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Rockfax Description
Wonderful positions, combined with superb rock and climbing mark out this long sea-level traverse as one of the coastlines best deep water solo's (S1). As described here, the vast majority of the climbing is above deep water and the crux is very low. It is not possible to describe the route in great detail, so easily-definable sections are used.
The Great Cave to the Pink Block.
From the ledges in the Great Cave, traverse rightwards, then cross a tricky corner. Drop down, then gradually rise, to drop down again onto the colourful 'Rainbow' wall. Traverse this wall on good, but spaced pockets, then drop down and strenuously exit the wall for a low resting-position under the Pink Block.
The Pink Block to the Crystal Cave.
From the Pink Block, continue along, and a little up, to pass under a large white block. Steady climbing gains the very deep Crystal Cave and a good rest.
The Crystal Cave (Crux-pitch).
Move out of the Crystal Cave to a blank wall beyond. Climb across this, first up and then gradually head downwards, to a series of big sloping holds. From the final sloping hold, stretch for a hidden finger-jug, and use it to gain the resting corner to the right. Climb the technical corner up to the upper ledges.
The Crux-pitch to the Cod Tympani Buttress.
If climbing the route as a DWS, it is recommended to escape from the cliff for this next section, then go back down the line indicated. This avoids the original (S3) traverse, which, although good, finishes over a jutting reef below the boulder-choke in the big corner. Exit the crux-pitch easily to the cliff top, then walk along the hillside to gain the top of the easy downclimb to reach sea level once more.
Cod Tympani Buttress to The Wave.
Traverse easily under the roof of Cod Tympani Buttress, to reach the start of The Wave - a diagonal feature of textured strata, that soars diagonally rightwards. Either climb this strenuously, or stay low and take on the technical traverse, staying close to the sea.
The Wave to the Terminal Zawn.
Steady traversing leads to the entrance of Terminal Zawn. Traverse rightwards into the zawn to gain the hanging back wall. The final moves to gain the big white finishing ledge are slightly unsafe being above a ledge not water; use discretion here, a short swim would not be too frowned upon! © Rockfax

FA. Andy McFarlane, Deryck Ball 10.1973 (8pts)
FFA. Nick White 9.1991 (entire traverse) 15/Oct/1973.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Extreme Girdle, Devon DWS progression, World Class Britain & Ireland, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, The Art of the Granite Crab

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User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished

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Route of Interest

Milky Way

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Lundy)