UKC

Climbs 89
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 63m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Lucas (6a) on Ambolo West © Chris Craggs

Crag features

4 developed crags perched above a small cove by the sea, as well as several deep water soloing spots dotted around the coast. It's possible to find sun or shade depending on the time of year, as each crag faces a slightly  different direction.

Development is currently going on (Winter 2017/18) to replace the rusty bolts, with many routes already re-equpped with new bolts and lower offs.

The climbing is good, on superb Limestone and with glorious views over the sea towards Cap d'Or and Granadella (good beach for swimming).

There is a pdf guide to the crag and an information board by the parking with details of the routes.

Deep water soloing is based on the information in this topo from Rich Mayfield at The Orange House http://theorangehouse.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/DWS-Ambolo.pdf and this local topo https://www.scribd.com/doc/204918256/Guia-psicobloc-en-Comunidad-Valenciana-Cabo-de-La-Nao#

 

Approach notes

Follow signs for Cap de la Nau. Immediately before this turn onto the Carrer Torre Ambolo, drive to the end of this lane and park considerately.

From the parking, follow a signposted trail on foot leading down towards the sea, the first crags will come into view within a couple of minutes. 
 

for the slab and other routes on the left side of the point (as you arrive) follow the feint path,behind the sign, along the house wall to the cliff edge wall, in Jan 23 there was a rope, I was told, "follow this and there are holds and ropes that get you to the bottom of the crag" we didn't try it, but the people who told us had been climbing there, sun until 2pm they said. The access goes across the back of a garden, be nice!

Access Advice

Access for Canalobres, Barumboyes and Nefertit passes very close to a garden. Behave accordingly.

A proper hidden gem. If you're climbing 7a it's a must visit. Samsara is one of the best lines in the Blanca on incredible flowstone. Park roadside by the lookout and follow via ferrata rungs and a nice stepped path all the way down. Some routes are still cleaning up a little bit.
Rob Kelly - 13/Feb/20
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