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Climbs 188
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
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The golden, golden tower © Laurence

Crag features

Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]

Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.

 

Safety note: the pillar on Grey Buttress is loose. The rock moves when pulled on at the start of the boulder. [CJ 06/20].

Access Advice

Climbers using the Left Wall Area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 June to 20 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest in Dirty Corner (left of Golden Tower) - if the birds are present, this and nearby routes (The Eight-legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat Itself to The Italian Job) should be avoided unitl the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Western Grit (2003)
Significant rockfall has taken out Changing on Coal Measures. https://twitter.com/Adventure21Ltd/status/1045750610598023169?s=19
Mark Collins - 31/Aug/19
I've added the routes from Robin's Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. Please let me know if I've made any mistakes.
Mark Collins - 21/Oct/14
Cleaned the ferns out of Klondyke: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=245795
Mark Collins - 16/Sep/14
The loose block on Many Happy Returns mentioned in the comment below was removed last year:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=227187
Mark Collins - 21/Aug/14
Probably best to avoid the Coal Measure Crag on a windy day, if you don't want to get hit by falling shale, very alpine.
Mark Collins - 17/Aug/14
Iíve finished cleaning the part of Metamorphosis Wall between Coconino and Transformation. The whole wall is now a bit dusty, so you might want to give it a brush before climbing, as ever at Anglezarke. Also, please be careful as these routes have not been climbed in years and may still contain loose rock, especially in the dry stone wall at the top. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=244249
Mark Collins - 16/Aug/14
Was up there today and noticed some drilling has taken place above WALT'S WALL on the rock between the stakes. Totally no need, can only assume bolt practice for somone or a centre going over the top.
innesmac - 03/Mar/12
Warning; the large vertical block halfway up 'Many Happy Returns' is dangerously loose.If you place wires behind it and then fall off you'll have a permanent headache.
Albion - 19/Jul/10
The routes are getting very sandy and dirty at the moment, groups need to stop top roping as it would seem to be the main cause. Would also be good to see more interest as its an amazing place to climb!
joe.91 - 30/Jun/10
DONT TOP ROPE!! most routes are dirty enough as it is, but top roping/abseiling makes it much worse.
liam - 23/Apr/09
Cross the road from the car park to so many good routes. Lots of 'cracks' providing anything from a finger-hold to full body jam! Anchors in abundance. Enjoy
noosarabbit - 15/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

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