UKC

Climbs 15
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces S

Broomgrove Night Session © oliver.ghill91

Crag features

The Broomgove wall is an 'old skool' training venue on the side of one of Sheffield Hallam Universities buildings off Broomgrove Road. Having been used for years by the superstars of the 80's the wall is generally very quiet now.

The wall is vertical faced gritstone with the holds generally being small and/or sloping which makes for fantastic fingery climbing. The wall reaches a height of about 4m and has a main section which is about 15m long and a shorter section which is about 8m long. A balcony on the floor above ensures that the wall is perma-dry, with only the footholds getting wet from spray in the heaviest of rain.

Being real rock, conditions can be fickle and the holds tend to feel much smaller than usual when catching the sun during the summer. It is a much better evening/winter venue. The wall catches some street-lighting so after-dark climbing is possible.

The usual challenges are variations on the traverses but, given the number and variety of holds, the possibility for 'pull-on' and short 'up' problems is endless.

DON'T PULL ON THE WINDOW SILLS ON THE RIGHT HAND SECTION. Thanks.

Approach notes

If coming down Broomgrove Road (from Broomhill way), about 1/4 of the way down the road, and immediately after a large Hallam Uni building (Broomgrove Hall) there is a small driveway on the left with a yellow sign. The wall is on the building on the left at the end of this drive (50m down).

The hall above the wall is used by the university and the windows are often open so if you are using the wall during the day, keep the noise down.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Watch out for the left hand window "sill", is quite loose and could easily come off.
antoniusblock - 30/May/10
Great 'Crag', cheaper than the climbing wall and better for you!
A ShawT Rudeboy - 30/Mar/10
Not a crag?! World class training venue in t'old days. Should be in for amusement value FFS.
Ian Jones - 12/Mar/10
Not a crag, should be in the climbing walls section.
Fiend - 09/Dec/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall - Traverses
2 The Traverse 7a+ *** 53
3 The Low Traverse 7b 28
4 Traverse Reverse 7b+ 9
5 Turbo Traverse 7b+ 11
Climb name Grade
  Warm Up Wall - Traverses
7 Warm Up Traverse 6a+ 83
8 Warm Up Traverse Reverse 6b+ 74
9 Warm Up Wall Eliminate 7a 29
10 Warm up wall eliminate reverse *
-
7a+ 1
Climb name Grade
  Problems - Main Wall Left
12 Warm Up 1 M 4
13 Johnny's Rockover (easy way) f5 5a ** 13
14 Warm Up 2 M 3
15 Johnny's Rockover (hard way) f5+ 7
16 Thumbs M 2
17 Crimp M 2
18 Slopey Sitter M 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Aly