UKC

Climbs 76
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 76m a.s.l
Faces S

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searching routes on Agassiz Rock, Climber: Patrick Rollings © Vilmos M

Crag features

Agassiz Rock lies besides Blackford Quarry in Edinburgh and provides accessible moderate-hard bouldering in the city. The outcrop is south facing allowing climbing all year around.

A definitive guide now exists and is available at - https://gum.co/OXUHc

The rock is steep in some parts, staying dry in the rain. The overhangs and crack are affected by seepage after heavy rain though.

The left side of the crag gives fairly stable climbing, however the right can be loose in places (expect for the black slab at the extreme right).

The climbing is mostly eliminate style problems and so there great scope for setting your own.

Some videos are available here.


 

Approach notes

No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 16/Sep/2023

Restricted Access

WARNING- (see comments) The semi-detached boss at the left of the crag is moving away and will eventually fall apart. Please DO NOT climb or hang on it - if you pull it off, it could kill you.

No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.

Photo added of location of the fallen boss from the far left hand side, which is now a fall hazard. Exceptionally heavy, so will take a few strong people to shift to a safer distance away from the crag
El_Bro - 20/Jun/23
The large boss has now come away. It is lying at the bottom of the crag and therefore is now is a risk for climbers falling on it. Please consider covering it with a pad.
El_Bro - 20/Jun/23
Still chalk on it as of yesterday, plus kids playing on it when I was there (despite warnings!). Maybe needs marked?
Mevs - 15/Jun/23
I agree with Dr Toph - the crack is widening. And there was still chalk on it today 23 May 2023. Someone is going to get seriously injured or killed!
Maragmhòraix - 23/May/23
Futher to previous warning about the semi-detached boss at the left of the boulder. Its visibly less attached than when I last visited. Please dont use it as a hold (yes there is still chalk on it) - if you pull it off it could kill you.
Dr Toph - 01/Aug/22
The large ledge at the left end of the face is also on its way off. The crack is measurably wider than on my last visit (and I have been measuring it). Best avoided until it comes down naturally.
Dr Toph - 28/Jul/21
Correction to previous comment - its not the flake of Procrastination but the one further right (start of Passing the Prow)
Dr Toph - 13/Nov/20
The big shield/flake of Procrastination is flexing and shedding gravel from behind when weighted. The whole thing might be on the verge of detatching and I wouldn't want to be holding it when it happens!
Dr Toph - 30/Oct/20
:D Yes, my bad, I meant left.
Maragmhòraix - 29/Jun/17
By right hand side do you mean left? The easy traverse seems harder than it used to
davefj - 19/Jun/17
Update June 2017 - a big part of the mantelshelf on the right side of the crag has fallen down. It affects the moves of some of the climbs, including the high traverse, but I’ve climbed them again and it doesn’t seem to affect the grades. So I’ve left them.
Maragmhòraix - 05/Jun/17
Thanks - I was away for the last two months. I'll check it next week. It's not the first time though, the same thing happened last year. I cleaned a good part of it with a yard brush but if it becomes a habit, the place will become unclimbable. Plus the heat might damage the rock...
Maragmhòraix - 15/Aug/15
Brought a rope and some brushes along and cleaned as best I could with others today, middle line is just about climbable but the right side needs some solid rain to clean it off.
Shed - 22/Jul/15
Steepest section in the middle covered in a thick layer of soot from a fire as of 21st July. Pretty much unclimbable
Heggie - 22/Jul/15
Okay. Have taken over the moderation. Will try to clean it up. Input welcome.
Maragmhòraix - 26/Sep/14
Agree with Pierre, spent more time trying to work out where the problems were than climbing. This page needs to be scrapped and started again!
daftendirekt - 13/Sep/14
Many original holds are gone. The original versions of these problems simply don't exist anymore. Serious data update needed.
Maragmhòraix - 02/Jul/14
Small crag but i found it an excellent walk in. While there it's worth taking in the stunning views from the top of blackford hill near the observatory. Very close to a main track running through the area, so expect interested walkers and their dogs coming for a sniff. (not the walkers the dogs) More of a training area with potential for setting your own problems, what with the rock being quite steep and relatively dry in wet conditions. Some crumbly areas, although it consists mostly of solid sections. Worth a visit for its esoteric value.
gambit247 - 07/Jan/07
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