Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
Rockfax Description
Take the finger crack until at the second bolt, step right and climb easier ground to the top © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This follows the thin finger crack left of Ought’nt Be.
From the raised ledge pull up into the start of the finger crack using an obvious block.
Make a careful step out right above the second bolt runner then proceed more easily up and right to a double bolt abseil station.
Better and much harder (F6a) is the direct start up the adjacent thin seam.
Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones, Cathal Connern 25/Jun/2014.
Ticklists
4 - 5 Grade Climbs at Ban-Y-Gor Area , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K
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