July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
A slabby line. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Trend right up slabby rock.
Slate Sport , Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c , Summertime Travels 2022
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Tall Gecko Hands | 22 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Can start far left or below the first bolt using the waterfall foothold. At the crux slab, it is possible to fridge-hug after finding a marginal foot hold by running the right foot blind down the groove behind. Or maybe you want to smear the smooth slate (only possible when dry and putting more weight in the hands). However, it's easier to use the feet on holds around the left crack and raise the hands little by little. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Can start far left or below the first bolt using the waterfall foothold. At the crux slab, it is possible to fridge-hug after finding a marginal foot hold by running the right foot blind down the groove behind. Or maybe you want to smear the smooth slate (only possible when dry and putting more weight in the hands). However, it's easier to use the feet on holds around the left crack and raise the hands little by little. |
||||
Katie Knight | 16 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thomas the Tank? More like Thomas the Wank! Was climbing this for a wee confidence boost after shitting myself on a 6a, and found myself even more up sh!t creek with this wee fuc*er. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Thomas the Tank? More like Thomas the Wank! Was climbing this for a wee confidence boost after shitting myself on a 6a, and found myself even more up sh!t creek with this wee fuc*er. |
||||
AlanRowe | 16 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Horrible crux, pretty scary and tough for a 4a | ||
Show beta
βeta: Horrible crux, pretty scary and tough for a 4a |
||||
davypaul123 | 27 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard for the grade. Deceptively so. Scary crux. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Hard for the grade. Deceptively so. Scary crux. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents