Climbs 32
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 950m a.s.l
Faces E

Clouds flowing into the abyss © Alasdair Fulton

Crag features

Coire nan Clach a beautiful secluded corrie, scattered with boulders high above the Quoich Glen. It is situated just below the North Top of Beinn a'Bhuird with a rock promontary dividing the corrie into two lobes. To the left of the corrie, seperating it from Coire an Dubh Lochan is the Dividing Buttress, a huge triangular mass of rock.

The left skyline of this buttress is Slab and Arete and the right skyline is Sentinel Route. The right-facing corner in the mass of slabs inbetween is the Jewell-Kammer route with Streakers route being the groove some 10m right.

In Coire nan Clach itself, the routes of Bag of Crystals and The Recluse lie immediately right of Dividing Buttress. The series of buttresses and gullies to the right of this are the ones described in the guide, with Crocus Gully topping out at about 093 997 (I think).

Promontory Gully lies on the nose that splits the corrie with other routes lying nearby.

Black Crag is a SW-facing outcrop below the plateau rim 400m ESE from the North Top containing several rock routes.

Approach notes

Either from Linn of Quoich or up Glen Slugain from Invercauld. Both are bike-able, the former as far as the shielings under Carn Allt na Beinne (080948) and the latter as far as underneath Coire na Ciche (snow-dependent) if you are prepared to carry your bike past the steepness near the old Slugain lodge.

Parking fee of £2.50 if you use the Invercauld carpark at Keiloch.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dividing Buttress
2 Slab And Arete
-
D 4
3 Slab And Arete
-
II 3
4 Slab And Arete (LH Variation)
-
M 1
5 The Fringe
-
VS 1
6 Jewell-Kammer Route
-
VS  
7 Seventh Veil
-
E6 6b  
8 Streaker's Root
-
HVS 5a 4
9 Parkie's Route
-
HVS 5a  
10 Dividend Route
-
IV 6 2
11 Sentinel Route
-
III  
12 Sentinel Gully
-
III  
13 Big Bertha
-
VII 7  
  Dividing Buttress - Gable Wall
15 Sawfly
-
VS 4b  
16 Weevil's Way
-
VS 4b  
17 The Gnat
-
VS 4c  
18 The Ramp
-
II  
  Coire nan Clach
20 Bag Of Crystals
-
E2 5b  
21 The Recluse
-
E2 5b  
22 Crocus Gully I 4
23 Bluebell Buttress
-
II  
24 Narcissus
-
III  
25 Nipped In The Bud
-
V 6  
26 Snowdrop
-
III  
27 Promontory Gully
-
II  
28 Ribeye
-
II 1
  Black Crag
30 Bete Noir
-
E3 6a 2
31 Chocolate Girl
-
E1 5b 2
32 Twister
-
E1 5b  
33 Twisted Sister
-
E2 5c 2
34 Abdel Wahab
-
HVS 5a  
35 Hombre
-
E2 5c 2
36 Unknown Gullly * I 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Aly