Loading Notifications...

Covid-19

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

Climbs 129
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Surface Tension, Auchinstarry © Fraser

Crag features

Update 9th June 2020 - bat family nesting in the crack on white slab. Please do not climb white slab. 
If climbing red lead, so not climb via white slab face. Please take the original route which trends directly up left to the layback flake from the belay spike. Don't go directly up white slab with a view to moving left higher up. Thanks. Chris (Milesy)


Has great character with good protection. Dubious safety work by the council has obliterated some old classic lines but there is plenty left. Some of the rock is sublime.

Safety report for the quarry
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2wpx2KkzTYYZUhhc0ZSSzc2aDQ/view

(Note new link to document added)

Approach notes

Regular train service to Croy which is 1.4 miles, 25 mins walk away. 
Some routes start straight from the car park.
For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

Restricted Access

Update 9th June 2020 - bat family nesting in the crack on white slab. Please do not climb white slab. 
If climbing red lead, so not climb via white slab face. Please take the original route which trends directly up left to the layback flake from the belay spike. Don't go directly up white slab with a view to moving left higher up. Thanks. Chris (Milesy)

Regular train service to Croy which is only 1 Kilometre away to the south.
Some routes start straight from the car park.

For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

 

Guidebooks

Rope found here on 24 June, please call chris on 07392 094 787 if lost.
chriskane - 25/Jun/18
LOST ROPE FOUND!!! 24 June, please call chris on 07392 094 787
chriskane - 24/Jun/18
just to point out it's 1.5 miles / 2.4 kms not 1 km from Croy train station https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/55.9696505,-4.0510201/55.9554232,-4.0361321/@55.9639324,-4.0505144,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m5!3m4!1m2!1d-4.0360615!2d55.956156!3s0x4888689e7c98fce7:0x91aacc1003ac52dc!1m0!3e2
malcolm.harris - 02/Jun/17
Currently a family of bats in a crack on the white slab (part way up red lead)
James90 - 23/Jun/15
Please can people stop top-roping Nijinski (and adjacent routes). It's an amazing line and a great trad testpiece that really deserves better than avoiding it's true lead quality. FWIW with enough RPs and Offsets and the skill to place them, it's closer to E4. Something to save for the future if you can't lead it.
Fiend - 17/Dec/13
Council work has affected the tops of some of the car park area routes, as shown here https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5617456/IMG_0004.JPG This seems to be leading to more dirt and water coming down these lines.
Roberttaylor - 13/Feb/13
'Starry is looking a little woebegone. Other than Red Lead/Mascarade buttress and Trundle slab there's an awful lot of grass and neglect. Couple of public spirited locals needed for gardening.
IanMcC - 14/Jun/12
2 Youtube clips of the view of Auchinstarry Quarry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d158fVJl7Ms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCjxGOKZemk
Denpov - 14/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station the bus nunber 349 also passes the quarry. 50 pence fare August 2010. The buses take about 2 minutes.
Denpov - 10/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station a bus service from 7.43am (no 43) goes past the quarry and is every 15mins during the day, but there may not be an evening service. Get the bus at the bus stop outside the train station Cost 1.25 August 2010. :o)
Denpov - 04/Aug/10
Currently updating the crag and getting all the routes in order. if you have a description of the last 50 or so routes especially it'd be helpful!
JamieSparkes - 27/Nov/08
Auchinstarry is a good venue for middle grade climbers in the Glasgow area. It is a disused dolerite quarry with a wee loch which folk fish and kayak on, with newly- landscaped and imroved grounds. It has excellent routes mainly in the VS- E2 range. Some of the routes have great atmosphere, such as Red Lead (VS 5a) which ascends an improbable looking wall and crack from a semi hanging belay right above the water. Watch out for local savages hurling rubbish and rocks off the top however.
I am the God of Stratheyre - 11/Apr/05
A 15 minute walk from a train station served by fairly regular trains makes this an ideal crag for someone in glasgow without a car. Personally never had any problems with the locals myself but have heard stories.
alrobertson - 18/Apr/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Milesy