UKC

275m. The easiest of the major Nevis ridges (after ledge route) but still makes a very fine mountaineering expedition. Beware of avalanches from the castle area above, otherwise it is possible in most conditions. Traverse right onto the ridge from below the castle gullies and scramble up it via easy walls and slabs. At the steepening, climb a steep groove to a ledge and then traverse right in a spectacular position. From a niche, a very exposed chimney on good flakey holds leads to a ledge and belay. Another steep pitch leads to an easing in the ridge, and easier ground leads to the top.
In good conditions an excellent descent is to ascend to the north summit of Carn Dearg and descend ledge route. If descending via the halfway Lochan, traverse the hillside west from the top of the ridge for 300m to avoid the north face of Carn Dearg.

Collie JN, Naismith WW, Thomson G, Traverse M 12/Apr/1895.

Ticklists

Ben Nevis Ridges , Winter Aspirations , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , Snow and Ice , Winter 20-21 Ticklist , Wishlist 2021/22

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User Date Notes
DJF 25 Feb Show βeta
βeta: To help with route finding- There is an in-situ nut and peg just before you turn the corner for the crux. There is also an in situ yellow cam in the crux. So when you see these, you're going the right way.
Show beta
βeta: To help with route finding- There is an in-situ nut and peg just before you turn the corner for the crux. There is also an in situ yellow cam in the crux. So when you see these, you're going the right way.

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High IV
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Mid III
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High II/III
Mid II/III
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Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
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Route of Interest
Left Twin

Grade: III 4 ***
(Aonach Mor)

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