UKC

Climbs 236
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 17m a.s.l
Faces E

View Stats

The Upper Tier at Benllech © Sl@te Head

Crag features

A great place to get away from the crowds and enjoy a beautiful coastline and seaside atmosphere. Sport climbers seeking grade 6's will enjoy route after route here, particularly on the Upper Tier where there are 17 of them in a row! There's also a smattering of trad from VS to E3.

There is now a good selection of bouldering available mainly in the f6a to f7c grades (with a few exceptions either side) and with generally speaking good landings. Most areas are not effected by tides unless it is a high spring tide combined with strong winds. 

Approach notes

Turn off the A55 at junction 8 (just after the Britannia Bridge) and follow signs fro Amlwch and Benllech (A5025). Parking is available opposite the attractive main beach.

No Access Issues

There are some nesting Guls in the area, check your routes before setting off. 

 

Evening parking is free along the beach front parking. 

Anglers zawn is pretty fun for DWS. It can be climbed anywhere at 6a-b and it’s much better like that than sport or trad!
George_Surf - 07/Jul/23
Unfortunately I have to agree with the previous comment. Upper Angler's approach is impossibly overgrown with brambles and roses, for the first time I can remember I gave up and headed for the beach. That was after a lot of confusion finding the crag in the first place. Angler's Zawn was surrounded by water an hour before low tide so we gave that up too. The quarry is quite good though but overall a disappointing trip.
caradoc - 11/Sep/15
The place is a total bag! An hour after leaving the car park and after a certain amount of �coasteering� (the access descriptions in the North Wales Limestone guide are not exactly clear and helpful) we eventually found ourselves under Anglers Upper and that was as far as we could get as we hadn�t brought a machete or a flame thrower. The routes as far as we could see looked little frequented. We did manage to find a quicker way out (at the expense of one wet foot) but should you ever think of going to Benllech either go to the beach or go fishing!
roger whetton - 20/Jul/15
Rope now in place again on standard approach (19/10/2014). The crag is accessible at all states of the tide by the alternative approach mentioned in the new N Wales Limestone guide although this approach is very overgrown. Continue on the cliff-top path past the standard approach until a big tree is seen on the R half way down a steep earth bank with a bracken clad shelf below. If you reach a pair of seats you have gone too far. Go down past the tree to the shelf. Head R and gain a gully at the R end of the shelf (looking out). Descend the gully keeping L in the lower reaches then head R over boulders until below the crag. A rough track through the bushes leads to the foot of Sportingly Pocketed. The routes R of Cracking Sport are hard to access because of brambles which get even worse R of "Liberty, Equality...".
harold walmsley - 19/Oct/14
Upper Tier definitely not accessible at all tide states. Arrived hour after high tide still couldn't get across. Rope on the slimy step has gone too. Lower tier looks good will head back soon at low tide!
Stopsy - 01/Mar/14
We climbed here yesterday May 10th. 'The Whispers' is NOT E1, and NOT HVS either. We felt that perhaps it was a soft VS 4b or 4c. The protection is good and can always be placed from a comfortable position, and there are so many fine handholds that it hardly matters that the footholds are tiny for one move.
Andy Hemsted - 11/May/13
Tried to access this crag on 29th March 2013. It was high tide and there was no access from the bottom however it looks like at low tide you can walk to the base. Also from where we were looking we couldn't see any bolts.
lissymanners - 30/Mar/13
It's all about the Upper Tier, better quality Rock and Routes + Non Tidal!
Sl@te Head - 01/May/10
Well, the grades are all over the place,matching sunshine and the tides is unlikely,the top is covered in rubbish, beer cans, broken glass,bits of a wrecked car, etc. The lower third of the routes on the lower section are covered in barnacles because they are under water for a large part of the day and Craig Gogarth is much more accessible than Benllech. I climbed at Benllech yesterday -can't imagine going back.
zukator - 28/Apr/10
I cant understand why this place is not getting any traffic. It has really good routes and is in a stunning location. There is no better sports climbing venue on the island. Dont take my word for it. Just go there and see for yourselves.
string arms - 26/Oct/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Sl@te Head and string arms

Loading Notifications...