Climbs 12
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 25m a.s.l
Faces NW

wish i'd chosen the easier route.... © halfwaythere

Crag features

An under-rated, unpolished adventurous buttress well worth the steep approach. It has seen vast improvement lately with cleaning and the placement of bolted lower offs. The new guide (forever "nearly out") should cover this definitively however, various topos have been kindly contributed from various people offering sufficient guideance for now. Jose Dansack is one of the best HVS's in the gorge according to some. Naturally the lack of traffic on the routes demands respect for potential loose rock but it is generally sound along with good protection . 

Approach notes

Access is possible from upper left or bottom right of the butress (climbers orientation).
Upper access: Take the path to the right of the suspension bridge (facing toward toll gate at top of crag)then over the fence (permission unsure) and down slope to desired climb.
Lower access: As for Supension Bridge butress and Amphitheatre (N side of road cover) follow wide gully up, on right hand side for 10metres to reach the start of the climbs.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Was really impressed with the quality of the routes and the rock up there. Everyone who was involved in the clean up has done a great job. The routes deserve more stars than they currently have; a few extra might encourage more traffic up there, which is needed if it isn't going to turn back to jungle. Also, if North Buttress is going to have its own logbook, then then duplicated climbs need removing from the SBB logbook.
Alex Winter - 10/Jul/15
My new favourite place to climb at avon. Psyched to try and get all these ticked off. Taken over moderation today and hoping to climb, confirm and update each route.
Stanners - 19/Mar/15
I noticed a lot of workmen clearing the steep slope above this buttress this week - ripping out bushes, trees etc. Not sure why, or what the plan is. I reckon finding anchors at the top of routes could be a major concern at this crag...
Phil Murray - 19/Jul/12
Scrambled up there today to have a look. If I had the time, I would definitely restore/add routes here. Potential for an ace traverse right around to SSB. Calling out to people like Mark D. Saw two wires with quick draws at the top of one of the routes. Can only assume they were used as an escape lower off. Exciting to see a part of Avon I never new about!
Stanners - 27/Nov/11
See here for inspiration!
heallan - 27/Jan/09
Vegitation has been there for well over 13 years! Went yesterday -looks as though there is a lot of cleaning to be done before it becomes worth while...
beardy mike - 26/Jan/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Carlos J G HVS 5a 11
2 Builders of the New Age E3 5c * 7
3 The Rejected Capstone E5 6b/c 2
4 Strappados E1 5a * 37
5 Hideaway E2 5b * 14
6 Jose Dansack HVS 4c ** 53
7 Drypass HVS 5a * 4
8 The Drain VS 4b * 41
9 Green-un S 4a 1
10 Purple Haze HVS 4c 1
11 Don Quixote HVS 4c  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stanners