Climbs 14
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces N

First Ice fall on Kander Surprise © Big Al

Crag features

A good north facing corrie on the flanks of Carn an Tuirc, just off the Glenshee road, that provides a impressive-looking range of easier ice routes after cold weather.

In the base of the Corrie is a dark lochan, surrounded by steep but generally broken ground.

As one enters the corrie, the obvious large buttress on the left hand (NNW-facing) side is The Bastion, with steep walls on its left hand side and a turfy pinnacle on the right, rising to an apex at around NO 190805. The icefall down the left hand walls is Bastion Direct, with The Bastion taking turfy ground up the flank just right.

The two main easy gullies mentioned in the guide are Y-Gully and, the better of the two, Twisting Gully. Twisting Gully rises up behind the Bastion on the right hand side, being only visible once round the lochan on the walk in (visible on the 1:25000 at NO 188 805).

Y-Gully is the easy-angled gully in the far corner of the corrie, rising up to the lowest point in the col between Carn an Tuirc and Cairn of Claise (NO 186 805). Y-Gully has a small rongon near the top, splitting the gully into two forks and is the easiest mean of descent into the corrie if approaching over Carn an Tuirc.

The obvious icefalls of Pick Breaker and Kanderhar are situated just right of Y-Gully on the back wall of the corrie.

The route Snip Snip forms on the waterfalls marked about 900m north (left) of The Bastion at NO 197 812 on the 1:25000 map.

Described in detail in SMC Cairngorms Guide 2007 (p425) but some of the descriptions may take a bit or working out - I couldn't find some routes.

Approach notes

The easiest approach is probably from Loch Callater, off the A93 just south of Braemar. From Callater Lodge (you can bike up to here easily) follow the path beyond the loch until the corrie appears on the right hand side.

It is also possible to approach from further south on the A93, skirting Carn an Tuirc on its north side.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Snip Snip III 1
  Bastion Area
3 Bastion Direct V 4  
4 The Bastion
II 1
5 Long Line III 2
6 Twisting Gully I 1
Climb name Grade
7 Jack III 3 1
8 And Victor IV 4 ** 1
  Y-Gully Area / Back Wall
10 Still Game IV 4 * 1
11 Kander Surprise III *  
12 Y-Gully I 10
Climb name Grade
13 Tuircish Delight III 3
14 Pick Breaker IV 4 2
15 Kanderhar III 4
16 Kandy Bar V 5 ** 1

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