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Climbs 143
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

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Surface Tension, Auchinstarry © Fraser

Crag features

This extensive Dolerite disused quarry has great character with good protection.

A stalwart of central belt trad climbing it has a wide variety of routes from easy accessible routes that can be top-roped by beginners through to much harder and more adventurous routes along the back wall, some directly above the water. 

Regular rockfalls, not to mention dubious interventions by the local council to 'make things safer' mean the routes continue to evolve, with some new routes just added in 2020.

There are two fairly distinct parts to the quarry - the car park/promintory area and then the main rear wall stretching out round the back of the small murky loch.

The car park/promintory area is easily accessed and offers a range of easy to more strenuous routes, some of which can be top-roped from suitable anchors on a tree, fenceposts, plus some in-situ bolted anchors. There are, however several notorious hard routes in this section.

The rear wall of the quarry is rather more adventurous and while there are belay stakes or natural protection for some routes, many others will require either abseiling in or some sketchy scrambling to reach them.

 

Approach notes

Regular train service to Croy which is 1.4 miles, 25 mins walk away. 
Some routes start straight from the car park.
For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

Restricted Access

Update 9th June 2020 - There is a bat family nesting in the crack on white slab. Please do not climb white slab. 
If climbing red lead, do so without climbing via white slab face. Please take the original route which trends directly up left to the layback flake from the belay spike. Don't go directly up white slab with a view to moving left higher up. Thanks. Chris (Milesy)

 

 

 

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