II, 195m. A firmly traditional route with some old-school climbing. Start at some broken ledges, below and left of a 10m corner.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the ledges and the corner and step right to a belay on the right.
2) 4c, 35m. Continue up broken slabby ground to a belay beneath a groove.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the groove, which can be pretty slippery, and continue up to a belay 5m below a small roof.
4) 5c, 35m. Carry on up the groove to the roof, go around it on the left and then come back right to belay in a notch below some impressive slabs.
5) 4b, 50m. Go straight up the slabs, then right to a belay just below the ridge crest.
6) 4b, 35m. Step left and climb the excellent flake-filled chimney to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
UIAA V with one move of V+/VI-, (the Piola guide has the crux pitch as French 5). Lower pitches are slow to dry.
J Couzy and M Proust 27.7.1952 27/Jul/1952.
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