5c 1
  Jacky's Tor
188 Rateau de Chevre M  
189 Angel Flake M  
190 Slanting Corner D  
191 Left Ramp D  
192 Red Corner VD  
193 Wall and Crest VD  
194 Kinder S 3
195 Guardian S * 8
196 Cave Corner
-
D 9
197 Chantilly Lace HVS 5b ** 15
198 Shock and Awe E6 6c ***  
199 Possessed E4 6a *  
200 Repossessed E4 6a *  
201 The Damned E2 6a  
202 Cave Traverse HD 4a ** 22
203 Pluto VS 4b  
204 Narrow Slab VD  
205 Seaward D  
206 Slab and Wall VD  
207 Agamemnon VS 4c  
208 V Groove
-
E3 5c ** 9
209 Plot 13 E4 6a *** 2
210 Promise of a Miracle E5 6a  
211 Crank the Hummer E3 6a *  
212 Stuntmaster E5 6a  
213 Cut Across Shorty E3 6a  
214 Red Diedre HVS 5a * 11
215 Mittel VD 7
216 Awry S  
  Upper Jacky's Tor
218 Leftovers E1 5b 1
219 Codpiece HS 4a 79
220 Thanksgiving HVS 5a 55
221 Praise Be HVS 5a 10
222 Raindrops HVS 5a 34
223 Raindrops Direct Finish E1 5b * 4
224 All There VS 4c * 65
225 A Bit on the Side VS 4b * 59
226 Unplanned VS 4b  
  Rolly Bottom Buttress
228 Rolly Poly Arête E2 5c  
229 Rolly Bottom Buttress VS 4c 1
230 The Sandpiper E3 5c * 1
231 Snidewhiner E3 6a  
232 Sidewinder HVS 5a 4
233 Trivial Pursuit HVD  
  Cathedral Wall
235 Prima
-
S 14
236 Hades
-
HS 4b 5
237 Kalk
-
S  
238 Owch
-
HS 4a 14
239 Avoiding the Sog HS 4b 4
240 Dulfer
-
S 4a * 18
241 Dolce Vita
-
HVS 4c 4
242 Cyntaff
-
HVS 5a ** 18
243 Faint White Hope E3 6a * 2
244 Giant Potamus E3 5c ** 1
245 Adam
-
S 4a 8
246 Kaos VS 4c  
247 Eve S 4a 5
248 Eva VS 4c  
  The Pulpit
250 Gog M  
251 Cleft M  
252 Indefinite D  
253 Pulpit Fissure D  
254 Schusselkar VS 4c 3
255 Yus Yus E2 5b * 2
256 Smoove VS 4c 6
257 Gold Kappel VS 4c  
258 Canalog VS 4c  
259 The Beak VD  
260 Checkmate VS 4b 4
261 Font VS 4b  
  The Prows
263 Back Chimney M  
264 South West Corner S  
265 Flying Buttress M  
266 Right Edge M  
267 Divide M  
268 Cheat VD  
269 Central Crack S  
270 Right Curving Crack M  
271 The Old Man HS 4c  
  The Aisle
273 North Edge VS 4c  
274 North Edge Direct E1 5a  
275 Black Corner D  
276 Twin Corner Left D  
277 Twin Corner Right VD  
278 Barefoot Acrobat HS 4b 1
279 Sump It Up E1 5c  
280 Boom Boom Boris E4 6b  
281 Treasure E3 5c * 2
282 Zoom, Zoom, Doris E4 6a  
283 Sixteen Hooves E1 5b * 1
  Molar Wall
285 Don't Blow It E2 6a  
286 Bochlwyd
-
HVS 5a 1
287 He Man
-
E2 5c 1
288 Muscle Man
-
VS 4c 2
289 Christa
-
HS 4b 3
290 Straight Crack VD 2
291 Recessed Wall VD 2
292 Sharp Corner D * 2
293 Blocky Corner VD 2
294 Curving Corner
-
HVS 5a 7
295 Cavity Edge D  
296 Cavity Crack
-
S * 15
297 Deception Crack S 4
298 Two Step Wall HS 4b  
299 Thrutch
-
HS 4b 1
300 Hairline S  
301 First Corner
-
S 2
302 Second Corner S  
303 Twist HS 4a  
304 Third Corner S  
Climb name Grade
  White Edge
306 Herring Gull HS  
307 Yearling HS  
308 Real Men Laugh at Rain VS 4c  
309 Now I'm 64 VS 4c  
310 Ha-He Verschniedung VS 4c 2
311 White Edge VD * 21
312 Stretching Sargeant Ryan E4 6b *  
313 White Whale E1 5b 3
314 White Elephant E1 5b  
315 Pigeon Crack VS 4c 2
  Block Buttress
317 South West Edge
-
M 13
318 Piz
-
HS 4b 20
319 Kleine VS 4c  
320 Thing HVS 5a  
321 Funny Fish in a Hole E1 5c * 5
322 Cima E1 5b ** 8
323 Kaiser HVS 5a ** 21
324 The Limping Limpet E5 6a  
325 Power Trap E3 5c *** 6
326 South Pillar Rib
-
HS 4a ** 78
327 Burn the Boss HVS 5a  
328 South Buttress
-
S 5
329 Deep Crack HS 2
330 Big Step D 2
331 Picket Line E1 5b 1
  Trident Gully and Ridge
333 Long Rib M  
334 The Cloth Eared Brown Mullet
-
E2 5c * 5
335 Ground Swell E3 6a  
336 Sharma E3 5c 1
337 West Pillar Corner S 4a 8
338 Central Crack VD 11
339 Meander D * 1
340 Kopf Out HVS 5b 1
341 Jiggler's Chimney HS 4a 1
342 Balm VS 4c  
343 Malm
-
VS 4c 1
344 Wriggler's Chimney HS 4c * 1
345 Trident Wall E1 5b * 4
346 South West Diedre
-
HS 4b 4
347 Pillar Crest M 11
348 Pillar Groove VD 2
349 High and Mighty E1 5b 2
350 Weak and Flabby E3 5c 2
351 Questions HVS 4c 1
352 Answers VS 4b 1
  Catacomb Gully
354 Attack the Ghost HVS 5a 1
355 Celtic Uprising E1 5b 13
356 Relics E3 6a 2
357 Necropolis E4 5c  
358 West Corner Crack HS 4b 25
359 Ribbery S 65
360 Ribald HVS 5b 5
361 Rib and Crack HS 4a 53
362 The Jewel VS 4c * 65
363 Sharp Eyed E5 6a *  
364 My Wife and I E5 6a  
365 Crypt E2 5b 3
366 The Dungeon E4 6a  
367 Left Over D 1
368 Gunpowder E3 6a  
369 Franceschi E2 5b 6
370 Franceschi Direct Finish E2 5c 1
371 Banana Man E4 6a 2
372 Treason E4 6b  
373 Nemesis E3 6b  
374 Trubble HVS 4c  
375 Gamma VS 4c 51
376 Beta HS 4b 62
377 Midel VD 36
378 Alpha D 27
379 Little Wall D  
  Four Gullies
381 Narrow Cleft
-
M  
382 Left Pillar Edge
-
M 1
383 Ramp and Slab
-
D 7
384 Black Fissure
-
M  
385 Unnamed
-
HS 4a 2
386 West Side
-
M 3
387 West Pillar
-
M 1
388 KLAG (Rough!)
-
VS 5a 1
389 Herzog Kamin
-
S  
390 West Diedre
-
VD 3
391 Main Diedre
-
D 3
392 West Wall
-
HS 1
393 Central Rib
-
M 4
394 Eleven Year Old's Chimney (AKA Iceberg Chimney) VS 5a  
395 Double Knee Chimney E2 5b *  
396 Honeymoon Chimney HVS 5a *  
397 Buhl Riss
-
VS 4c *  
398 South West Corner
-
M  
399 Botzong
-
S  
400 Block Fissure
-
D  
401 Block
-
S 4c 2
402 Black Corner
-
S 4c  
403 Small Corner
-
D  
  Grey Wall
405 Grey Day Plus E2 5b  
406 The Queer Gang E2 5b 1
407 Direct E3 5c  
408 Superdirect E3 6a  
409 Ermintrude E1 5b 2
410 Gurtrude E2 5c  
411 PMC II HVS 5b 10
412 Tipped to be Massive E3 5c  
413 South-East Chimney D 7
414 Wall and Corner VS 4b 9
415 Double Ledge'd Sword HS 4b 2
416 Lego Bricks D 2
  Thurba West
418 Chimney Climb D  
419 Right Edge VD  
420 Cracked Wall VD 1
421 South Corner S  
422 Museum Piece E4 6b * 1
423 Nogolo E3 6a  
424 Plastic Wings E1 5b  
425 Amuseland E1 5b * 1
426 Money Eater E3 6a 1
427 Solo
-
E1 5b 3
428 Moneyspinner HVS 5b *  
429 Progression VS 4b  
  Thurba Head
431 Toad S  
432 Pristine S  
433 Fountain S  
434 The Needle M  
435 Gully Climb D  
436 The Bastion VD  
437 Central Cleft S  
438 Right Crackss E2 5b *  
439 The Thurba Pillar E5 6b ***  
440 Earthly Powers E5 6a ***  
441 Unearthly Power E5 6c **  
442 Cool Britannia E6 6b **  
443 Thin Ice E4 6a **  
444 Barnacle Bill E1 5b **  
445 Summer Wine E3 6a **  
446 The Thief That Never Was E3 6a  
447 Junior Jaws E1 5b * 2
448 Laughing Gear E1 5a  
449 W i m p S  
450 Delegation HVS 5a  
451 Depression S  
452 Knight Games S  
453 An Oxford Connection VD  
454 A Day Out With Dave HVS 5a 20
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers jumpingfrog and dannyboy83