Climbs 28
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces S

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Swan Song © KeithAlexander

Crag features

This excellent wee crag lies about 800 metres west of Bennybeg, about 2 miles from Crief just off the A822. It is part of the same dolerite fault that forms Bennybeg but here the rock has weathered to form better, more continous lines with more natural protection. Pleasant, interesting climbing in a beautifully unspoilt woodland setting overlooking Drummond Pond makes this an excellent low to middle grade crag.

Approach notes

Park for Bennybeg. Follow a track on the opposite side of the road (large solid gate) along the edge of a felled forestry area a short way to its end and then through the woods to reach the east end of the crag.

Access Advice

The game keeper/land owner for this area is requesting that permission is sought before climbing at this spot. It is unclear who to contact.

Ravens often nest half way along Traverse of the Crocs. Use common sense. Latest info can be found here:  https://www.mountaineering.scot/campaigns/safeguarding-access/birds-and-nesting

The pond is a nesting site for swans in winter/spring. Please be wary and avoid disturbing them.

Easier routes on the west wall have been cleaned March17 and as such have improved significantly, and worth an extra star now.
RitchieArmstrong - 28/Mar/17
plenty lines. needs alot more traffic. recon boy scouts or likewise are using it as they have camp set up on way from main road. plenty room for lots of new routes. maybe even some sport ones. needs a good clean.
Hawky - 02/Jul/15
Don't know who the last person is who commented, but I'd suggest you ignore him. The crag is clean & solid with good lines. There are 3 new routes on the east wall. The bouldering wall in the middle has 6 highball crimpy problems on immaculate rock. For a topo see Scottish Mountaineer magazine August 2013 digital version. Join the MCofS to get it. I have climbed there all summer and experienced very few ticks.
Rockhobbit - 05/Oct/13
This crag is exactly like Benny Beg: completely rubbish and pointless. There are no lines (because there are holds everywhere, though none of the pleasing) and even the poor gear doesn't enliven things. While climbing you feel irritated with a sense that it's all eliminate, and when you get to the top all you feel is blank. I think this is probably the worst place I have ever climbed. You have been warned.
Wicamoi - 19/Aug/12
Had a look at this crag today. There are some good lines here but the place does need a clean. I was surprised that there is only 14 recognised climbs here. Plenty of scope for new routes at all grades.
CyberTaff - 02/Jan/12
Ticks were, as stated, atrocious. The winter has been very hard on this crag and needs a good clean before its played on. Theres a couple large birds nests on this crag, so best to seek permission before anything goes awry.
Jack Luke - 20/Apr/11
Best take precautions in the summer months as this crag is infested with ticks!
T Break - 08/Jul/09
'Infested with ticks' is an understatement! I removed more than 60, of varying sizes, after the walk in alone. Left hand wall looks plesant and worth a visit, possible outside of summer!
magpie - 05/Jul/09
Precautions should be taken in the summer months as this crag is infested with ticks!
T Break - 28/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Wall
2 Vixen VS 4c 20
3 Vixen (Direct Start) VS 5a 6
4 Drummond Terrace S 4a 26
5 Earthly Delights HS 4c 47
6 Idle Vice E1 5b 35
7 Hung Like a Blue Bell E2 5b 18
8 Pond Life VS 4b 45
9 Pond Life (Direct Finish) VS 9
10 Scum on the Edge E1 5b 13
11 Follow the Wild Geese Home VS 4c 53
Climb name Grade
12 Swan Song E1 5a 14
13 The Atrocious Tick HVS 5b 2
  Bouldering Wall
15 Traverse of the Crocs HVS 4c * 6
16 Ruffled Feathers V1 5a * 6
17 Moulting Syndrome V3 5c ** 5
18 Plucked Plumage V5 6a/b 8
19 Plucky V4 6a/6b 3
20 Alula V3 5c 5
21 Unnamed V1 5b 4
22 Unnamed VB 4a 4
Climb name Grade
  East Wall
24 Pecker Up VS 4c 10
25 Crocs in the Loch VS 4c 42
26 Covered in Bees E1 5b * 10
27 Painfull Memories VS 4b 18
28 Chisel Pigs VS 5a 4
29 The Roof VS 5a 7
30 The Crocodile Munter VD * 2
  Girdles
32 Low Girdle V3 6a * 1

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