Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 197m a.s.l
Faces S

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Little John is attracted. © andybirtwistle

Crag features

As with all of the quarries round here access is officially not allowed.

Generally good rock, routes up to 28m long, a secluded sunny venue with short access. Some routes can be dusty after rain, but generally does not detract from the climbing.

Approach notes

Leave Wirksworth on the Cromford Road. Turn left into Wirksworth Industrial Centre (Ravenstor Road), and at a mini-roundabout turn right - to a gate. The entrance is just in front, amongst some trees. The quarry is part of the National Stone Centre.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Out of print:
We were asked to leave today - something to do with the quarry being part of an SSSI. Never happened before but I suppose that there is a first time for everything!
roger whetton - 24/Oct/18
Got kicked out of the quarry today due to "dynamite being used in the creation of the quarry." I couldn't see any dynamite lying around
Choss king - 13/Aug/18
Got kicked off due to "dynamite being used in the making of the quarry." I couldn't see any dynamite lying around.
Choss king - 13/Aug/18
Shouldn't it be Colehill Quarry?
andybirtwistle - 18/Aug/15
Reminiscent of a sea cliff? Maybe needs reassessing as its cleaned up a lot recently.Good southern alternative to Horseshoe without the polish:)
andybirtwistle - 18/Aug/15
The quarry is in really good shape and access really easy. No hassle from anybody and even had a few walkers stop and watch a couple of climbs.
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
some rock fall including a bolt has happened on destitution on threedonia 6b+
goodboy - 26/Mar/12
P.S. Routes are well bolted here. Bolts next to cruxes and no random run-outs. Which is nice.
Fiend - 08/May/09
Climbed here May 2009, knowing full well access is banned, but also heeding the comment below and my partner's suggestion that the access situation wasn't that bad. As below, no warning signs and no interference despite a few teams at the quarry. Also heard that negotiations have fizzled out and only one person at the Stone Centre had any serious objections to climbing. Anyway, it's an okay evening venue, not one of the better lime sport quarries, but still some fun routes and a good workout.
Fiend - 07/May/09
Climbed here July 2008 , not knowing access is banned. There are no signs up anywhere and you can just walk in. It was a damp weekday evening and we were pretty discrete. It looks like a lot of the bolts have recently been replaced and there has been some removal of loose rock. A good local venue and worth a visit if you are in the area.
Pilch - 18/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Posers Walls
2 Posing Pouch 6a+ 72
3 Voyeur 6a 92
4 Posing till the End 5c * 271
5 I am a Poser and I Don't Care 5c * 276
6 Garth was 'ere 6a * 251
7 In Vision 6a+ * 171
8 Out-a-Sight, Out-a-Mind 6a+ * 105
9 Pose On 6a 16
10 Above 30 7b * 27
11 Just This Side of 30 7a * 91
12 Taste the Grit 6b+ * 109
13 Keep Sake 6a 1
Climb name Grade
  Blue Sky Walls
15 What a Pity 6b 79
16 Slate Gray Lining 5c 105
17 Swooping on Nigel's Ruby 5c 192
18 The Desperation of Freedonia 6a 200
19 The Reincarnation Of Catatonia 6a 130
20 The Execution of Dysphasia 6a 125
21 A Revolution for Dyspepsia 6b 82
22 The Destitution of Threedonia 6b+ 48
23 The Evolution of Micradia 5c * 166
24 The One in Ten 6a+ * 62
  Hamster Wall
26 The Booze Cruise 6b+ * 91
27 Cruisin' for a Boozin 6b+ * 67
Climb name Grade
28 The Crinoid Cruise Direct E3 5c * 7
29 See Me Coming (LH Start) 6c+ 20
30 See Me Coming 6c * 96
31 The Scarlet Woman 6b * 165
32 Crocodile Tears 6c 47
33 Alligator Crawl (aka Alligator Smiles) 6a+ * 143
34 Tolley put the Kettle On 6c 28
35 The Convert 7a 49
36 Forbidden Fruit 6b+ * 144
37 Another Roadside Attraction 6a * 375
38 Old King Colehill 6c * 115
39 It's a Hamster Mr. Fawlty 6a+ * 175
40 Fail Safe 6b 4

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