UKC

Climbs 367
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

CUMC silhouettes at sunset © grumpyoldjanner

Crag features

A beautiful and popular area, providing the greatest concentration of the best traditional routes on Gower and some of its most spectacular. It is possibly the best area for a first visit to Gower. The area lies between Fall Bay in the west and Mewslade Bay in the east. It contains a variety of gullies and buttresses, with climbing of all grades with both nontidal and very tidal areas which are individually noted. 

Access Advice

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August 2016. The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

All other routes on the butress are unaffected.

Guidebooks

climbed here yesterday and found that there a coughs nesting in the route rib and crack!! best to avoid this for a while
dringocymru1988 - 29/May/15
Map tags in wrong places/order. Block Buttress is immediately west of Trident Gully, which is immediately west of Four Gullies, and Catacomb is immediately above Trident and the 4th (west-most) gully of Four Gullies.
jogwen - 30/Aug/11
this crag is covered by Yellow Wall, Eyeball Wall, Jackys Tor, Cathedral W. Please use that
chris wyatt - 19/Feb/11
Upper Jackys Tor is a fantastic crag, away from the crowds and fantastic mid grade routes, worth a couple of visits.
Ivan Bicknell - 30/Jun/09
Someone needs to take this crag off the database. Its covered under fall bay butress
chris wyatt - 12/Mar/07
Have to agree with comments on the looseness of Combination - says he, nursing a broken ankle!
gbuchanan - 05/Jul/06
Great climbing on this excellent crag, but I took a fall off of Combination (VS 4b)where there was a large amount of very big and very loose rock. Standing on top of the buttress near the base, my (sober) friend said the whole thing was shifting under my weight! I either went well off route, or someone needs to look at this route and judge how safe & solid the rock is.
nickle - 18/Jul/05
A great climbing experience if you geta chance do osiris it must be one of the best routes on the crag a treverse below the overhang to finish just passed. give it a bash if your there worth while
will.s - 11/Dec/03
we got a group to ab off fall bay buttress and they loved as you can see from above and i really enjoyed watching them do we got some great snaps which i will put on. well done all for doing it
will - 11/Dec/03
We abseiled down Fall bay butress last week, it was scary but i did it and it was only my second time out. It looked higher to me cos im tiny. There was birds flying underneath us. The surfers looked like dots your a whimp if you dont do it!
terri - 16/Oct/03
Best crag on the Gower at the VS - E2 grade, no tides!
phil leng - 08/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lewes Castle
2 Fall Bay Girdle HVS 5a ** 14
3 Bucket HVS 5b 1
4 Ket
-
HVS 5a 22
5 Mandrake
-
HVS 5b 6
6 Eclipse E1 5c 1
7 Seket E1 5b 20
8 Monkey See and Monkey Do
-
E4 6a * 6
9 Reptiles and Samurai
-
E4 6a * 8
10 Welsh Witch
-
E3 6a 2
11 Isis HVS 5a *** 401
12 Horus
-
HVS 5a * 50
13 Rhea HVS 5a ** 119
14 Lazy Sunday Afternoon E2 5b *** 96
15 Frantic Sunday Morning
-
E2 5c 3
16 Osiris VS 4c *** 639
17 Seth
-
E1 5c *** 105
18 Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon Combination
-
E2 5c *** 12
19 Horsis
-
HVS 5a * 81
20 Ra
-
HVS 5a 14
21 Fallout VS 4b 10
22 South East Diedre
-
HVS 5a 18
23 Continuity Corner HVS 5a 1
24 Gstelli
-
S 92
25 Gethsemane S 4a ** 612
26 Eden HS 4a 371
27 The Bottle VS 4b * 275
28 The Bottle (Direct Start) HVS 5b 21
29 Cave Cracks E2 5c * 8
30 Cave Cracks Direct
-
E3 5c 6
31 Age Before Beauty E1 5a 1
32 South West Diedre Left Variant E1 5b * 1
33 South West Diedre
-
HVS 5a ** 254
34 South West Diedre Variant
-
VS 4c 82
35 Instigator HVS 5a 69
36 The Revolution's Here * E4 6a *  
37 Combination VS ** 92
38 South East Arête E3 5c * 6
39 Rhydd HVS 4c 4
40 Rash Prediction *
-
E1 5b * 1
41 Every One's a Coconut * E1 5b 1
42 Twilight * HVS 5a 1
43 Till Rock Doth Us Part *
-
E4 5c *  
44 Gerontology * VS 4b  
45 What Took You So Long? *
-
S  
46 JT Where Is He HVS 5a 1
47 Down The Pan *
-
VS 4c  
48 That Cistern Feeling *
-
E3 6a  
  King Wall
50 Niord S 20
51 Skadi
-
S 9
52 Llethrid
-
HS 4a 18
53 Frigg VS 4b * 87
54 Bolder
-
VS 4b * 21
55 Beowulf VS 4b 40
56 Beowulf's Little Mistress E1 5c 2
57 Ragnarok
-
HS 4a ** 237
58 Trying Lines VS 4c 8
59 Sweyn HS 4b 65
60 Gefion HVS 5a 6
61 Idun * S  
62 King Route
-
S 148
63 Freya
-
HS 4a 46
64 Valkyrie
-
VS 5a 36
65 Vik
-
HS 4b 34
66 Cleft Corner S 4a 60
67 Great Cleft
-
D 168
68 Wulst
-
S 12
69 Vanir
-
VS 4c 63
70 Loki HS 35
71 Balder
-
VS 5a 157
72 Fafnir HS 4b ** 319
73 Tyr
-
S 4a 19
74 Amble
-
VD 204
75 Pytt S 58
76 Vorder
-
S 4a 73
77 Ides * S  
78 Fenris * HS 4b  
79 Thor
-
S 4a 41
80 Odin
-
VS 4b 37
81 Valhalla HVS 4c 19
82 Needle Crack
-
VS 4b ** 143
83 Joe Says It's Cool E2 5c * 10
84 Nimbus
-
S 4c 21
85 Genesis
-
HD 24
86 Varus M 8
87 King Wall Girdle
-
VS 4c 4
  Giant's Cave
89 Flake Corner VD 6
90 Wall Climb * VD  
91 Slight
-
HVS 4c 8
92 Killing Time * E2 6a  
93 Red Admiral
-
E3 6a * 2
94 Wierdo * E5 6a  
95 Errant
-
E2 5c 24
96 Super Rock * E6 6b **  
97 Masterpiece * E6 6b ***  
98 Napalm in the Morning * E7 6c ***  
99 Thriller E4 6a ** 2
100 A Rush of Blood to the Head * E6 6b **  
101 Can't Buy a Thrill * E5 6b **  
102 Top Prat * 7b+ ***  
103 The Divine Guiding Light E6 6b *** 1
104 Lost Souls * A2  
105 The Sistine Ceiling * E6 6c ***  
106 Jesus Wept * E6 6b ***  
107 Charlie Don't Surf E4 6a * 21
108 Toejam Football * E4 6b *  
109 Madame Butterfly E5 6b ** 9
110 Giant's Cave Traverse * A3  
111 Nick'd E2 5b * 3
112 Shannara
-
HS 4a 26
113 Betst * D 2
114 Sham * D *  
115 Ease M 3
116 Undercut Arête V2 * 1
117 Flake HS 5
  Devil's Truck Area
119 Lytel S 48
120 Legge
-
S 4a 51
121 The Nose
-
HS 4a * 97
122 Nervus
-
VS 4c 27
123 Transit
-
HS 4b 34
124 Aschen
-
HVS 4c * 24
125 Gull Corner
-
VS 4b 25
126 White Lime D 23
127 The Razor D 13
128 Strogelen * VS 4c  
129 Count Down * HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
130 Endeavour HVS 4c *  
131 High Chimney S 4a 6
132 Old Nic * E4 6a *  
133 Top of the Form * E4 6a *  
134 Saratoga * E4 6b  
135 Tom Cat * E3 5c  
136 Ledges * M  
137 Left South Wall * VD  
138 Divider * M  
139 Right South Wall S 5
140 West Corner D  
141 South East Diedre VS 4c ** 4
  Hairy Dog Wall
143 Castor * VS 4c  
144 Pollux * S 4a  
145 King of Pain * E6 6b *  
146 Pump up the Gower * E5 6a **  
147 Hairy Dog * E5 6a **  
148 King Swing * E5 6b **  
149 Hound of Hell * E5 6a *  
150 Sense of Doubt * E3 6a  
151 Without a Doubt * E5 6c  
152 Cerberus * E5 6b  
  Yellow Wall
154 5 Minutes to Kill
-
E3 6a  
155 Winter Warmer
-
E3 6a 1
156 Yellow Hammer * E5 6a  
157 Skylark
-
E2 5c ** 7
158 Code Yellow E4 6a ** 1
159 Enigma
-
E4 6b ** 4
160 Enigma Variation
-
E5 6b *  
161 Muppet Show
-
E1 5a * 35
162 Heroin E5 6b *  
163 Chasing the Dragon
-
E8 6c **  
164 Yellow Wall E3 5c *** 44
165 Hard Liner E6 6b **  
166 Steam Train E4 6a ** 6
167 Transformer E3 6a *** 16
168 Yellow Regeneration E6 6b *** 2
169 Man of the Earth E6 6b *** 3
170 Skyhedral Wall
-
E6 6b *** 2
171 Holy Grail
-
E2 5b ** 11
172 Gafaelwy E2 5c 1
173 Pilgrim E1 5b 1
174 Germany Calling E3 5c * 1
175 Transverse E2 6a 1
  Jacky's Tor
177 Cave Corner
-
D 8
178 Chantilly Lace HVS 5b ** 14
179 Shock and Awe * E6 6c ***  
180 Possessed * E4 6a *  
181 Repossessed * E4 6a *  
182 The Damned * E2 6a  
183 Cave Traverse HD 4a ** 20
184 Pluto * VS 4b  
185 Narrow Slab * VD  
186 Seaward * D  
187 Slab and Wall * VD  
188 Agamemnon * VS 4c  
189 V Groove
-
E3 5c ** 9
190 Plot 13 * E4 6a *** 2
191 Promise of a Miracle * E5 6a  
192 Crank the Hummer * E3 6a *  
193 Stuntmaster * E5 6a  
194 Cut Across Shorty * E3 6a  
195 Red Diedre HVS 5a * 9
196 Mittel VD 7
197 Awry * S  
  Upper Jacky's Tor
199 Leftovers * E1 5b 1
200 Codpiece HS 4a 75
201 Thanksgiving HVS 5a 53
202 Praise Be HVS 5a 10
203 Raindrops HVS 5a 33
204 All There VS 4c * 63
205 A Bit on the Side VS 4b * 54
206 Unplanned * VS 4b  
  Rolly Bottom Buttress
208 Rolly Poly Arête * E2 5c  
209 Rolly Bottom Buttress * VS 4c 1
210 The Sandpiper * E3 5c * 1
211 Snidewhiner * E3 6a  
212 Sidewinder * HVS 5a 3
213 Trivial Pursuit * HVD  
214 Kinder
-
S 3
215 Guardian
-
S * 7
216 Owch
-
HS 4a 14
217 Dulfer
-
S 4a 18
218 Dolce Vita
-
HVS 4c 4
219 Hades
-
HS 4b 5
220 Cyntaff
-
HVS 5a ** 17
221 Pillar Crest
-
M 3
222 Yus Yus E2 5b * 2
223 Smoove VS 4c 6
224 Prima *
-
S 14
225 Adam *
-
S 4a 8
226 Chalice *
-
S 2
227 Checkmate VS 4b 4
228 SouthWest Diedre *
-
S 4
229 Schusselkar * VS 4c 3
230 Raindrops direct finish * E1 5b * 3
231 Eve * S 4a 5
232 Faint White Hope * E3 6a * 2
233 Giant Potamus * E3 5c ** 1
234 Avoiding The Sog * HS 4b 4
235 A Day Out With Dave * HVS 5a 19
236 Yellowhammer E5 6a ** 1
237 Sixteen Hooves * E1 5b * 1
238 Barefoot Acrobat * VS 4b 1
239 Kalk *
-
S  
  Molar Wall
241 Don't Blow It * E2 6a  
242 Bochlwyd
-
HVS 5a 1
243 He Man
-
E2 5c 1
244 Muscle Man
-
VS 4c 2
245 Christa
-
HS 4b 3
246 Straight Crack VD 2
247 Recessed Wall VD 2
248 Sharp Corner D * 2
249 Blocky Corner VD 2
250 Curving Corner
-
S 6
251 Cavity Edge * D  
252 Cavity Crack
-
S * 15
253 Deception Crack * S 4
254 Two Step Wall * HS 4b  
255 Thrutch
-
HS 1
256 Hairline * S  
257 First Corner
-
S 2
258 Second Corner * S  
Climb name Grade
259 Twist * HS 4a  
260 Third Corner * S  
  White Edge
262 Herring Gull * HS  
263 Yearling * HS  
264 Real Men Laugh at Rain * VS 4c  
265 Now I'm 64 * VS 4c  
266 Ha-he Verschniedung VS 4c 2
267 White Edge VD * 19
268 Stretching Sargeant Ryan * E4 6b *  
269 White Whale E1 5b 3
270 White Elephant * E1 5b  
271 Pigeon Crack VS 4c 2
  Block Buttress
273 South West Edge
-
M 13
274 Piz
-
HS 4b 19
275 Kleine * VS 4c  
276 Thing * HVS 5a  
277 Funny Fish in a Hole E1 5c * 5
278 Cima E1 5b ** 8
279 Kaiser
-
HVS 5a ** 19
280 The Limping Limpet * E5 6a  
281 Power Trap E3 5c *** 6
282 South Pillar Rib
-
HS 4a ** 75
283 Burn the Boss * HVS 5a  
284 South Buttress
-
S 5
285 Deep Crack HS 2
286 Big Step D 2
287 Picket Line E1 5b 1
  Trident Gully and Ridge
289 Long Rib * M  
290 The Cloth Eared Brown Mullet
-
E2 5c 5
291 Ground Swell * E3 6a  
292 Sharma E3 5c 1
293 West Pillar Corner S 4a 6
294 Central Crack VD 10
295 Meander * D *  
296 Kopf Out HVS 5b 1
297 Jiggler's Chimney S 4b 1
298 Balm * VS 4c  
299 Malm
-
VS 4c 1
300 Wriggler's Chimney HS 4c ** 1
301 Trident Wall E1 5b * 4
302 Pillar Crest M 6
303 Pillar Groove VD 2
304 High and Mighty E1 5b 2
305 Weak and Flabby E3 5c 2
306 Questions HVS 4c 1
307 Answers VS 4b 1
  Catacomb Gully
309 Attack the Ghost HVS 5a 1
310 Celtic Uprising E1 5b 13
311 Relics E3 6a 2
312 Necropolis E4 5c  
313 West Corner Crack HS 4b 25
314 Ribbery S 63
315 Ribald HVS 5b 5
316 Rib and Crack HS 4a 52
317 The Jewel VS 4c * 63
318 Sharp Eyed * E5 6a *  
319 My Wife and I * E5 6a  
320 Crypt E2 5b 3
321 The Dungeon * E4 6a  
322 Left Over D 1
323 Gunpowder * E3 6a  
324 Franceschi E2 5b 6
325 Franceschi Direct Finish E2 5c 1
326 Banana Man E4 6a 2
327 Treason * E4 6b  
328 Nemesis * E3 6b  
329 Trubble * HVS 4c  
330 Gamma VS 4c 51
331 Beta HS 4b 61
332 Midel VD 34
333 Alpha D 26
334 Little Wall * D  
  Four Gullies
336 Narrow Cleft
-
M  
337 Left Pillar Edge
-
M 1
338 Ramp and Slab
-
D 7
339 Black Fissure
-
M  
340 Unnamed
-
HS 4a 2
341 West Side
-
M 3
342 West Pillar
-
M 1
343 KLAG (Rough!)
-
VS 5a 1
344 Herzog Kamin
-
S  
345 West Diedre
-
VD 3
346 Main Diedre
-
D 3
347 West Wall
-
HS 1
348 Central Rib
-
M 4
349 Eleven Year Old's Chimney (AKA Iceberg Chimney) * VS 5a  
350 Double Knee Chimney * E2 5b *  
351 Honeymoon Chimney * HVS 5a *  
352 Buhl Riss
-
VS 4c  
353 South West Corner
-
M  
354 Botzong
-
S  
355 Block Fissure
-
D  
356 Block
-
S 4c 2
357 Black Corner
-
S 4c  
358 Small Corner
-
D  
  Grey Wall
360 Grey Day Plus * E2 5b  
361 The Queer Gang * E2 5b 1
362 Direct * E3 5c  
363 Superdirect * E3 6a  
364 Ermintrude * E1 5b 2
365 Gurtrude * E2 5c  
366 PMC II * HVS 5b 10
367 Tipped to be Massive * E3 5c  
368 South East Chimney * D 7
369 Wall and Corner * VS 4b 9
370 Double Ledge'd Sword HS 4b 2
371 Lego Bricks D 2
  Obsolete Lines
373 Massive Attack VS 4b ** 2
374 Milky Doors * HVS 5a ** 1
375 Prickle Lip Crack * HVS 5b ** 2
376 Canyon Traverse * V2 5c ** 1
  Moved climbs from Cathedral Wall Area
378 Treasure
-
E3 6a 2
  Conglomerate Cliff
380 Don't Look Up
-
E2 5c 1
381 A Shadow Hanging Over Me
-
E1 5b 1
  Eyeball Wall
383 Contact 10.10
-
E4 6a 3
384 Fovea 40
-
E3 6a 4
385 Eyeline
-
E3 5c 3
386 Specky Four Eyes
-
E2 5c 1
387 Eyeball to Eyeball
-
E2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jumpingfrog