Climbs 74
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 107m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Rory crushing © dan23584

Crag features

South west facing limestone roof. Please read access details below, particulary where you are allowed to park. Thank you.

Approach notes

Only between and including: 1st May - September 30th



Leave the tarmac road, go PAST the entrance to Doward Park Campsite Private Carpark (please DO NOT park here), drive down the gravel lane approx 150 metres and park in the FREE Public Parking area (approx. 20+ spaces) located BEFORE the GREEN BARRIER for Biblins Campsite (Driving past the green barrier could stop ambulances from reaching Biblins Campsite which is very bad!)

Walk downhill past a low green barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and the cave will be on the left.


Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.


1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.

2. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.

3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator (James Squire) immediately.

4. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.

5. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.

6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc.

No Access Issues

Access is only permitted from May - September.

Natural England have worked with climbers to develop a set of guidelines which allow access to this bouldering area. It is essential that the guidelines are followed, otherwise access could be banned again as it has been in the past.

  • Bouldering only - no gear, bolts, or top roping.
  • Do not remove any vegetation no matter how minimal. This is a nature conservation site and a SSSI which is home to some very rare plants.
  • Access is permitted from May - September only each year due to hibernating bats.
  • Stick to the paths (see aproach details below), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. 
  • Stick to the cave area and walls either side - this is the only area where climbing is permitted. Do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.
  • Follow the BMC's Bouldering Sense guidelines 
Yes! Sorry for the delay.
Beastly Squirrel - 31/May/15
is it open yet?
peaches69 - 05/May/15
Still banned until further notice!
Beastly Squirrel - 03/May/15
Is the ban lifted yet?
peaches69 - 03/May/15
Had a corking few sessions here now. Roll on next May. It's fab having a decent crimpy cave to play in all summer! The only problem is that I've got to try to remember my beta for all the problems I've been working but not done.
Joyce - 01/Oct/14
I noticed 2 bats at the back of the cave today so the crag is being banned 2 days early. Hope this doesn't effect anyone's plans. Please don't climb here until it is unbanned (possibly next may). Thanks everyone for an awesome season.
Beastly Squirrel - 28/Sep/14
People have been bivvying and probably lighting fires in the cave for donkeys years.
The Pylon King - 04/Sep/14
Thanks AMorris for letting me know. I am 99% certain it was not a climber with the strict access restrictions. I have heard that people from the campsite have walked up to the cave a light a fire previously. I will contact campsite to ask if this can stop. If this was a climber and you're reading this then please don't do this again as it is a very sensitive area, cheers, James.
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Sep/14
someone has built a fire under the mouth of the cave, resulting in a large ash pile (as if the place needed more dust) and a soot blackened wall. Although there is no indication that it was climbers, it is likely to have been, which given the restrictions on the cave seems like a pretty silly idea. We want to keep this place open for climbing for the foreseeable future and I can't imagine building fires is going to help us keep landowners on side... use your brain guys...
AMorris - 31/Aug/14
Thanks James
brices - 22/Aug/14
1st May - 30th September.
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Aug/14
Can you confirm the access agreement is it till the beginning or end of September. Cheers
brices - 17/Aug/14
Thanks for being so appreciative guys. Just one thing to say is that no one should be driving past the green barrier. Park in Doward campsite and walk to crag past green barrier, please don't drive down to Biblins campsite as there was one very polite man who reported a car getting in the way of children's camping as they didn't read access notes attached. Happy climbing.
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Aug/14
Agree with Joyce, nice one James, can't have been easy getting access sorted, great location with plenty of potential for more! If only I could boulder 8b that line looks amazing!
tombeasley - 19/May/14
James, thanks for sorting the access to this crag and bringing it to our attention. I visited for the first time today and loved it. Very excited about going back!
Joyce - 18/May/14
I'm gunna try and get one made soon but a bit busy atm.
Beastly Squirrel - 08/May/14
Any one have a topo?
EliC - 08/May/14
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