Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
An eliminate that offers some fine sustained climbing tempered by a lack of protection. Follow the blank looking area of rock between the cracks of Ben and Marion. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The thin crack between Ben and Marion. (Interestingly, Brown and Wilcox had this graded HVS 5a in Pete O'Sullivan's Devon's New Climbs in 1980.)
M Brown & A Wilcox 1978.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alwaysinjured | 27 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Leave your soft slab padding shoes behind for this technical beauty - solid HVS 5a on small gear | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Leave your soft slab padding shoes behind for this technical beauty - solid HVS 5a on small gear |
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| LoneDeranger | 16 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Moves become very thin on marginal micro gear at half-height. It's possible to bail left or right, but the eliminate line is harder and scarier than VS - maybe HVS 5a+ | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Moves become very thin on marginal micro gear at half-height. It's possible to bail left or right, but the eliminate line is harder and scarier than VS - maybe HVS 5a+ |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Last Exit to Torquay
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)