III, 400m, 6 - 8 hours. The modern classic of the Gendarme Rouge put up by Piola and pals in the 1980s. It has some great crack pitches and cruxes on slabs in classic Piola fashion!1) 4c. Follow the first two pitches of the Contamine-Vaucher to the large ledge.2) 5c. From the belay in the centre of the ledge, climb the slab, passing a bolt, to a crack system (don't follow the line of bolts).3) 5c. Climb the slab on the right before joining the Contamine ramp and following it to a belay on the right.4) 6a. Climb right then a slab on the left (bolt) joining a crack system leading to a belay on the left.5) 6a+. Follow the crack on the right passing a roof on the left and then climb the bolted slab to a belay on a ledge. 6) 6b+. Follow the cracks before moving out right and passing an overlap (bolt) to a corner.7) 6a. Follow the corner and chimney. 8) 6a. Traverse sightly left from the belay and climb corners. 9) 6a. Continue following the corners and cracks.10) 6b+/A0 (7b). Go up the corner right of the belay before pulling out right to a delicate slab with two bolts (most people pull on these). Above, pull through the small roof on the right and follow cracks above.11) 6a+. Move right and follow the corner and wide crack, exiting on the right. © Rockfax
M. Armand, M. Piola, P. Starobinski, P. Strappazon Sep/1986.
Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.
Nick and Tom's awesome Ticklist
Please Login to view more details on the logged
Grade: ED1 6c+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)
Feedback comments are intended to give extra information about a route which may be helpful to other climbers.
This can include 'βeta' which is crucial information about the route which may be how to do a move, or tips about
holds or gear.
If you don't want to see βeta then select 'Always Hide βeta' and the comments will be hidden for you. You can
set this in your User Options.
If you read a comment that you think contains crucial βeta then you can mark it as 'βeta' using the flag on
If you see something incorrectly marked as βeta, you can hide it by clicking on the word 'βeta:' on the
You can also copy any of your previous personal ascent comments to Public Feedback if they contain useful general
They can be edited before posting to remove
personal content if required.