Altitude 100m a.s.l
Surface Tension, Auchinstarry © Fraser
This extensive Dolerite disused quarry has great character with good protection.
A stalwart of central belt trad climbing it has a wide variety of routes from easy accessible routes that can be top-roped by beginners through to much harder and more adventurous routes along the back wall, some directly above the water.
Regular rockfalls, not to mention dubious interventions by the local council to 'make things safer' mean the routes continue to evolve, with some new routes just added in 2020.
There are two fairly distinct parts to the quarry - the car park/promintory area and then the main rear wall stretching out round the back of the small murky loch.
The car park/promintory area is easily accessed and offers a range of easy to more strenuous routes, some of which can be top-roped from suitable anchors on a tree, fenceposts, plus some in-situ bolted anchors. There are, however several notorious hard routes in this section.
The rear wall of the quarry is rather more adventurous and while there are belay stakes or natural protection for some routes, many others will require either abseiling in or some sketchy scrambling to reach them.
Regular train service to Croy which is 1.4 miles, 25 mins walk away.
Some routes start straight from the car park.
For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.
As we come out of lockdown the park around the quarry is becoming quite busy with lots of other folk parking, walking, fishing etc.
It is also attracting some locals who apparently think it's hilarious to chuck rocks down on climbers below (in the car park sector). A recent incident of this nature ended up in a physical altercation and the police were called. Not really the kind of attention we would want in what is already a finely balanced relationship between different groups and the local council/Police.
Please be sensitive to the needs of other recreational users and refrain from taking matters into your own hands if you see or experience any irresponsible or dangerous behaviour by non-climbers. Just call the police and let them deal with it.
Of course if you see irresponsible or dangerous behaviour by other climbers, please step in and tell them nicely. They may not thank you but too bad!