UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

45m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the blunt rib left of Act Naturally past three chopped bolts. Two pegs may help guide you up and right towards the upper hanging arete. Step right over the roof and clip the bolt. Up past the next two bolts to the top - bolt belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start just left of Act Naturaly, climb the blunt rib/arete, past the first bolt, (not there at the mo), until you get to the first peg of Antiquity. shared climbing with antiquity until passing its second peg then climb up and right towards the upper hanging arete, passing a bolt or two. climb direct over the small roof, and mantle towards the next bolt,(crux), and keep going straight up past two more bolts to a top out and double bolt belay.brilliant positions,and good climbing!
p.s. if you avoid the roof by going iether left or right, you don`t get the full tick!

first bolt has been removed for some reason unbeknown to me, as the start does not have any shared climbing with `antiquity`! you can however start as for `antiquity`, untill i put another bolt back in

Chris Davies and Phil Targettt 01/Oct/2009.

Ticklists

George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
neal 29 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Are both the first 2 bolts mentioned in the guide still there? Pretty bold first part.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Are both the first 2 bolts mentioned in the guide still there? Pretty bold first part.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
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Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hardd

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Carreg Hyll-Drem)

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