Climbs 60
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 238m a.s.l
Faces S

John Henry Quarry - In-di-go (above climbers head) © cmgcmg

Crag features

Worth a visit if linked with Hobson Moor quarry. Most routes are in the low to middle grades up to 25m high. Slightly vegetated/damp in places, choose a dry spell. Best routes are Crikey Crack (VS 4c),Desperate Straights (E2 5b) and Rated Steep (E2 5c).

Access Advice

No access issues reported.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrel occasionally nest near Ferny-lee Crack - if you see the birds, please avoid routes in this area between 1st March - 30th June.

Watch out for the birds nest 3/4 of the way up. Nothing in it at the min but could cause you problems in summer great climbing and very quiet
Frank1tank - 01/Apr/12
the 'suspicious flake' on the route "fragile" is now gone, although there is still some very sandy rock.
Dan Lane - 01/Apr/10
Bypass is no longer going to cut through the quarry!!!
cmgcmg - 18/May/09
Investigated this place and followed Chris Ovens directions. It is far more extensive than his descriptions suggest. The location of this venue is shown as Holybank Quarry on the os map. I'm sure this is the same venue as John Henry Quarry aka Hollybank Quarry on the BMC rad.
popebenedictus - 19/Dec/07
Description seems to fit Holybank Quarry (SK026976)
popebenedictus - 04/Oct/07
Due to be cut in half by a bypass that will be built in 2008-2010 unless itis stopped!
cmgcmg - 31/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pot S 7
2 Gallon Chimney VD 9
3 Pot Full S 6
4 Two 'alves
-
VS 4c 3
5 Gumboot Groove
-
HVD 5
6 Goldfinger
-
HVS 5a 5
7 Bloodfinger
-
HVS 5b  
8 Fragile
-
E1 5a  
9 In-di-go HVD 5a 6
10 The Chopping Block
-
E2 5c *  
11 Crikey Crack VS 4c * 40
12 Robbo's Crack HVS 5a 14
13 Platform Crack VS 4c 5
14 Ceiling Crack
-
HVS 5a  
15 Short Crack
-
VS 4c 3
16 Tick-tock Crack
-
S 6
17 Tick-tock Groove HVD 2
18 Thin Jim's Dilemma E1 5b *** 22
19 47 Not Out
-
E1 5b * 3
20 Lizard Arete
-
HS 1
21 Twin Grooves
-
HS 1
22 Desperate Straights
-
E2 5b *** 3
23 Rated Steep
-
E2 5c ** 2
24 Jim's Gym'll fix it E5 6b **  
25 Ferny-lee Crack E1 5b * 11
26 Cragster
-
E3 5c  
27 Rising Damp
-
E2 5c  
28 O-mi-gosh Ridge S 4b * 9
29 Balcony Ridge VS 4c 2
30 Xanadu Crack
-
HVS 5b  
31 Kestrel Corner VS 4c 3
32 Aurora Borealis E2 5b ** 1
33 Gyro
-
HVS 5b * 3
34 Ear to Ear
-
HVS 5a 2
35 Vivisector's Corner HS 2
36 Fernacious
-
E1 5b 4
37 Fern Route (A) VS 4c 3
38 Fern Route (B)
-
VS 4c 2
39 Bioscope Slab VS 4c 7
40 Bioscope Edge
-
E1 5a * 1
41 Auto-da-fe
-
E1 5a  
42 Yellow Gash S * 14
43 Yellow Hole Wall
-
E1 5b 2
44 Corner Crack
-
VS 5a 2
45 Red Retch Crack
-
VS 4c  
46 Red Biddy
-
HS  
47 Old Biddy
-
HS  
48 Pinky
-
HVD  
49 Never Mind The Bollocks, Here's The John Henry Quarry Girdle Tra
-
E3 5b,5c,  
50 lets twist again HVS 5c  

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