UKC

Climbs 108
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

CUMC silhouettes at sunset © grumpyoldjanner

Crag features

A collection of buttresses spread over some distance - the OS ref is a guide. Routes up to 45m including (in Giants Cave) The Divine Guiding Light, a huge roof traverse exiting a blowhole - soft E7? More accessible are Osiris (VS 4c) and Seth (sandbag E1 5b). Some loose rock: choose routes with care. Generally a wonderful venue; often busy.

Approach notes

Tidal in some parts, depending on the buttress.

From Rhossili car park (SS 415 881). About 20 minutes' walk.

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August 2016. The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

All other routes on the butress are unaffected.

Guidebooks

Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  King Wall
2 Niord S 20
3 Skadi
-
S 9
4 Llethrid
-
HS 4a 18
5 Frigg VS 4b * 85
6 Bolder
-
VS 4b * 21
7 Beowulf VS 4b 39
8 Beowulf's little mistress E1 5c 2
9 Ragnarok
-
HS 4a ** 228
10 Trying Lines VS 4c 8
11 Sweyn HS 4b 64
12 Gefion HS 4b 6
13 King Route
-
S 145
14 Freya
-
HS 4a 46
15 Valkyrie
-
VS 5a 36
16 Vik
-
HS 4b 34
17 Cleft corner S 4a 58
18 Great Cleft
-
D 159
19 Wulst
-
S 12
20 Vanir
-
VS 4c 61
21 Balder
-
VS 5a 150
22 Loki
-
HS 34
23 Tyr
-
S 4a 19
24 Fafnir S 4a 307
25 Amble
-
VD 195
26 Pytt S 56
27 Vorder
-
S 4a 72
28 Thor
-
S 4a 40
29 Odin
-
VS 4b 37
30 Valhalla HVS 4c 19
31 Needle Crack
-
VS 4b ** 142
32 Joe Says It's Cool (King Wall) E2 5c * 10
33 Nimbus
-
S 4c 20
34 Genesis
-
HD 24
35 Varus M 8
36 King Wall Girdle
-
VS 4c 4
  Lewes Castle (a.k.a. Fall Bay Butress)
38 Fall Bay Girdle
-
VS 4c, 4b ** 13
Climb name Grade
39 Bucket HVS 5b 1
40 Ket
-
HVS 5a 22
41 Mandrake
-
HVS 5b 6
42 Eclipse E1 5c 1
43 Seket E1 5b 20
44 Monkey See And Monkey Do
-
E4 6a * 6
45 Reptiles And Samurai
-
E4 6a * 7
46 Welsh Witch
-
E3 6a 2
47 Isis HVS 5a *** 383
48 Horus
-
HVS 5a * 50
49 Rhea HVS 5a ** 118
50 Lazy Sunday Afternoon E2 5b *** 94
51 Frantic Sunday Morning
-
E2 5c 3
52 Osiris VS 4c *** 620
53 Seth
-
E1 5c *** 103
54 Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon Combination
-
E2 5c *** 12
55 Horsis
-
HVS 5a * 81
56 Ra
-
HVS 5a 14
57 Fallout VS 4b 10
58 South East Diedre
-
HVS 5a 18
59 Continuity Corner HVS 5a 1
60 Gstelli
-
S 90
61 Gethsemane S 4a ** 599
62 Eden VS 4c 357
63 The Bottle VS 4b * 272
64 The Bottle (Direct Start Variant) HVS 5b 21
65 Cave Cracks E2 5c * 8
66 Cave Cracks Direct
-
E3 5c 6
67 Age before beauty E1 5a 1
68 South west diedre west variant E1 5b * 1
69 South West Diedre
-
HVS 5a ** 239
70 South West Diedre Variant
-
VS 4c 82
71 Instigator HVS 5a 66
72 Combination VS ** 91
73 South East Arete E3 5c * 6
74 Rhydd HVS 4c 4
75 JT Where Is He HVS 5a 1
76 Rash Prediction *
-
E1 5b 1
Climb name Grade
77 Everyone's a coconut * E1 5b 1
78 Twilight * HVS 5a 1
  Giant's Cave
80 Flake Corner VD 6
81 Slight
-
HVS 4c 8
82 Red Admiral
-
E3 6a * 2
83 Errant
-
E2 5c 22
84 Thriller E4 6a ** 2
85 The Divine Guiding Light E6 6b *** 1
86 Charlie Don't Surf E4 6a * 21
87 Madame Butterfly E5 6b ** 9
88 Nick'd E2 5b * 3
89 Shannara
-
HS 4a 26
90 Ease M 3
91 Undercut Arete V2 5b/5c * 1
92 Flake HS 5
93 Top Prat * 7b+ ***  
  Devil's truck Area
95 Lytel S 48
96 Legge
-
S 4a 52
97 The Nose
-
HS 4a * 97
98 Nervus
-
VS 4c 27
99 Transit
-
HS 4b 35
100 Aschen
-
HVS 4c * 24
101 Gull Corner
-
VS 4b 25
102 White Lime D 23
103 The Razor D 13
104 Endeavour HVS 4c *  
105 High Chimney S 4a 6
106 Right South Wall S 5
107 West Corner D  
108 South-East Pillar HVS 5a ** 4
  Obsolete Lines
110 Massive Attack VS 4b ** 2
111 Milky Doors * HVS 5a ** 1
112 Prickle Lip Crack * HVS 5b ** 2
113 Canyon Traverse * V2 5c ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jumpingfrog